13 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

 Can this be found at Home Depot? 

Yes, I believe that's where I got it

I was kind of kidding.  Didn't know that it was a thing.  An odd name for a product, must be from way back.

https://www.iqsdirectory.com/articles/wire-rope/aircraft-cable.html

https://www.homedepot.com/p/KingChain-1-8-in-x-50-ft-Galvanized-Aircraft-Cable-Kit-with-Clips-and-Thimbles-7x19-Construction-504711/304086908

Edited February 8Feb 8 by Zed Head

I worked in aviation for 12 years and I have never see that on any kind of aircraft lol, Now, safety wire.  Thats on nearly ever nut and bolt.  It comes in different thickness and has very high tensile strength

https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/pnpages/05-02687.php?utm_source=google&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping&utm_term=05-02687&gQT=1

Mix a quart of ATF with a quart of acetone in a spray bottle for penetrating fluid. Works great and is a lot cheaper than PB Blaster.

 

 

1 hour ago, nowak1981 said:

I worked in aviation for 12 years and I have never see that on any kind of aircraft lol, Now, safety wire.  Thats on nearly ever nut and bolt.  It comes in different thickness and has very high tensile strength

Old planes 🙂

The 1st thing you should do is take the valve cover off and drench the cam with oil. You put ATF in the spark plug holes. Once you get all the moving parts oiled up put a socket on the the cam gear and slowly turn it clockwise looking from the radiator. Leave the plugs out and turn it a little everyday. 

Start cleaning stuff. There's a bunch of places spider webs can be a pain. The AFM sweeper arm and the TPS contacts are especially important. Open the air cleaner box and look for acorns and other critter $^!# they hide. 

6 hours ago, nowak1981 said:

I worked in aviation for 12 years and I have never see that on any kind of aircraft

And let me guess... You've never seen Aircraft paint remover either:
 

Buy a FSM hard copy off EBay or download the one here on this site and study it from one end to the other. The EFI section is what’s going to be your biggest challenge. Have fun! It’s a journey and well worth it.

got me some shiny new tools, looking forward to some warmer weather!

Take good care of that head if it’s really a MN head . Like said - a compression test would show pretty stout numbers with any combo involving a Maxima head . CC’s are about 39 which should show 180-200 psi compression check . I’ll also say the Maxima head would be about better than anything  you could pit on that engine . But it also would be a challenge for stock EFI to keep up with the compression - not even talking ignition timing issues also . 
 

Wow! Look how time flies! Its been a while since my last post. Things have been busy. I wasn't happy with my work space. Since I am at an apartment complex my garage was facing the apartments and I dont want to bother people with any noise that I make. I finally managed to switch to a garage on the back side of the lot that's a lot more appropriate. Right after I switched I went back to Montana for the summer and I just got back a few weeks ago.

I got to use my shiny new bore scope to check out the cylinders and I'm pretty happy with it so far. You tell me.

Here are some highlights.

I started with cylinder 6. The one valve I could see had no carbon buildup on the top of the valve and this was the worse rust I could find so far.

This is cylinder 5. Cross hatch is perfect.

Cylinder 4 was at the top of the stroke, nothing much to see

This is cylinder 3, not looking to great, but at least there is oil.

Cylinder 2 was clean and 1 was clean with a few small specs of rust.

I managed to snake my way down the oil cap and took some pics

Obviously in the radiator. This was the fluid level when I got the car. I cant complain too much.

That was as far as I got today.

I think my plan next is to figure out a way to spritz the cylinders with some fluid and rotate the engine by hand. I don't want to dump a bunch of fluid in there, I highly doubt it is seized.

I would think the motor oil you're using squirted down the spark plugs holes would be good and take the valve cover off add soak the cam and valve train. Then turn it slowly clockwise from the the front and notice any hang ups or anything but smoothe rotation over and over. Leave the plugs out and use the starter but don't crank too long, short burst as to not burn the starter up. You will need a battery charger and don't rush the process, feel the starter and if it gets too hot to touch call it a day.

The coolant should be all the way up to the top of the radiator fill hole. Let it run until you see the coolant flowing. I would add some water to your coolant, it looks to be straight antifreeze. That's not bad but 50/50 is what most people do.