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78 280z turns off with turn signal/reverse lights


Usain_Boat

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I haven't exactly found the problem but narrowed it way down. I jumped the supply side of the fusible link for the trouble circuits to the + on the battery and it has stopped dying. My next step is to unwrap that section of wiring harness and look for the issue.

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Where exactly is this in the wiring harness? I can't make it out with the close-in shot.

By the way, great job on the perseverance. You're representing your generation well.

Edit: Wait, I'm taking that it's at the fusible link. So that branch wasn't getting full current due to the corrosion. When it got the extra load, the voltage would drop.

Edited by SteveJ
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1 hour ago, SteveJ said:

Edit: Wait, I'm taking that it's at the fusible link. So that branch wasn't getting full current due to the corrosion. When it got the extra load, the voltage would drop.

Exactly my thought too. The reason it was so intermittent was probably caused  by the car jiggling on the road and the resistance on that section causing it to heat up and expand just enough to mask the problem.

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5 hours ago, Usain_Boat said:

Found the problem! When I cut back the tape the crimp for the white wires for the problem circuit fell apart. What is the best way to repair and recrimp this area? Also notice how much corrosion there is.IMG_20190807_121219.jpg

Been there, done that. And now, confirmation that I was not the only owner with THAT problem. (Sorry about that0

for some pics of the issue I fought with.

Looks better than what I started with. Let me know if you need some additional white / red stripe wire. Got lots from the old harness I pulled out. Mine was green instead of rusty.

NOTE: See the electrical tape covering the two wires in the picture? If you have THIS condition here, you may the same condition THERE.  Not as bad as the "While I'm there disease" but more of the "Let's prevent another disaster"

Edited by wal280z
edit in bold
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1 hour ago, wal280z said:

NOTE: See the electrical tape covering the two wires in the picture? If you have THIS condition here, you may the same condition THERE.  Not as bad as the "While I'm there disease" but more of the "Let's prevent another disaster"

My plan was to look after I fixed this splice. Currently trying to solder the connection but I can't get enough heat into it to flow the solder. All I had was a 15W Radioshack iron so I bought a 100W harbor freight gun (I know not great quality) but I still can't get the whole joint to heat up and flow. I'm using quite a bit of flux too.

Edited by Usain_Boat
Flux
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What you may find, is upwards to an inch or more from the bare wire connection, there is additional corrosion that won't help your situation down the road.

Although I can't find it now, there are (were) some crimp-able  type connectors available. That is what the factory used - in some instances, a 4 into 1 using 12-14 AWG.

Although bulky, you could use some terminal blocks (2 terminal type) to connect the wires together. Then wrap the crap out of it. Bulky, yes. Serviceable, yes. OEM, no. <<this would be considered a 'BUSH FIX' (sometimes bush fixes become permanent, thanks @Captain Obvious)

@SteveJ and others will be able to add better ideas on how to CORRECTLY splice and connect.

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Do it in two steps:

 

1. Melt some solder on the tip of the iron then place the tip under the wire in the harness. Let the wire heat up then feed solder into it. Keep the heat on it.  Congrats you tinned a wire.

2. Wrap the other wire around the tinned section and do the same: Melt solder on the tip then heat the two wires while feeding solder... don't be shy on the heat time. It can take a while. Just keep the iron on the wire.

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