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"So honey , I bought another Z today" instant response ," you've got to be fu@£NIH kidding me " anyone else have this conversation-lol Anyway, didn't see this one coming but it's landed in my lap. # 4858 , 5/70 build date. Still not even to my house yet and I've spent a total of 15 minutes looking at it. Too many unknowns to answer anything specific , but it's definetly fixable . Actually in pretty decent shape- respective of its age. Update this when I get it home .

https://petrolicious.com/articles/road-tripping-home-across-europe-in-a-datsun-280z

Sad ending for Cameron in his rac up Mt Washington... https://www.autogids.be/autonieuws/video/triest-lot-voor-een-datsun-240z.html

Ok 930 I got in on this a little late. I too am an aspiring engineer so I get where you are coming from and like most others am quite a bit older than 16. 1st the metalwork, Harbor Freight sells an affordable sandblaster since you did disassemble about 60% of the car and it's not too late to do the job all the way. 2nd kudos to you for even buying this car considering the spaghetti bowl that wiring harness looked to be. 3rd you probably won't end up keeping this car due in part because of your age and if you turn out to be a successful engineer you will be making enough money to go out and but the latest iteration of the 911 or 458. So it may seem like site users are being overly critical because we plan to KEEP our cars. Most of us probably don't use them daily but they can be used daily which is why you may have gotten some unexpected feedback on your fuel cell. 3rd, here's my take on the fuel cell, I wouldn't go that route because it holds less fuel and it raises the C/G (center of gravity). Raising the C/G can alter the handling characteristics of the car which could put you in a dangerous situation under spirited driving conditions or even normal driving conditions depending on road surface conditions. No one here wants to see anyone get hurt or worse. It is your car do what you want with it. Experiment, that's what engineers do, try out new concepts and ideas. You are beginning with a relatively light (weight) platform. It is very easy to try and reinvent the wheel so to speak and overpower these cars and most of us have seen it done before with not so great results. Just remember, racing is meant for racetracks not public roads so decide for yourself if you want a racer or a machine you can drive everyday if you choose to and look damned cool while doing so. Judging by the posts to your build most just can't seem to figure your rationale with certain mods. When I saw the harness I couldn't see your rationale for even buying the thing but I'm sure many thought that about me when I bought my 1970. Carry on young man but read, read, read. Invest in a sandblaster. You will be glad you did. Much faster than abrasive disks and wire wheels and much more thourough also. GOOD LUCK!

Thanks! It was indeed a long process. Before I flip the car onto its shoes, I will probably put a good coat of hard wax on the clearcoat. Buff it up and that will be it. I don't expect to see a lot of the bottom of the car in the future. It was my practice paint area.

I still think a compression test will highlight or rule out a multitude of potential issues, but if that doesn't come up with anything, then I've got one WAG based on past experience. Let me tell you a story... I once had a car that ran rich for several reasons. The bowl level was a little high (because I was too lazy to fix it), the jets were a size larger than stock (because I was a kid), and the accelerator pump linkage was a little too touchy and set off a burst of gas with too small of a pedal movement (because I wasn't smart enough to figure out how to fix it). Also, when I would park the car hot, it would percolate some fuel from the carbs and bubble a little over into the intake manifold. During the hot summer months, every now and again it would make this big "whoosh" sound while cranking, and it would let out a big cloud of whitish smoke, and it would then smoke for a couple minutes until everything seemed to settle back out to normal. Looking , back, I believe what was going on was that through the rich running and the percolation, I was mixing unburned gasoline in with my oil in the crankcase. This would actually create a volatile gaseous mix of air inside the crankcase, and if it reached the right mix of air to fuel, would spontaneously burn off as I was cranking the engine. And after an "event", it took a couple minutes to burn off the residue that got burped (vurped) into areas where it didn't belong (like into the crankcase ventilation system). Like I said... WAG, but my question would be: What does your oil smell like, and when was the last time you changed it?

That looks awesome, JLPurcell! Though I have to agree with the others, ride safe, man. It's good to ramp up the speed once in a while, but what's even better is doing so and living to tell the tale.

Another reason to watch Archer. This is one of my current favorites.

Yea us!

Good price for what looks to be a pretty solid Series II (HLS30-43310) project car for only a $2,800.00 asking price with a low-rust body for the most part except for the battery tray area. Looks like the original paint color is 905 Monte Carlo Red which is a great color that you don't see very often. Here's the link: https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/cto/d/datsun/6221670467.html

Hi Kats, Thank you for the sketch and video showing the taper collar spinning independently of the rest of the nut. And your English is not the problem. The problem is me overstepping my understanding and making assumptions about how something is put together without ever examining one in person. Thank you for your patience. I do not believe the retaining feature that holds the collar in place is a separate piece. I still believe there are just to pieces to the assembly. I do not see any seam where the face of the shoulder meets the shank. Looking at the picture you posted here, that face appears to be integral with the center portion of the nut: With that in mind, I suspect they forged the metal outward slightly to deform the shank a small amount and therefore retain the collar. They may have machined a thin section of material to ease this process. There appears as if there could be a jagged burr edge of extruded material visible on the silver plated nut on the right. I do not see the same burr on the yellow plated nut on the right, but it could just be better processing on that part. It would only take a small amount of material interference to prevent that collar from slipping off. In application, all the force would be in the direction to press the collar towards the hex portion and away from the retaining feature. It seems the retaining feature really only needs to be strong enough to keep the collars from falling off during shipping and handling, and while rattling around in a toolbox. Some other less likely ideas... 1) They undercut the shank a tiny amount and heated the collar (and maybe chilled the nut) and then slipped the two parts together while they were at very different temperatures. Once at the same temperature, the parts would be held together. 2) One other wild idea is that there are retaining pins inside the nut body that were forced outward before the threading operation. Would you like for me to make one or two to test some of the ideas above?

Another topic, I drove my Z432 1500 miles from June to July, two times round trip from my home to Tokyo. I visited Mr. Fukuda, he is a doctor, surgeon. His 1973 Z432 is the second from the last, PS30-100007 . Like other S30 series, it has a new style floors , bigger master vac, associated pedal location, new transmission member , radiator support has a rubber seal , etc . Mr.Fukuda is my hero, he has no compromise for everything, 100% stock. You see the non stock spark plug wires, horn brackets but he has several sets of new originals ! Runs like a new car. Kats

And Mr.Yamamoto (shop owner who is selling my spare S20 engine) showed a 240ZG with Kameari twin idler gear . Sounds awesome, like a S20 ! Kats

Hi Alan, thank you so much , you wrote what I wanted to say. I am stupid I thought my English was OK for everyone.Embarrassed ! I made some video for this, you can see the nut is spinning. Kats

Dead cat bounce, Dead cat bounce bounce or which Z site has the most traffic?

If by "non-locking" you mean the same thing: It's simply a 60 degree tapered collar that is crimped (lightly) to the shank of the nut, allowing it to spin freely and independently of the nut. That 60 degree taper sits on a matching 60 degree taper in the wheel, allowing the nut to tighten up onto the wheel stud and spin on the flat side of the collar. It accurately centres the (stud centric) wheel on the wheel studs, and saves the nut from galling the wheel. Simple. It's a fancy washer, in essence. Small Fords of the 1970s had a similar design (although 1.5 pitch) and RS Watanabe's in-house nuts do too.