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1975 280z 2+2 will not start


iscnetwork

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I was reading your post from the beginning and have a question. When you said the car wouldn't start did you mean the engine wouldn't turn over or it turns over, but will not run?

Also the relay you showed is a Bosch std 30 amp relay that is used for everything and mostly in alarm systems. If this is hooked to your start switch the PO might have tried to by pass the wiring to the  starter because the car wouldn't start. I had this problem with my 75 and have seen it on more than 5 cars over the years. look at the crude diagram I have drawn.

I currently employ this relay because it eliminates running a high current through the ignition switch that if shorts in the steering column causes all sorts of problems.

coil-wires.jpg

start relay011.jpg

Edited by zclocks
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Car turns over just fine with a screw driver from battery to solenoid.  I haven't had the chance to look at the relay discussed above yet and may not get one today either.

My yellow wire that goes to that relay or the solenoid is dead.  I probably will re-enable the 'non-factory' relay.  I do not like high amps in the ignition switch either.  Thanks very much for the 'wiring' pic & diagram.  I am trying to be real cautious so I don't fix one thing and then fry something else.

Edited by iscnetwork
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9 hours ago, iscnetwork said:

My yellow wire that goes to that relay or the solenoid is dead.  I probably will re-enable the 'non-factory' relay. 

The yellow wire would have been the wire that actuated the relay.  Not really clear how your setup ever worked, if the yellow wire does not get voltage when the key is at Start.  And the coil, or the wire to the resistor, should have voltage when the key is On.  

Find your ignition relay, by the fuse box, and see if it's been getting wet or if it's rusted/corroded..  Seems like you have a circuit broken between the ignition switch and those parts.

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I am working backward from the yellow wire that originally activated the aftermarket relay to fire the solenoid.  The interlock-relay coil shows 40 ohms, contacts are not fried. Wiring plug to it is fine. So now according to the wiring diagram the blue & blk/red wire from the ignition-interlock-unit power the coil to activate this interlock-relay.

The needle in the haystack is starting to look easy to find.

Going to pick up ignition switch so I can remove the MSD.

I am hoping the ignition-interlock-unit is actually a relay so I can test it too.

 

1975 datsun 280Z wiring shematic engine chassis.gif

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I just learned something.  I did not know that 75 still had the interlock relay, I thought it was just 74.

Here's the page from the 75 manual.  I'd check those seat switches.  It reads like you have to have your seatbelt fastened also, IF you're sitting in the seat.  Or, just reach in the window with no one in the car and start it.  Very safe, start the car in gear with no one inside.  And, there's a button you can push in an emergency.

I would just bypass that relay entirely.  What a kludge-up.  Good luck.

image.png

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There are two diagrams, both show a neutral device, either a relay or a switch.  They didn't label the diagrams though so it's not clear which is for what.  One shows an inhibitor "SWICHT" so maybe it's for the automatic.  So glad I got a 76 instead of a 75.

image.png

Edited by Zed Head
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36 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

I just learned something.  I did not know that 75 still had the interlock relay, I thought it was just 74.

Here's the page from the 75 manual.  I'd check those seat switches.  It reads like you have to have your seatbelt fastened also, IF you're sitting in the seat.  Or, just reach in the window with no one in the car and start it.  Very safe, start the car in gear with no one inside.  And, there's a button you can push in an emergency.

I would just bypass that relay entirely.  What a kludge-up.  Good luck.

 

While the seatbelt interlock was removed from the regulations, it was too late to remove it from production vehicles.

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23 minutes ago, Zed Head said:

This is probably for the manual.  "Emergency sw" is probably the button.  That might be a good area to bypass the interlock. Just jump the button circuit.

image.png

This is what I posted in the past on the seatbelt interlock relay: 

 

 

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