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Freez74

Ignition/Door key question

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My 260 came to me with two keys, one fits the ignition, and the other fits the doors.  However, neither key will lock the hatch.  I read in the owners manual that these cars are supposed to use the same key for all locks.  I can understand someone in the past may have changed the ignition lock, but why would the door key not operate the hatch?  I would like to get the hatch lock functional.  The door key fits in the hatch lock, but will not turn.  Any advice?

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Pull the hatch lock and  key  you want to use to a lock smith and have them re-key it.

 

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During the 46 years the 260's have been on the planet, most have undergone changes. When I got mine nearly 12 years ago, I pulled all the locks and had my locksmith key them all the same. The code is on the passenger door lock.  But, the suggestion above would be the easiest. Me, I prefer one key.

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Posted (edited)

I would like to have only one key also, but I mainly want to get the hatch lock working for now. I don't know how to tell if the lock is broken, or if it takes yet another key. I took both of the Nissan keys to ace hardware and had them copied. The copies work fine in the doors and ignition, but still not the hatch. I guess I'll have to take the hatch lock out and take it to a locksmith.

Edited by Freez74

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Gary

i assume it is unlocked now. So does the key fit into the key hole?  Will it turn?

on my 71 vertical is locked, horizontal is un locked. If it won’t turn then the issue is with the lock mechanism and you need to re key it. I think? They can match it to your current key.  
 

locked

D8522766-9AE6-4BDC-BB0C-0F0F7765EB04.jpeg

unlocked

539BA735-B5CB-4CEB-80A1-872C14E77B13.jpeg

0D2453EF-54A6-4473-8EDD-4D6C947E1F6B.jpeg

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I had to jiggle the key in my lock and make sure that the button was fully up to get the key to turn.  All the key does is lock the button in the upright position.  Makes it impossible to press down.  I think, as I recall from my 76.  For sure though, you have to hit the right spot to get the key to turn.

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Have you checked the glove box lock? In my limited experience, I've found that the glove boxes get the least amount of use and are usually the original key pattern for the vehicle. You may find that neither the ignition key or door key work in the glove box. That would be an indication that both the door and ignition locks have been replaced, and if that's the case, I bet the glove box and hatch share a common key (that you don't have).

And not that it's a big deal, but locking the hatch doesn't make it impossible to press down. The button still presses in fine, but it misses the internal target linkage.

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18 minutes ago, Captain Obvious said:

 if that's the case, I bet the glove box and hatch share a common key (that you don't have).

And not that it's a big deal, but locking the hatch doesn't make it impossible to press down. The button still presses in fine, but it misses the internal target linkage.

But wait...the key code should be on a sticker on the inside of glove box door.  So, one more key if so.

I had a 50/50 chance on the hatch lock....  I qualified it, so I'm taking a break even.

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28 minutes ago, 7tooZ said:

@Zed head 

when I’m is locked the button goes down but doesn’t move the latch.  

That's what CO said also.  I had forgotten if it was stuck up or just inactivated.  My lock worked great, I just didn't use it much.

They key point I was trying to make was that my key action was not smooth and easy like the ignition, glove box, or doors.  It took some fiddling to get the key to turn.

And if the sticker is on the glove box door it will be a clue.

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While my locks were out I noticed the key code was stamped in the side of the lock (a security issue in the 70's?). You could check and see if yours are all the same. 

It is possible the hatch was swapped out at some point with the lock going with it. 

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The hatch is currently unlocked, and the key is horizontal.  With the hatch fully closed, no amount of wiggling or jiggling the key will allow the key slot to turn vertical.  The key DOES work the glove box lock!  (Thanks, Captain, I didn't even know there was a lock on that.)  This key must be original, it is very worn, has a faint "N" on it, and has an oval head.

So it seems the ignition lock was replaced, and has a different key.  The other key should work everything else, but won't lock the hatch.  So, I'm going to take that lock out and see what I can do with it.  I just wanted to make sure I had the right idea before doing that.  Thanks to everyone!

Edited by Freez74

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So the glove box uses the same key as the doors? If that's the case, then I would agree that it sounds like the ignition lock was replaced. Not unusual at all. The hatch though... Seems a little unusual for the hatch to be replaced before the doors are.

Maybe the hatch lock DOES use the same key as the doors and glove box. Maybe it's just all frozen corroded up inside.

Taking the hatch lock out is not complicated, and after it's out of the car, taking the hatch lock apart is not difficult. It's probably one of the easiest. I'd take it out, clean it up, and see what it looks like inside. Failing that, a locksmith would make short work of the problem.

P1010598.JPG

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Thanks for the picture!  One thing I would like to know about the hatch lock, is it supposed to have a little trap door to cover the key slot?  Mine does not, it's just an open hole to stick the key in.  Maybe water has gotten in there and corroded the lock.  I sprayed some WD40 in it yesterday, but it still doesn't work.

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Yes, it's supposed to have a little spring loaded door over the hole, but most of them have fallen apart over the years. The springs rust and it falls apart. If you're lucky, the door and pin is still there but has just fallen open (always open) so you can't see it. In other words, it's in there, but off to the side.

The little rusty nub is what's left of the door spring:
P1010630.JPG

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If you really want to go DIY I used a kit like this to rekey all the doors and glove box to a clean ignition key. 
 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vtg-Car-Keying-Kit-A-00-103-Datsun-Toyota-Subaru-Arrow-LUV-Opel-Wafer-Lock/223970367492?hash=item3425ac9804:g:8VQAAOSw6VlejJue
 

the doors are a pain in the butt because of how the cover is wrapped over the edge. 
 

edit i wrote a DIY some years ago,

https://www.specterbyte.com/lockcylinderrepair/

Edited by heyitsrama

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I gently blew some compressed air into the hatch lock opening, and sure enough, I saw the little keyhole cover flopping around.  So it's there, but the spring is broken, as Captain said.

The rekey kit looks interesting, I had no idea those were available.  It does look like a chore to do those door locks.  If I cant get this hatch lock to work, I think I'll try to buy another one, since the cover is broken and would let water in.  I would have to get a hatch lock keyed to my door locks.  I'm kind of used to having to carry two keys for one car, because I also have old GM cars, and that was typical of them.  I would definitely not want three keys for one car!

 

Thanks guys.

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The little door doesn't seal perfect. So, even if you had one, it's not like you won't be getting water in there. I mean, the less water the better, but even if the door flappy does work, it's still going to leak some.

Good luck moving forward and hoping it works out easy!

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