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Eiji does such great motors. I don't know why anyone would go anywhere else for their engine builds.

using a piston stop and a degree wheel will get you dead nuts. do a google search for printable degree wheels - print one out to the diameter of your crank pulley/harmonic dampener (cut out a hole in the middle so you can access the crank pulley bolt to turn the crank w/a socket). if you don't have a piston stop and don't want to buy one for $5 at any auto parts store, make one out of an old plug (pull the ceramic, use a long bolt/nut that will stick into the cylinder) put it in the #1 plug hole & pull the other plugs. turn the crank all the way ccw till #1 hits the stop (gently), then tape the paper degree wheel onto your your pulley so the timing pointer points to 0 degrees on the paper degree wheel. turn the pulley cw till #1 hits the stop in the other direction and mark that spot on the paper degree wheel. TDC is exactly halfway between 0 and the mark you just made. divide the number of degrees on your second mark by 2 and turn the crank till the pointer is there and voila - TDC. this method is 100% accurate and it doesn't matter what size your degree wheel is. it doesn't matter where the pointer is. it doesn't matter how long the piston stop is. it doesn't matter if your pulley is on upside down. just find the halfway point between the two stops (wherever they land) and you are at TDC.

Or Red Green and his duct tape emporium at the Possum Lodge....

My first mental image was Monty Python-Lumberjacks! I must be getting old.

+1 I seem to miss posts because there are some many ebay posts. They seem to be one posts. What I mean by that is someone posts the thread, but there is no further discussion. Maybe they can be blocked from the unresd content, but you can still see them in the forum, ebay section.

i'm sure this reply is past the date of necessity, but i've had a good experience with atlas. had a bicycle frame plated nearly 10 years ago, it was considerably thicker plating than the chrome applied to other pieces of the bike that were made overseas. today there's noticeable rust on the foreign chrome, none on the atlas plated parts. pricing was decent(for the time) and their turnaround was less than 3 weeks door to door at a time when i was quoted 16 weeks locally(austin).

All: Thanks for the comments. I managed to shoot two coats of etching primer last night after work. This will help with flaw detection before switching to a high build primer. I also picked my engine up from Eiji last Saturday. Freaking awesome!

They can be popped back on in about 5 seconds with a large screwdriver. Make sure the lash pad is still in place and turned in line with the rocker and then slide the screwdriver under the cam and place the tip of the screwdriver on top of the spring cap. Now, simply pry up on the handle and put the rocker back in position. One more thing... Be sure to rotate the engine if the cam lobe is pointing down. If it's horizontal or facing up, you'll be fine and can install the rocker as-is. Clearly, there is an underlying problem. Rockers come off when they are way out of adjustment or when the springs are shot and the valves float. Be sure to solve the problem before running the car again.