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The door glass is not the same over all 8 years of production. 77-78 glass is quite different in how it mounts to the frame that connects to the regulator arms and is thus not interchangable with other years. The glass mount frame is also different for 74-76 but the glass is the same 70-76. The two short "C" channels where the regulator arms rollers run are positioned differently in the 74-76 frames than earlier ones. You will have problems with arms falling off the frame if you mix regulators and glass frames. Even the door mounted guide channel at the front changed for 74-76. The 74-76 regulators are different too as they have a wider offset where they mount to the door. I assume they were "improving" the glass fit and function and moving the regulator inboard 1/4" and tweeking the various guide channels made it work better. Then they gave up and totally changed the glass mechanism for 77-78. That stuff works fantastic. Thanks for the overall advice about glass polishing. I have a polish kit coming. Time to freshen up some old glass!

I read this out loud. The glare I got from across the room was priceless. "You're not getting any more cars until we move" ... which doesn't mean never!!

I bought a 73 240z one time and put it in the backyard. It took her a month to notice it...

Michael Good @mgood has a green (#240 I believe) '76. He might be able to offer some help.

In my experience, if its oil causing the problem, 1st and 2nd will let you know earlier than 3rd or 4th. Odd that you have trouble with 3rd and 4th. Its generally 2nd and 3rd or 1st and 2nd, but 4th tends to last the longest. Does it select the gears when you are standing sill and clutch disengaged? Could have been rebuild long ago and someone replace 1st and 2nd synchros and now 3rd and 4th are worn out. The synchros are the same as all the 71 transmissions. You can use the ones in the 71C 1st through to 4th. The bearings are different though. The Nissan p/n: is 32604-P0100 Bearings are different from the 71B. I have an old SKF catalog that lists the bearings for these transmissions. Ill see what I can find and post it later.

The pump parts can get stuck after stopping. It's essentially a set of roller bearings in a cage. Some rust, wear, or debris can jam it, then a tap can break it free. A mechanical problem, not electrical.

I have the same issue with my Z. It was re-sprayed over its original 907 'Racing Green' (not my favourite colour, BTW) with a darker green metallic. Like yours, my paint has a visible, fine metallic content and shows a bluish tint under certain light conditions. The colour used on our cars might be either the '303 Green Metallic' that was offered for 1974-75, or the '240 Green Metallic' replaced it in 1976. There appear to have been four different paints used on the Z that carried the name, 'Green Metallic'... 113 - 1972-73 - Green Metallic - aka 'Avocado' 302 - 1974-?? - Leaf Green Metallic 303 - 1974-75 - Green Metallic 240 - 1976-?? - Green Metallic I can see my/your paint being described as 'Dark Green Metallic' so as to distinguish it from #113 and #302 (which are definitely not dark), and maybe also to distinguish #240 from #303. Maybe someone who has a car with the original 303 or 240 paint can comment.

Late last fall, I had some discretionary cash and purchased a front Wilwood brake upgrade kit from Silvermine. Also a 15/16" master cylinder upgrade to compensate for the larger calipers. I knew I had an issue with a slightly warped rotor which was my main reason leading to the front brake refresh. The install went relatively smoothly, replaced the wheel bearings & races with Timken's while I was in there, and refreshed the hubs. Tried to modify & retain the original dust shields, but they interfere with the new, larger vented rotors so will have to get some new ones made up from aluminum or stainless as I don't like running without them on a street driven car. Two issues I ran into with this kit were .... Silvermine states you use the stock caliper bolts to mount the machined adapters - you cannot. The stock bolts are too long by 9mm and the non-threaded part of the bolt would prevent you from tightening the bolt to the adapter & spindle ears. To Silvermine's credit, I called Edan & he offered to send me some replacement bolts if I could give him the measurements. I opted to source them from Fastnal. The correct bolt is M12 x 1.25 x 30mm grade 10.9 (part number 11114852) The stock bolts are 39mm in length and even if you could thread them in all the way, they would contact the Wilwood calipers. The stock lock washers work fine with the new bolts. The supplied bolts for the caliper to bracket are of course fine. The second problem was centering the calipers on the rotors. In my case the inboard pad was tight against the rotor & a measurment showed centering to be about .030" off. (I could not turn the rotors with everything tightened to spec) No shim provision is included in the kit. Rather than roasting the new rotors on one side, I decided to center the calipers. Shimming can be done to either the caliper ears & bracket or the spindle ears & bracket depending on which direction is needed to center the caliper. I aquired some thin SS washers and installed them on the caliper ears and both sides were correctly centered. Bled the brakes, checked for leaks, and enjoyed the firm pedal, smooth stopping power, and extra bling of the new brakes. I did this about 12 days ago and after 150 miles, all is well. A nice upgrade. Stock vs Required bolt Caliper adapters installed with correct bolt Centering caliper (don't drink that Coors light, it was an empty to hold waste bleed fluid)

I got you beat. Mine is just printed backwards……….

Oh lord! Dolly, Dolly Dolly! I'm hot for her body, I mean boobies.

If you make it to 500 Cliff, I guarantee you can pick up your award in Branson on the 4th of June ...

With too much beer, my inability to walk straight does not mean I don't desire to walk straight...

486!

Sorry I did mention it was a 204Z but the VIN is HLS30-08996 August of 1970 Build date. So almost could be a 1970. I'll go with the "oldest Auto on the road in the US" if I ever sell it and dare someone to prove it isn't! Speaking of 510's here is my family's window sticker for our 510 wagon. It was a 1971 purchased June 30, 1971. Car I learned to drive with and would get another if I had a chance but would have to be orange!