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Sanden Compressor Upgrade Completion


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This has been on my to do list for a very long time.  Thanks for the time,  effort and info you put into this.  It will certainly make mine easier when I get to it.

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10 hours ago, gwri8 said:

This has been on my to do list for a very long time.  Thanks for the time,  effort and info you put into this.  It will certainly make mine easier when I get to it.

You're most welcome Greg.  In the meantime, keep your eye out for a zx alloy compressor bracket.  Easier to modify and far lighter that the cast iron version.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Nice work. I use a sanden 709. Just an FYI. Your drier is backwards. The word “In” is on the sight glass and is pointing towards the firewall. Should be pointing towards the condenser discharge line. If you have 42 degree air on a hot day, and no leaks might just leave it be though. Good luck.  

Edited by Powerglide1956
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  • 1 month later...

Thank you!    A quick rough measurement shows about 2 1/2 inches of clearance to the frame rail.  I originally tried to clock the compressor fillings 90 degrees  toward the frame rail, but the bigger discharge fitting was just too close to the rail for comfort.

In other A/C related news, I recently completed about 1700 miles of driving to Zcon & back with the A/C system running and it performed flawlessly.  Very happy about that, and even with the A/C running some of the trip, I managed around 29 mpg on the fuel.

(Had to drive behind Zup's silver 240 some of the time so he wouldn't see my sweater & gloves on.)  :ph34r:

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Thanks for that info.  I'm Installing a Vintage Air Mini into my '72 and just completed the cabin connections today using E-Z-Clip fittings and a JEGS bulkhead for the A/C lines.  As member qz16 noted when he did the same install a few years ago, making those interior connections is a royal PITA.  But now they're done.

I'm using the generic Vintage Air brackets for mounting the Sanden compressor to the block so I have some cutting and welding to do.  Already cut and drilled a piece of 1/4" steel plate that will get bolted to the block and am now trying to determine how much to cut off the back of the brackets so that the compressor has its fittings in the optimum, almost-upright configuration and yet have enough travel left in the slotted portion of the brackets to easily change belts if and when needed.

My problem is that the engine is not in the car so I need to do some mock-ups to make sure the fit is correct.  I plan to document the dimensions and cuts so future Sanden installers will have an easier time of it.

Edited by Seppi72
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  • 2 months later...
On 7/17/2021 at 7:22 AM, S30Driver said:

My system was already converted to r134a by Nissan years ago

Did they replace the under the dash stuff at that time? Or its still the original evap components under the dash and just replacement condenser, compressor, dryer, and hoses? 

And are you on an OE condenser? Or a more modern PF unit. Trying to figure out the best unit for my upgrade next year. 

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All the components were replaced with oem at that time.  Including the evaporator.   Over the years, the compressor developed a seal leak (had to recharge once a year)  which motivated me to upgrade to the Sandon and new air dryer of course.

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