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Engine Timing Cover


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Yes, you will have to adjust the timing once you get the new chain on. Did you get a sprocket with the kit (should have). Some kits have the timing notch on the back of the sprocket and some do not. Guys on this forum have recently figured out which company’s do and do not. It’s not a big deal but it helps if later you want to adjust timing as the engine chain stretches. There are 3 different positions to put the new sprocket on. Assuming your head has never been shaved, position 1 with a new chain is the starting point. I’s make sure the engine is a TDC before you remove anything and that way you have a point of reference.
Like Zed Head said . You set the shiny link next to the 1 on the sprocket. Be aware some chains don’t have a 2 shiny links so you have to count links. I believe it’s 21 links between but don’t quote me on that. Let’s cross that bridge when your kit arrives. I put an OSK on mine.
You see below the 2 different sprocket. First one has 3 small cut outs on the edge of the bezel .
Last pic is what your looking at for TDC.
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yes, the kit on its way includes the gears, chain, tensioner, gasket, and guides. Not sure which gear it comes with. will post when i get it in. thanks

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Good. I was thinking that some of the timing kits do not come with the guides, and I would certainly take the opportunity to replace the guides if you're doing everything else.

Man that tensioner is really hanging out there. Looks like you were on the hairy edge of that thing popping out of there completely while the engine was running. Hope the new timing set takes care of all that.

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Posted (edited)

Sorry. One more thought about the timing chain and the tensioner sticking out...

So the 240 slack side guide (the curved side) has a slotted hole at the top and two holes at the bottom. You have your guide with the bottom bolt going through the inboard of the two holes. I know this because I can see part of the outboard hole poking out from under the bolt head.

But a pic here from @siteunseen, he has his lower bolt through the outboard hole. This effectively pushes the guide further in and tightens the chain:
240 stye3.jpg

While putting in a whole new timing set is rarely a bad idea... What are the chances that the majority of the slack in your chain is due to an improperly installed slack side guide?

I'm more of a 280 guy and the 280 guide is a little different. Just one hole that the bottom so no decision making on which hole to use.

Edited by Captain Obvious
Added some detail
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That shoe has been chewed.  The chain might be riding on the metal piston.  This is probably what BarefootDan's looked like before the chain jumped the sprocket and let his valves meet the pistons.

image.png

image.png

 

image.png

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  • 4 months later...

Guys can you confirm one thing please. The crankshaft oil thrower...should the key be flat allowing the throwing to easily slide off or should it be put in at a slight angle to the thrower stays on no matter its position?

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On 4/1/2021 at 9:12 PM, Captain Obvious said:

 

thanks. I think i have mine all back on properly. The tensioner is on right but chain was so tight already not sure it was needed. When the motor is running and the chain moving wont it "scrape" up against the tensioner? i guess that is normal though...just would think it would tear pieces of the tensioner off

IMG_2523.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I don't remember doing the key any paticular way just flat side goes up. And my timing chain was so tight I thought the same thing, too tight but that was about 4 years ago and everything is fine. Motor spins up really quick. Plus I put my brand new timing kit on a new rebuild at hole #3 the last one for chain stretch so that made it extra tight. That worried me for about a year but it never broke or caused any problems just advanced the mechanical timing 8 degrees I think? gave it more bottom end but with the 5 speed I put in there it has plenty of top end too.

Your tensioner does have that rubber/plastic washer between the plunger and the body right? I think I can see it.

From Zed's post above...

image.png

Edited by siteunseen
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Gotya. Before rebuild the key was at an angle where the thrower would NOT come off without removing the key. On page 1 or 2 of this thread i saw someone image where key was completely flat. I did mine like that and the thrower

will slide off/on. 

Here is a good image of the tensioner right before i put it. There is a black wedge of rubber on the end if thats what you mean. This is all that came in the rebuild kit for the tensioner btw. 

 

 

IMG_2524.jpg

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10 hours ago, Wally said:

IMG_2523.jpg

I'm not really digging the "bump" in the chain flow in that pic. It doesn't look smooth where the chain where it steps off the tensioner and onto the slack side guide.

Could you pull the top of the slack guide out some away from the cam and then push the bottom end in a little? That might make the chain "flow" a little more smoothly from tensioner to the guide?

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14 hours ago, Wally said:

yikes. ok. will need to take a few things back off and look into that.

I know you said the chain is already tight, but I'm thinking if you loosened the top of the curved (slack side) guide, it might give you enough slack to move the bottom end in and use the other hole.

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On 8/9/2021 at 8:11 AM, siteunseen said:

Push the guide in and use the back hole here, is what I'd do.

 

 

Here is when i change to other hole as suggested. does this look better now?

IMG_2536.jpg

 

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The first one looks safer, a smoother transition to the guide.  You might catch that edge with the second setup.  That is the loose side, with the crankshaft pushing the chain off the sprocket.  It only sees the tension of the oil pressure powered tensioner, and the inertia of the moving chain.  It doesn't get pulled straight like the drive side.

In the first setup if you took your finger and pushed on that kinked link would it push inward and make a smoother curve?  That's what it's going to do when the engine is running.  Plus you'll get some wear immediately on the chain and the guides that will change things.

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Posted (edited)

i just changed it back and tried to push on it. this is about all it will do. not sure if this look better? I can push the kink toward the tensioner and it straightens out but when i let go the tensioner pushes it back to this position

 

IMG_2537.jpg

Edited by Wally
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1 hour ago, ETI4K said:

Have you bought one from them, or know anyone who has?

 

Sorry to sidetrack your thread @Wally.

yes. IIRC about 30$ shipping so about 100$ total. the casting was a bit rougher overall but it functionally I am sure it would be fine. I have video of it somewhere.

 

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3 hours ago, Wally said:

i just changed it back and tried to push on it. this is about all it will do. not sure if this look better? I can push the kink toward the tensioner and it straightens out but when i let go the tensioner pushes it back to this position

 

IMG_2537.jpg

That looks good to me. Your tensioner has full contact with the chain.

I used the outer hole and it's been good but different kits work differently. I put a ZX kit on my 2.4. It was super tight but like I said the car runs great, revs up to the moon.

Your call. Whatever you like is what you should go with. We're looking at pictures, you are with the actual motor. I don't doubt you'll be fine using either hole. Like Zed said it is the slack side. I like the full contact of the tensioner too. Sleep good tonight with whichever hole you use.

It's all good! LOL

 

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