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I can relate Cliff--- Merry Christmas to all from Mr. Tavish!!

Ospho, or some of the other phosphoric acid solutions should work for that. I came back before priming and seam sealed all of the joints I could get to

As an FYI to anyone reading this thread, Motorsport Auto now offers a rebuild kit for the S30's brake proportioning valve...

I think you're going to need a shovel for Christmas……plus, I think males are more easy going than females, just my experience. Now you have a riding buddy when driving your Z's!

I've really put some hard miles some Automatic trannies with Autocross cars and Trailering. Two golden rules with Auto Transmissions. They like clean oil and they like cool oil. Change the ATF ASAP and the filter!!! Burnt ATF can destroy an Auto Tranny. It oxidizes and loses lubrication ability when over heated. Slight burnt smell and brownish tinge is a Red Flag. Black and stinking is too late!! Excess heat ( Towing, Competition or poor maintenance ) just kills regular ATF, and when your oil fails your Transmission fails as well. The factory oil coolers are seldom adequate. I always add a fairly large Hayden or Trans-Cool auxiliary cooler in front of the Radiator. That really extends the life of an Auto. PS Pumps also benefit from a small auxiliary cooler if you Autocross or Track day. Synthetic fluids can withstand a lot more heat before they break down. I use nothing but Synthetic fluid in any Auto Transmission, street or competition. Synthetic ATF has saved me a couple of transmissions that had been incorrectly assembled by " Professional " shops. I've since learned to build my own Auto Trannies for competition and they always get Synthetic now. Amsoil ATF ( available in GM Dexron formulation as well as Ford Mercon ) is VERY good. Not cheap. But really good stuff. It's worth the extra cost in the long run. Even on a used tranny.

Beautiful new kid on the block! Yes, they do take a lot of time at first. But that also is the bonding period for you two, a special time. Enjoy!!! Jai

Butt weld would make the job a lot harder and prone to mistakes of over cutting. It also makes welding more of a challenge. No one will see it, so I would go the easiest route and lap weld. It's easier to secure in place for welding also. I plug welded my floors in place holding everything together with clecos. Then I welded seams .

After removing the big plug nut on the end, the part you circled is a snug fit and should fall out with a couple of firm taps on a block of wood. Mine wasn't being very friendly and I used a little heat (hot air gun) on the aluminium to help it. Don't heat it too much, just enough so you can still hold it with your hands. The aluminium expands enough at that temperature to help it come free. It will be full of gunk and sludge and that will be holding the sliding piston so it won't come out easily. Leaving it soak in some brake cleaner over night would also help loosen it up. I used a piece of rubber sheet to clamped it in a bench vice and block to (rear brake) two ports and brake switch port. The switch port needed an extra layer of rubber because there is a little height difference. It came out with a little air pressure on the front two ports. Since you have been experiencing problems with the brake witch, you might not get it out so easily. My next step, if the air didn't work, was going to be a zerk fittng and the grease gun to push it out. Here are some extra phots. Hope that helps you.

A ladies mind can be a scary place best avoided if at all possible...

It's been a while, but updates from the damage repair are slowly coming in from the paint shop. Meanwhile working getting " the stang " back together..

Ordered a stage 3 cam kit from msa. Also bought 2 280zx engines and transmissions! Good day but also an expensive day.