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Well I kind of jumped ahead in my excitement, but the job's done! So to recapping the last of it, I decided to glue down about 3/4 of the cover to the wheel: all of the back part where the finger dents are, the outer edge and the spokes. I left the inside section where the stitches were run un-glued so I would have the ability to move things around a little bit if needed. That seemed to work pretty well. The accent stitch was the easiest part of the whole job. I'm happy everything came out mostly uniform. One miss: I didn't realize it when I marked the holes, but I ended up one stitch short on the left side of the middle spoke and it threw off the look. I punched some holes and put another one in there, and unless you look for it specifically, it blends in well. Last job is to clean up the spokes. I trimmed each one to length and glued them in place, then cinched the ends down with a double loop of black thread to finish it off. It was a lot of work, but considering it's my first time, I don't think I could have done a much better job. Still have to drive it, but I'm super pleased with the end result. Final pictures: Got an idea for the horn pad, too...

I picked up this car recently and a friend is interested in buying it. My gf thinks that I should sell it since I have a couple, we'll a few, OK several projects in the garage. There's no engine or trans. It has all the usual SCCA ITS stuff: coil overs, tokicos, big sway bars, strut bar, adj TC rods, Sunpro gauges, adj brake bias, fuel cell, Holley electric pump, full cage, etc. I also have SCCA logbooks and a title. There's very little rust. There are no cracks in the dash. I'm not sure what I want to do with it but thought that I'd get some opinions on value. Chuck

Certainly don't want you to go to the trouble of coming up with any race results or statistics to back up your claims. Heaven forfend... But I'm still not clear as to which cars you are referring to? In reference to the lines I bolded above, you seem to be saying that S30-series Zs were raced in *stock specification* against modified Porsches? Where and when, please? I think it's nonsense. Porsche simply out-homologated the likes of Nissan during the period that the S30-series Z was current. They created cars like the aforementioned models (911S, 911T/R, 911R, 911S/T, 911RS 2.7 Carrera, 911 RSR 2.8, 911 RS 3.0, 911 RSR 3.0 Carrera) which could be purchased from a showroom and either driven on the road and/or on the race track, with factory support in readily available data and homologated, race legal competition parts. Nissan were not even trying to compete with that. It simply was not on their radar. They took inspiration from the 911R for the 432R (two cars of which you'll find no more enthusiastic fan than me) but the 432R was an exercise in domestic race homologation for JAF sanctioned events and it was never intended for export. Nissan didn't bother with FIA homologation for the 432 or 432R, their most sporting showroom-stock models of S30-series Z. I have been "following and examining the performance of various cars" from the late 1960s until now. In a previous post I mentioned that I was present at Le Mans as an 8-year old kid in June 1970 when Porsche took their first outright win at the event with the 917. I watched a Porsche 914/6 win the 2 litre GT class and a Porsche 911S win the 2.5 litre GT class in the same race. It made a big impression on me. I think I'm pretty well informed about the S30-series Z's race history (yes, including quite a lot of those pesky statistics) so I'm all ears if you can tell me something new. What have you got?

I went to AutoZone and had the alternator tested and the voltage regulator is bad. It appears that this may be a cheaper fix than I expected. Thanks for all y'alls help.

The first 240 I bought I was hypnotized by the 240 itch and paid too much for it. Lucky I kept it long enough to get my money back but that's my lesson learned, don't jump on one too quick there's plenty to be had for a good price. Use searchtempest.com I think it is, for all of craigslist listings.

Mostly boring work and little to show. Detail work on the inner fenders and engine bay. Sanding down the DTM 2K and prepping for seam sealer and primer sealant. And a couple of quarter shots for reference later.

So as you might have figured out I am kind of STOKED about this. This happened pretty smoothly all things considered. I committed myself after selling the Mikunis, which forced me to make this happen or not be able to drive my car this season. I also had major home improvement projects going on , including building a Z shop behind my house. The ignition side of this install I have been using for a year or so and it's been very stable and tunable. This fuel part included a lot more changes because of fuel pressure requirements needed converting from my carbed car. So far no leaks and very quiet fuel pump has worked great. The beauty of this is the options for tuning you can never achieve with carbs. I drive my car everyday and every chance I get - so being able to get in and turn the key to a well running sports car to run to the store or a cruise is awesome. I have lost nothing in regards to the driving experience compared to when it was carbed with the Mikunis. I never had the induction noise experience since I ran a CAI, not sure if I would have heard it with my exhaust anyway, so nothing lost there. Admittling the view under the hood is not as classic or pretty as the triples, but OER makes FI triples!!! I do miss the punch of the accel pumps of the triples, but I'll get this dialed the same eventually. When I get to the point where I'm feeling confident on tuning I will take her to the dyno. Since I bumped CR, I hope to see a little gain . Right now with very little tuning and conservative timing it already feels as strong as before . I want to thank Richard- chicken man- for helping me out getting a baseline tune going on this. As usual , the Datsunguys are a class act . These big projects can get discouraging and frustrating , but hearing it light off for the first time after all the work makes it worth while. Richard got on line with me and I was tuning at 11pm that night in the garage. I was in the dog house after that with the Mrs. since I stunk up the house with exhaust fumes , but I cooked dinner the next night and all was good. The next morning after Richard put a tune on my car I drove it on its maiden voyage to C&C . It drove pretty damn well too! No looking back to carbs again- for my car anyway Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Personally I don't see the problem in the ball joints ( after all I am still using the old " worn out " ones ), or the entire linkage, but just with the carbs. Mine where done by Ztherapy, so not sure what they did ? Found this on their website: Reman Carb Body 69-72 ½ 240Z 3 or 4 Screw w/ZT Roller Shafts (pair) . But there's no friction in the linkage ever since, and the gas pedal goes so light....it's better than a new car. ( I have to note it is sensitive on bumpy roads, but I anticipate on that by backing my foot off) So I guess the shafts in both carbs ( Original state ) cause to much friction in the whole linkage.. ?

I agree. As well there is a heck of a lot of adjustment in the linkage. On some cars I repaired with loose linkage, I shortened rods and re-threaded to allow the nylon sockets to screw further in. A few important steps for adjustment that may be missed: 0. As Zup says, clean and lubricate all joints. 1. Do not use the fast idle setting screw as a stop (this screw is only used for tuning). 2. Adjust all rods to take up slack (shorten and cut new threads if needed) 3. Adjust maximum-throw stop and lock nut behind gas pedal 4. Make sure choke wires are not holding jets down at idle. A bit of slack is needed.

Not a weenie! Very fast vintage car and driver.

That has been my experience. I've read about all sorts of solutions from cutting and repositioning the arm on the throttle lever at the firewall, to bending the linkage rods, to giving up and installing cable linkage. The engineers knew what they were doing---it is not a flawed design. I fought with the sticky throttle, but when ALL of the linkage was cleaned thoroughly and adjusted to the Factory Manual specifications it works smoothly without sticking or binding and is very responsive with a light feel at all speeds.

They're already piping in motor sounds through surround sound. Next it'll be exhaust fumes through the air vents. 8^)

I don't remember any "artist's concept" leaks of what the original Z would look like - it just kind of showed up in final form at the big car shows and in the enthusiast magazines around the time it hit the dealerships. But, that was a different time. New models cloaked beneath car covers arrived at dealerships and were hidden from the public until the official Fall model year introduction date. Then, there would be a BIG reveal with newspaper ads and coffee and pastries at the dealership. As a kid, I remember going to the warehouse where the local Pontiac dealer stashed the new cars and trying to see them through the blacked out windows. A security guy came out and let my friend and I in to look at the cars - better than Disneyland. New car/model year introductions were a bigger deal in those days. No previews of the XKE, T-Bird, Stingray, or Avanti before it was time. I think that was far more exciting than how it's done now with new models showing up throughout the year. Yes, I'm sounding old. Must be time to go chase some kids off my yard. Dennis

I like the lines of the other car much better, more like an early Z...