Blitzed

R200 Comparison

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    Hi All,

    Happy 2020! Recently acquired two Datsun R200 diffs. I'm a novice with Z the drive train configs so bear with me.

    The diffs are the same gear ratio. One has the input yoke listed below as DAT 110 and half shaft flanges on each side.

    The other has the input yoke listed as DAT 110 300ZX with no half shaft flanges. Both are round input yokes, one smaller than the other. 

    In addition to the yoke comparison below, how can I determine which Z these diff's came from, Z31 or Z32.  Serial numbers ?

    If the assumption (based on the image below) one is from a 280ZX and the other is from a 300ZX, is one diff preferred or better over the other? Reason I'm asking is only one will be completely rebuilt. Would like to spend the money on the preferred diff and keep the other for the ring set.  

    Also will acquire CV axles for the best rebuilt diff. Is one diff better for with less modifications and less money to convert to CV's ? 

    73 240Z stock rear suspension config. 

    Thanks for the advice. 

    dIFF.jpg

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    Nissan went to the short nose R200 in 1985, when they went to the rounder 300ZX body shape.  And the DAT-110-300ZX pattern shown in the picture was also used for one 280Z year, in the 1975 280Z.  The fact that the axle shafts are gone could be for several reasons. Somebody could have taken them to use in a diff that came with CV half shafts.  Look down the axle holes and see if the retainer circlips are inside.  If they are it might be a 75 diff.  If they aren't it's probably an 85 or beyond.

    They'll both work in your car but the one with the axle shafts is probably easiest to get in there.  I don't think the ring set alone is really worth much, except as garage art.

    Edited by Zed Head

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    Hi Zed Head,

    Our mind sets are the same with the diff "low budget with high value". Both are long nose carriers and appear to be the same size. I'll check for the retaining clips or clip grooves in the axle holes of the Yoke size DAT-110 300ZX.  

    R200 with the haft axle flanges installed and the DAT-110 yoke. This diff came out of a running car (240Z) with stock half shafts and stock sub axle mounts (at the wheel). Are there any bolt in options for CV axles for this set up without mods?  Or are the options limited to weld in sub flanges and other mods to install? Easy is not always cheaper. 

    R200 diff with DAT-110 300ZX yoke, if retaining clips are present,  less expense to find and install CV axles with the stock sub axle mounts (at the wheel) ? Or more mods?

    Reason for retaining unused ring set, both diffs are the same ratio, not for resale, future replacement part if needed.  

    Thanks for the info. 

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    18 hours ago, Blitzed said:

    Hi All,

    Happy 2020! Recently acquired two Datsun R200 diffs. I'm a novice with Z the drive train configs so bear with me.

    The diffs are the same gear ratio. One has the input yoke listed below as DAT 110 and half shaft flanges on each side.

    The other has the input yoke listed as DAT 110 300ZX with no half shaft flanges. Both are round input yokes, one smaller than the other. 

    In addition to the yoke comparison below, how can I determine which Z these diff's came from, Z31 or Z32.  Serial numbers ?

    If the assumption (based on the image below) one is from a 280ZX and the other is from a 300ZX, is one diff preferred or better over the other? Reason I'm asking is only one will be completely rebuilt. Would like to spend the money on the preferred diff and keep the other for the ring set.  

    Also will acquire CV axles for the best rebuilt diff. Is one diff better for with less modifications and less money to convert to CV's ? 

    73 240Z stock rear suspension config. 

    Thanks for the advice. 

    dIFF.jpg

    Just curious. Why are are you replacing your R180 ?

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    Flexibility and options with the engine power/mods. Engine NA (L28, N42 block and head) will be rebuilt or swapped this year. Not sure the direction at this point. Diff is being replaced/upgraded as part of the drive train overhaul. Installed a 5 speed trans, rebuilt the drive shaft and now the R200 diff upgrade. I'm working backwards, from the back of the car forward to handle additional power. 

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    On 1/10/2020 at 9:36 AM, Zed Head said:

    Nissan went to the short nose R200 in 1985, when they went to the rounder 300ZX body shape. 

    I think the short nose R200 started with the Z32 in 1990. The much sought after CLSD’s with the finned covers from the 87-89 300zx turbo’s were long nose. 

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    2 hours ago, zKars said:

    I think the short nose R200 started with the Z32 in 1990. The much sought after CLSD’s with the finned covers from the 87-89 300zx turbo’s were long nose. 

    You're right, I screwed that up.  I even spent some time looking around to make sure it was right and it still wasn't.  I think I had CV axles and viscous and short nose all blended together in my head.

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    I'm wondering why you want to go with a R200. Is something wrong with the original 240Z R180?

    You could consider a Subaru Impreza WRX STI R180 with a 3.9 ratio.

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    Hi All,

    I own 2 R200 diffs. Need to deal with the parts at hand.

    The question still remains, which of the R200 diffs is the less expensive for CV' conversion?  Clip in or bolt on to flanges?

    Only rebuilding one. 

    Thanks for the advice. 

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    I've only seen weld-on CV conversions that were any good.  And that's for bolting them to the wheel-side axle.  R200's are all clip-in on the diff side.  The clip is either on the axle or in the diff, but they work the same way.

    No offense but you're asking questions that can't be answered because that's not how the R200 works.  Did you look in the hole yet, for the clips?  Your diffs are probably essentially identical.  You can also pop the axles out of the one diff and try them in the other.  Use a chisel or big screwdriver to pop them out.

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    Oops. not the right part.  You need the flange, not the axle.

    The u-joint axles are plenty strong.

    Edited by Zed Head

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