70z4fun

Very good, super helpful. I will go take another look Thanks Bob

Went out an looked at the radiator today. I do not see any holes in the side to put the link into for the clip? IS there a slot or two holes holding that clip in? Thanks Bob

Cool, That is helpful, looks like I could make something like that...........

Just had my Radiator done on my 240z, and got it all back together, and attached the overflow tube that goes on the driver side of the radiator. I recall there being two clips down the side before it went to the radiator shop. Called them and they said they didn't need to remove them and checked to see if they were "laying around" in the back. No luck. So, am I confused? Is there two clips on the early radiator for the overflow tube? IF so, can someone let me know. Also a picture would be great in case I need to reinvent them or if anyone knows where I can find some. Any help is appreciated Thanks Bob

The old balancer is OLD and has cracked rubber on it, but seems fine. Thought I would pull it and have it either "serviced" or see if it's ok. I have one of the SFi Harmonic Balancer in the shop, so thought I would give that a try.......for the time being........

Well, Got the word on the radiator, small leak and needs the bracket welded up. Flows well and does not need to have the core replaced. So to get it right, about $400, which is a bit higher than I want, but they do good work. Asked about putting a new core in it, $1400....... IF it was a show car, I would think about, but $400 seem acceptable since I drive it and keep it original makes sense, instead of getting an aftermarket radiator......... Now to decide if I should replace the Harmonic Balancer and crank seal before I stick it back together........ Maybe next time I will put a new core in it,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I will be much older then.............

Thanks for the information. Yes, many years ago I recored my radiator in California to a 4 row core. That was most likely back in the 80's. Then I had a leak fixed about 20 years ago,,,,,,, now waiting to see the cost of repair at the radiator shop. For those that have had theirs recored, what was the cost? Pictures for reference.......

Hope your week is going well. I just noticed a bit of "weeping" at the fins on the engine side of my radiator.. Local club guys are suggesting an aluminum radiator, but I like the stock look. The current radiator is a four row, with the original tanks and the little guard on top. I have had this one rebuilt a couple times, so was thinking of just taking back to the same radiator shop and have them go through it. A few guys here were telling me that you can't keep rebuilding an old radiator..... Wanted to see if others have had issues with redoing a radiator that is over 50 years old?

In my pile of parts, I had a spare series 1 oil sender unit, so I switched them out. Took me longer to search through my spares than to switch it out. It was a good excuse to do an oil change too..........

Went out and pulled the oil pump again and after numerous attempts, I got it right, Took it for a drive and it is WAY better. Freely revs up to 5500 and would go more. I did get three "coughs" along the way, which I am hoping is old gas,,,,, but overall, much happier. I thought maybe my oil pan gasket was leaking under the oil filter, but the bottom of my oil pressure sender was wet, so I bet the sender is leaking...... Need to get the book out.......... Thanks for the help and encouragement.....

This is super helpful ;-) The sad thing is, I have the book and didn't even look...... Dumbhead........ I now think I am off, the screwdriver check photo makes me think I am off,,,,,, Will be getting the oil pump out again........... Thanks for posting this......

Ok, will check how the vacuum advance works as it revs up. How much change is there in the look of the 11:25 if the distributor drive is off by one tooth? I was thinking of dropping the oil pump and hold the distributor drive from above with some hemostats and try moving it back on tooth, the install the oil pump, but then the oil pump markings won't match the drive gear.......Is there a "trick" to turning the oil pump as you insert it into the front cover? I assume that the car will run when you are off by one or two gear teeth?

not sure I checked that. Are you asking what the advance is with the vacuum disconnected at 2500 - 3000 rpm? I can hook up the timing light and rev it up.......

Well. it seems to run better, need to check a few things, as it feels flat after 5K RPM. Wondering if I went too far on "one tooth"? No back fire, no hesitation, much happier........ IF the distributor drive is off by on tooth, will it drive this well? The rotor seems to be at the right position on the cap, but the "11:25" looking into the hole in the distributor mounts looks more like 11:30........ I am happier, but not sure it's perfect. Was able to set timing at 10degrees before TDC, but could not advance it much further with the 10mm lock down bolt.

Thanks for the responses. Went through the basics today, compression test, carb balance, mixture settings. I went through all the timing marks and alignment. I did end up putting the car on a lift and dropping the oil pump and rechecking the alignment marks. Last time I worked on this part of the car, I didn't have a lift and crawled under and had the sway bar in the way. I might have been adjusting distributor to compensate for a distributor drive being in the wrong place..........I kinda looks like it was off by one "tooth". I think the the distributor rotor looks like it's in a better spot. I will test drive it tomorrow .........

Hope your week is going well. I have a Series 1 240z with an L28 and dual SU carbs.. I have had this car since 1979 and it was my daily driver for many years. Now it barely gets used, sad but true. Recently it has been cutting out really bad under load, back fire out the exhaust ( kinda think I see black smoke) and is real annoying. I was thinking it just had built up carbon from moving it around the shop with the choke on. I have had some nice dives with it, but it keeps going back to this sad running condition. Things that have been done in the last 1000 miles: Valve Adjust Sync Carbs New Plugs, Rebuilt Distributor ( tried my spare too) Just running out of ideas, so I thought I would ask for advice.... I was thinking old ethanol free gas..... so I might test the fuel........ Any suggestions is appreciated

Thanks for the information, I did order the plastic bushings, new pin and clip. I already have OEM inner and outer boots. Our local Nissan dealer went away a few years ago, and the closest one is about two hours away, so I have to use the internet for Nissan stuff. Should be all back together by the end of the week.......

Now I see why there is a flat side on the shifter pin....... No sign of the "old" bushings....... Now I have to wait for the new ones.........

I will also go look in the boot, maybe they migrated.......

Great question, that is grease on the ears, need to get some q tips to dig deep to see what that stuff is..... could be left overs from the plastic bushings that have been smashed to dust after all these years....... Car has been driven a bunch since I swapped the transmission. It was over 40 years ago, so I don't remember putting new ones in or what I did....... I totally forgot that those bushing were in there until a "google search" on this forum.......

Well, That was pretty easy to take apart. First thing I noticed is both boots are ripped, so those are done. I don't see any evidence of a plastic bushing on the side of the pins. The plastic bushing at the end of the shifter is still there, and seems hard to take off? I guess I need to order some parts, I did see a set of parts at Z Car Depot. I think I will just get the OEM plastic ones vs the brass........ I also noticed that the pin was "keyed" with a flat side of the head,,,,, Not sure why.... I could not believe how much play there was after I removed the boots.....

Ok, hard to explain the “feeling” but it’s not the same as it was……… The car is a series one 240z with an L28 and a 280z five speed transmission, I have had the car since 1979, did the swap back in the 80’s,,,,,,, I even did the famous bend the shifter to fit the tunnel without cutting the floor. So, in 2026 the shifter does not feel right. It goes into all the gears ok, but not in a straight pattern……kinda off to the side. Getting ready to pull the center console out and check things out, but thought I would get some advice on what to look for? Any advice is appreciated……

So, the interesting thing about the timing is, I spent the afternoon putting about 100 miles on the car in a spirited drive up into the mountains on a two lane road to one of my favorite lakes. Then home. A few hours later, went to go get a pizza close to home and "snap"...... then saw temperature gauge go up. Pulled over and had my girl friend come pick me up ( so we could go get the pizza) and came back to the car and installed a belt and drive it home. Might take off the belt just to make sure the water pump is not an issue with a wobble.........

I have attached a few quick pictures, you can see the "clean" break in the old belt..... I did check my alternator pulley to see if there was a difference, but the belt sits in about the same on both alternators. Both of them are from Motorsport, just one was way older l-)

First time ever I had a fan belt "pop" on my '71 240 with a L28. No smog pump, just the three hubs, engine, alternator and water pump......... I have had this car since 1979........ Interesting that I replaced the alternator recently ( 280ZX with internal regulator) and used a Nissan original fan belt....... Don't remember if it was brand new or I just used the old one...... But after it broke, I noticed it says "made in the USA"..... that was a surprise. Have any of you seen a belt break cleanly before? I have seen them shred, but just break..... Had a spare, so no big deal. Just wondering if I should get a different belt or is using a Nissan belt the way to go? Maybe these Nissan belts are just old sitting in some warehouse somewhere,,,,,,,,,