Jump to content
Remove Ads

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/18/2017 in Posts

  1. I work with modern fibre optic submarine cables and enjoy researching the early telegraph cables (as much as I enjoy Z's... so those who know me understand the extent ). I was recently perusing historical Nissan publications and came across this 1962 document: The footer contains an interesting reference: Cable Address "NISMO" Tokyo. NISMO was the shortened address (International Identifier for the Telegraph Office) used by NISsan MOtor corporation to receive telegraphs. The short form allowed for the sender to use fewer characters in the telegraph/teletype message to reduce costs. If you research the telegraph messaging techniques, compressing words and acronyms were from well formed and standardized methods used long before the similar ad hoc usage in texting. "Cable" comes from Submarine Telegraph Cable which was used to describe the messaging system used for ~100 years prior to 1962 for international telecommunications. In 1962 International telephone calls were quite rare. The first telephone cable across the Pacific was COMPAC in 1963 that could only carry 80 calls simultaneously. So NISMO was first used in Telecoms before Motorsports. Now you know the complete story
  2. Leave it. Cars are always worth the most in original preservation condition. A few decades back, I had an auto trans 280Z and it was much faster on an autocross course than my 4 speed. If this is truly an unmolested car and you want a manual transmission, flip it and move on. Now if the car had been all modified? Rock on. About 20 years back I had an Abarth exhaust I had purchased and put on a Z I had. When I sold it, the guy asked for the original exhaust so I switched it out for him. I then put it up for sale. As it happened, the guy that responded lived 2 miles from my house. I told him I'd help install it just to get to know another local Z guy. When I got to his house and he opened the garage, I saw a pristine '70 240Z. I checked the VIN and it was a first 50 car. I told the guy, I'm sorry, I can't sell you this exhaust. He looked a little shocked until I told him what he had. His wife had purchased it new and driven it until she got sick and passed. It was something like 130K miles and preservation condition. We took it up to Midas and they welded a little patch over the tiny hole in his muffler that was making noise. I was deployed when he sold it, Or it would be shined up and covered in my garage right now. So, general rule is, modify the modified and preserve the preserved. Nissan isn't making any more of them!
  3. The BHJ damper is MUCH cheaper if bought through Rebello. I realise this seems counter-intuitive, but I think BHJ very much prefers for people to buy through their resellers, so they jack up the prices when selling directly. I believe Rebello sells that damper for something in the region of $375. Nice piece!
  4. Good to see you too, Zedyone! May the torque be with you! :-D I appreciate the well wishes. Our lives are pretty chaotic right now, but everything is working out mostly good. We're starting to see some light at the end of a few tunnels.
  5. 1 point
    got the heater plumbing done yesterday, and the exhaust system arrived.
  6. I'd install the 5-speed and SAVE and LABEL EVERYTHING that is removed in the swap. Easy for the next owner to put it back to orig if that is their goal. I'm betting that the next owner will leave the 5-speed in and he or she will have the seed (auto. spare parts) to start the ever growing stash of parts that goes with owning a Z.
  7. Personally, I would leave it as is. I have both AT and 4 speed Series 1 Z's, and the AT is a blast to drive. If you do convert it, I would at least save the removed pieces if you have the room.
  8. Hey Chas! Yes, you and I both know. My partner's situation is currently good, but her needs/wants/desires are my first priority. If the Miata is what gives her joy, that gives me joy too. I appreciate your kind words. Yes, I do care very much about my Z, and everything I've done is with an eye towards the car's longevity (e.g. my obsessive use of stainless hardware, soldered wiring, contact grease, etc. I've also largely avoided making new screw holes. For instance, my HEI ignition module is mounted where the old distributor pickup junction block was located, and the junction block is lovingly stored in a box, along with the old ignition module, which works, but not well. When I look back to the time when I owned my first 280Z, in the 1980's, I'm a tiny bit disturbed that I threw out a lot of somewhat worn parts that I would have loved to have back today!
  9. It's the 20th through the 24th of June. You can find out a lot more about the event as well as register at the following site: zcon.org Hope to see you and your Z in Austin this summer. Mike.
  10. A little less 70's but still Nissan and old...
  11. I'm in Ocean Springs. There are a few more Z cars down here, but I have not seen them on this board.
  12. I completely agree with you on sellers' claims. Back in the old days before the internet, I drove all over the damn place looking at cars that were billed as rust-free or close to it. They must have been soaking in the ocean between the phone calls and my arrival at their houses because more often than not, the cars were complete crap that were nothing more than parts cars. Uggghhhh. At least these days we can request close-up photos before we go look at cars.
  13. Jeff, I was at one time looking for an '82/83 ZX NA, because of it being Z-like (same drive train, sort of) and having a T-top to satisfy my partner's yearning for a convertible. I traveled quite a bit looking at these cars and gave up. The reason was that all the "rust free" cars I went to see had penetrating rust bubbles in difficult places (e.g. the leading edge of the roof, and the non-removable vent cowl area). One fellow even had me drive across 2 states to have me see his rust heap that was barely running ("runs great"). When I pointed to the very obvious rust bubbles peppering the roof, he shrugged and said, "yeah, rust bubbles." PISSED ME OFF -- because I asked him several times whether there were any rust bubbles in that very area, and he repeatedly insisted, "no." So there's some advantage to local, IMO. You can run yourself ragged looking for a good Z in far-off lands, only to come away empty handed or buying something less than you expected expect. Of course if you enjoy the thrill of the hunt, then none of this applies. ;-) As far as market value for a 280Z... Well, I've looked at completed auctions (at least the ones that actually sold) on eBay, and I'm shocked at some of what I see. I see a lot of bodies that need as much work as mine, with ratty interiors and "runs good" engines selling in the $6k range, and my car is much better than that. That's where I have to admit I'm out of touch, hence my question here. My "feeling" is that $6200 would be fair in a flat market, but I'm seeing signs the market hasn't been flat.
  14. You may consider selling the Z and Miata to get an S2000. A nice compromise.
  15. I thought I'd seen most every configuration of the L series engine. I was wrong, and that includes the garden hose. The PO must have done some serious drugs when attempting this.
  16. I'm biting my tongue really hard right now.
  17. Staying with the Panasports was the right choice also LOVING the side stripes with my NOS badging!
  18. Come to Zconn in Austin this summer. Not that far away!
  19. Google frustration taken out at the wrong time. I apologize Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile
  20. That's tough to answer. Hmmm...I'd say converting it to manual lowers the value since it's no longer original. If you're changing it to a manual you might as well make it a 5-speed. Auto is worth less than a manual. If you're trying to flip the car then just fist the rust on the wheel arch and put on some new seat upholstery. The car look pretty good for the most part. Chuck
  21. I want to thank you all very much I have just solved the issue with the fuel pump the right way! I followed your instructions and got everything hooked up right. Now my fuel pump doesn't seem to be doing the best so I'm gonna try to clean it out again or just have to get a new one..
Remove Ads

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.