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BayAreaZ650

Picking up a 1977 280z 6 Hours Away. Tips?

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2 hours ago, Dave WM said:

are you sure its the injector and not the wire connection to the injector? They often become corroded and you end up with poor contact of the pins. I don't know exactly what is done to refurbish injectors, they don't look to be rebuildable other than replacing the small filter screen and plastic cap on the tip. There are places that offer cleaning services if its just a matter of improving the flow.

I tested the wire correction for all 6 injectors and they are working. One of the injectors isn't firing.


I stripped the 2 out of 4 wheel studs on the front driver's side 😕 To change out the wheel studs, do I need to remove the calipers as well?


Thank you.

 

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You need to remove the calipers to remove the rotors and hubs.  The rotors are bolted to the hubs, they are essentially one piece.  You can hang the calipers using a strong string or wire, you don't have to break the brake fluid seal.

But, I think that it's possible to change the lugs while everything is assembled.  It's easier to have the hubs off and use a press, of course, but you can knock the old ones out and use stacked nuts and/or washers to pull the new ones in, while they're on the car.  Just takes a little more ingenuity.

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I just completed most of the engine tune up work today 🙂

Now it's time to move onto the suspension. The stock suspension is very bouncy on our 1977 280z. My fiance and I are mainly going to be using the Z for driving around on the weekends and also for hitting the canyons every now and then. I want to lower the car to 1-1.5 inches. I don't plan on putting fender flares and maybe just using 215 tires on 16 inch wheels.

What do you guys think would be the best option for suspension? I was looking at Megan Coilovers for $800, CX Racing for $882 or just eibach springs and KYB struts. How do you guys like your setups?

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Did you fix those lugs?  Just curious.

That's quite a cost spread on your suspension options.  Lowering definitely helps with roll in the corners.  But new struts/inserts alone should get rid of the bouncy feeling.  You're blending your solutions together.  It could still be bouncy after lowering.

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The stock setup is very good for daily driving, (assuming it uses them, on my 75 I had rebuildable struts, some oil and o rings is all it took). I like the stock ride height just fine, makes going over things like speed bumps and in and out of driveways with dips a none issue. Plus I can still change the oil with a low profile drain pan. You can drop a very small amount to get new strut carts if yours uses them (less if you can rebuild) then drive it for a while to base line how it feels when the damping is working as it should. That way you have something to compare to if you decide to go with after market stuff.

Edited by Dave WM

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21 hours ago, Zed Head said:

Did you fix those lugs?  Just curious.

That's quite a cost spread on your suspension options.  Lowering definitely helps with roll in the corners.  But new struts/inserts alone should get rid of the bouncy feeling.  You're blending your solutions together.  It could still be bouncy after lowering.

I was able to replace them!

 

i noticed the caliper I have is different. Do you know which calipers these are? I need to get brake pads

I replaced the rotors with the non vented original rotors for a 280z and the brake pads are slightly touching the rotors.

 

 

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Edited by BayAreaZ650

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3 minutes ago, Av8ferg said:

These are Toyota Pickup calipers. It’s a good upgrade from the original dual piston that came stock.

I think you meant single piston, right?

 

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8 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

The current brake pads are slight touching the rotors. 

Is this normal?

The pads will always be close to the rotors, they self-adjust.  They shouldn't be generating any friction though, the wheel should spin freely.

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Stock is two piston I believe. One on either side. The Toyota’s are 4 piston (2 per side) I’m no expert but that’s what I’ve read when researched doing a brake upgrade on my crappy brakes. Found out my brakes were crappy because there there were no rear brake shoes on my car.
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My mistake.  You're right.

Many of the brake "upgrades" are really just brake modifications.  Anything that adds "more" is considered an "upgrade".  But, if you put stronger brakes on the front but not on the back then you change the balance.  You can get more stopping power with less effort just by changing pads also.

It's a fun job and a reason to be in the garage but if you don't go all the way you just end up with an unbalanced brake system, confusion for the next owner, and difficulty finding parts.

 

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Thanks for al the replies. I was able to get new brake pads for the Z.

i just pulled all 6 spark plugs. There’s motor oil around the threads of all 6 spark plugs. It seems like there’s also a bit of oil on maybe 2 of the spark plug tips as well.

The Z has been running extremely rich and has had a misfire issue due to one of the injectors not working. I wonder if that could be the reason.

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If it's not running great, and you already have dirty plugs then a full tuneup is a good baseline.  Set valve lash, check timing,  etc.  Followed by checking the specs using the EFI Book or the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM.  While you have the valve cover off check your cam timing using the notch and groove.  If you want to go deeper, measure cylinder pressures too.  Then you'll know you're starting point for further troubleshooting.  I've spent hours way back when I was first learning about engines swapping parts and "tuning' when all I needed was new spark plugs and points.

Many people don't like the fancy "irridium tip" plugs.  They recommend plain old standard NGK plugs.

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Go with the good old NGK copper plugs,  nothing fancy,  no platinum, g grove, tri fire,  just the plain old NGK copper plugs.

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18 hours ago, Zed Head said:

If it's not running great, and you already have dirty plugs then a full tuneup is a good baseline.  Set valve lash, check timing,  etc.  Followed by checking the specs using the EFI Book or the Engine Fuel chapter of the FSM.  While you have the valve cover off check your cam timing using the notch and groove.  If you want to go deeper, measure cylinder pressures too.  Then you'll know you're starting point for further troubleshooting.  I've spent hours way back when I was first learning about engines swapping parts and "tuning' when all I needed was new spark plugs and points.

Many people don't like the fancy "irridium tip" plugs.  They recommend plain old standard NGK plugs.

Thank you for this. The Z is running pretty well. I’ll start working on the List you gave me.

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I found a few drops of oil coming from my transmission. I looked under and it’s coming from what seems to be a sensor.

What would be the best way to fix this?

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13 minutes ago, BayAreaZ650 said:

I found a few drops of oil coming from my transmission. I looked under and it’s coming from what seems to be a sensor.

What would be the best way to fix this?

Sometimes the leak is through the body of the sensor itself.  Probably have to remove it and see.  Be careful with the wires they get really brittle over time. Many sensors with wire stubs out there.

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On 4/21/2019 at 9:59 AM, Zed Head said:

Sometimes the leak is through the body of the sensor itself.  Probably have to remove it and see.  Be careful with the wires they get really brittle over time. Many sensors with wire stubs out there.

Thank you for this Zed Head! Would replacing the entire sensor fix the leaking issue or are there additional o-rings I need to replace as well?

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There is an o-ring on it. Worth replacing, it could be the culprit. Remove the switch from the tranny and you'll see the o-ring. I keep an assortment of o-rings for stuff like this. Hopefully that'a all it is. If not I see zcardepot has the switch as another option to suppliers Zed Head gave you. Even autozone has them for less than $20 amazingly. 

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I'm not so sure that there's an O-ring there.  The ones I've seen are just two machined flats, no gasket, no O-ring.  Worth removing to take a look, for sure, though.  Easy.  19 mm wrench.

I just went and messed with one I had off to see what I remembered.  The body of the one I looked at is metal, crimped around a plastic mechanism.  some have a metal plunger.  I don't know if there's an O-ring inside or not.  But the plastic portion was loose in its seat in the metal body.  I wiggled it and oil started to work its way out.   I think that the plastic, or internal O-rings, shrink after a few million heat cycles and leaks start.

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Looks like zcardepot sells it with an o-ring but autozone does not. So who knows. 

IIRC when I was tracing a leak at the switch I fixed it with a new o-ring. But that was about 9 years ago. So I could have installed one to stop a leak if what you say is correct Zed Head, no o-ring

Looks like it's one of those "mysteries". I can't find anything that says yes or no on the o-ring.

Edited by rcb280z

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O-rings are interesting things. They were developed to replace old fiber and grease packing materials.  They are supposed to have a fairly precisely sized channel to live in to work correctly.  Not really meant to be squished flat.

I think that I just used some Hylomar blue non-hardening sealant on mine.  You could make your own paper gasket pretty easily.  Lots of flat to worth with.

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