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Engine Timing Cover


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Yes, you will have to adjust the timing once you get the new chain on. Did you get a sprocket with the kit (should have). Some kits have the timing notch on the back of the sprocket and some do not. Guys on this forum have recently figured out which company’s do and do not. It’s not a big deal but it helps if later you want to adjust timing as the engine chain stretches. There are 3 different positions to put the new sprocket on. Assuming your head has never been shaved, position 1 with a new chain is the starting point. I’s make sure the engine is a TDC before you remove anything and that way you have a point of reference.
Like Zed Head said . You set the shiny link next to the 1 on the sprocket. Be aware some chains don’t have a 2 shiny links so you have to count links. I believe it’s 21 links between but don’t quote me on that. Let’s cross that bridge when your kit arrives. I put an OSK on mine.
You see below the 2 different sprocket. First one has 3 small cut outs on the edge of the bezel .
Last pic is what your looking at for TDC.
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yes, the kit on its way includes the gears, chain, tensioner, gasket, and guides. Not sure which gear it comes with. will post when i get it in. thanks

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Good. I was thinking that some of the timing kits do not come with the guides, and I would certainly take the opportunity to replace the guides if you're doing everything else.

Man that tensioner is really hanging out there. Looks like you were on the hairy edge of that thing popping out of there completely while the engine was running. Hope the new timing set takes care of all that.

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Sorry. One more thought about the timing chain and the tensioner sticking out...

So the 240 slack side guide (the curved side) has a slotted hole at the top and two holes at the bottom. You have your guide with the bottom bolt going through the inboard of the two holes. I know this because I can see part of the outboard hole poking out from under the bolt head.

But a pic here from @siteunseen, he has his lower bolt through the outboard hole. This effectively pushes the guide further in and tightens the chain:
240 stye3.jpg

While putting in a whole new timing set is rarely a bad idea... What are the chances that the majority of the slack in your chain is due to an improperly installed slack side guide?

I'm more of a 280 guy and the 280 guide is a little different. Just one hole that the bottom so no decision making on which hole to use.

Edited by Captain Obvious
Added some detail
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That shoe has been chewed.  The chain might be riding on the metal piston.  This is probably what BarefootDan's looked like before the chain jumped the sprocket and let his valves meet the pistons.

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