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Time to replace the rear suspension bushings in the 260Z


SteveJ

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So far things are working out in the disassembly. I had one end link on the sway bar that didn't want to cooperate, and I was rounding the nut. I figured it was a great time to break out the induction heater. I heated up the end link a couple of times, getting it cherry red, put a smaller socket on the impact gun, and spun off the stubborn nut with ease. 

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The rubber in the bushing was smoking a lot, and I wondered if it was going to ignite. On the other hand, the torch would have almost definitely ignited the bushing. I am happy with the induction heater so far and would suggest someone working on a bunch of rusty bolts should consider getting one.

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The inner bushings are off. They definitely show 48+ years of wear. @Captain Obvious, I can see how the distortion could lend itself to letting the toe change. I'll put the inner bushings together and check on the spindle pins. So far, aside from the one end link on the sway bar, everything has been cooperating.

If the new poly bushings don't fix the toe problem, I'm going to try the eccentric bushings from MSA.

 

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With the end link nuts being stubborn, I had a couple of more opportunities to use the induction heater. On the first top nut, I got the end link hot enough that the bushing caught on fire. For the other end link, I thought it would be a good opportunity to shoot a demonstration video. If you're not familiar with the induction heater bolt removers, I have a positive impression so far.

 

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19 hours ago, Jeff G 78 said:

Those inners look worse than the last three sets I've swapped out.  Mine were all the original shapes, but just old looking.

Me too. I mean, I've only done two sets, but the old used ones I took out looked good enough that I think they could be re-used if really necessary.

Steve's look hammered! 

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The 3rd owner of the car said he thought my car might have over 300K miles on it. It has either 250K miles or 350K miles on the chassis, and I wouldn't be shocked if those were the original bushings. 

I'll have the tires on soon, and I can check the toe again. 

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I tried to post from my phone, but apparently it didn't go through.

I backed the car out of the garage. It was only about 15 feet, but with the step between the driveway and the garage, I think it was enough to get the car to settle.

Fortunately I still had the tape marks on the straight edge from a while back. The tires are new, but the width shouldn't differ too much. I put the straight edge up against the tires. Yes, @Captain Obvious, I know that isn't the right spot, but it is consistent with my prior measurements. The new bushings made a significant difference. The straight edge isn't exactly in the same place relative to the car as before, but this still gives a good idea of the improvement.

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So you have like three quarters of an inch less toe just by changing the inner bushings? Am I interpreting that right? If so... Wow.

Can you take some more pics of the bushings you took out. Shadows in the pic you posted above are making it look like there's some real weird stuff going on with them. Might just be light, or might help explain what was going on?

And lastly... You did remember to leave the big bushing bolts loose until the suspension was loaded, didn't you?   :ph34r:

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30 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

So you have like three quarters of an inch less toe just by changing the inner bushings? Am I interpreting that right? If so... Wow.

Can you take some more pics of the bushings you took out. Shadows in the pic you posted above are making it look like there's some real weird stuff going on with them. Might just be light, or might help explain what was going on?

And lastly... You did remember to leave the big bushing bolts loose until the suspension was loaded, didn't you?   :ph34r:

I tossed the old bushings, but they were pretty distorted.

No, I didn't remember to leave the big bushing bolts loose until the suspension was loaded. I guess I need to put the car back up in the air the morning, loosen the bolts and load the suspension.

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You don't have to unload the suspension when you loosen those bolts. In theory, you can leave it on the ground and loosen them. The inner rubber of the bushing should spin to it's neutral point once the bolt head is loose.

Of course, this assumes you can actually fit enough of yourself under there to loosen and re-tighten those bolts with the car on the ground. I don't remember exactly what I did... It think it may have involved rolly dollies on wheels.

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