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I know some one posted this up in a thread a while back but I can't find it. Went and got it yesterday. 20+ hours round trip I am thinking parts car at this point. Not a special year and lots of rust

The manual says the needle shoulder should be flush with the bottom face of the piston, not pushed up so that the shoulder is even with the bottom of the groove. I'm no carb expert, but here's some other stuff to consider: The round top nozzle adjusting nuts are M10 x 1.0. This results in .0394 inches drop for each turn. 2.5 turns down is .098 down the needle and at that location along the needle you're running between station 1 and station 2. This means that at 2.5 turns down, the SM needles will idle and no load leaner than stock. It's not until about six turns down that the SM's turn the corner and start running richer than stock. So if you're getting a transition lean pop from no pedal to much pedal, it might be because you're running lean at no load when you're high on the needle. Pushing the needle up so the shoulder is even with the bottom of the groove is about the same thing as turning the nozzle another turn down so that would help. I don't know where you would be on the needle at light cruise, but you might be leaner than stock there as well. Here's a chart I whipped up that illustrates the difference between the N-27 and the SM needles:

From Fred Puhn's book, 'How to Make Your Car Handle': "Many elusive twitches and wiggles can be blamed on bump steer, and often it is the cause of high-speed stability problems [Hello, 240-Z!]... Try really hard for zero bump steer at the front. A car with bump steer in the front suspension will be unpredictable in a turn and unstable during braking. The car is very sensitive to toe-in changes. With bump steer, toe changes can happen with every dip in the road or when you hit the brakes. Both toe-in and toe-out errors give terrible handling and should be avoided in the front suspension". The basic goal: On each side of the car, keep the tie rod parallel with the lower suspension arm throughout the arm's full travel (or, if not, at least for all but the last inch of droop and/or compression). Bump steer's evil twin is something called Roll Steer. It's the same thing, but experienced during cornering. From a design point of view, you still want zero roll steer and bump steer at the front. Roll steer seems to be of greatest interest at the rear. For cars with IRS, the goal is to use roll steer to encourage understeer when the roll angle becomes extreme. To relieve bump steer at the front of the car, one solution is to raise or lower the steering rack (which changes the angle of the tie rods). In your case, though, this has become a problem rather than a solution, so you need to work with the other fixes to try to un-do the result. One of the alternative fixes consists of bump-steer spacers. You've tried these and experienced a positive (but incomplete) result. Maybe you could fab additional spacers using your new/old lathe? Another fix is precisely the type of spherical rod-end tie rod set-up that Chas has illustrated. Puhn says, "This allows shims to be used between the steering arm and the tie rod end for small bump-steer adjustments. Large changes cannot be made this way, but it is a good way of getting an extremely precise small adjustment." Hmmm. Maybe not enough to solve your situation? Interestingly, Puhn's book talks about yet another technique for alleviating bump steer and uses a Datsun 510 to illustrate the point. It consists of bending the steering arms. Puhn cautions that this is a job best left to specialists because: 1) you may crack the arm casting if you heat/bend incorrectly, and; 2) the arms will need to be crack-checked and then heat treated afterwards. I wonder if a less painful way for reaching your final goal would be to use a suspension geometry algorithm (I guess they're called 'apps' now) to investigate different combinations and settings before you actually do any more tweaking/cutting/welding/bending (and purchasing). There's got to be an on-line, free-for-use app on a racers' site somewhere. Maybe one of the other CZCC members can help out with this so that you don't have to go searching (and if you find one, please let the rest of us know so that we can play with it too ). Among other things, it would be interesting to see whether the stock Nissan set-up really does achieve zero bump steer over the full suspension travel (unless somebody else has already investigated this?)

Oil laden air from the valve cover got sucked through the AAR and gummed it up. The hot bimetal element and an electrical short may have also presented a fire hazard if not fires. Note that the original hose from the VC to the AAR has a wire brush-thingy stuck in it (Flame Arrestor). Have a look!

I guess it was too big of a tweak- . Backfiring happens during tip in under load at lower rpm. Might need to play with timing a little. Not running a vacuum advance at present since this dizzy is a d6-12 with 24!degrees mechanical advance . At present running 12 static . I'll be back at it today Sent from my iPhone using Classic Zcar Club

Amazing price and car looks like 1/3 the value... easy flip http://monterey.craigslist.org/bar/5736457548.html

I don't know when they changed but my low vin door hinges did not have an indention to keep the door from fully opening.You have to push the doors past the notch to fully open the doors. Ronnie