I have to meet the insurance adjuster at 10 in the morning. I am concerned about what to do.

Let them pay the body shop, or let them give me the check?

Any advice would be helpful.

Thank you,

Jai

Jai, I have no experience with insurance in the US, but over here repair companies ask a lot more for repairs when you go through an insurance company. A repairer told me he would give me 25% discount if he delt with me directly and not the insurance company.

You could ask the repairer what he would prefer and if he will give you a discount.

This morning RedBird started great and warmed up with no problem. Drove to the body shop, (story about that below). Leaving there, started and drove to the local flea market. When leaving the flea market she started and then stalled. Jumped out and QUICKLY opened the hood to look at the fuel gauge. It was exactly on 30. Tried to restart her, and she willingly did. Drove to exit, stalled again. Restarted quickly, with no problem. Would have checked gauge again if she hadn't started on the first try. From there, drove the long way home so she could stretch her legs. Parked, and thanked her, it was a great trip. I will be leaving again late this afternoon for Bible study. Plan to park in a well lit area, so that I can warm her up, as it will be after dark. Don't want to repeat the towing of 2 weeks ago.

About the insurance adjuster and body shop:

Today was the day to see the insurance adjuster about the crunch RedBird got from a person who backed into her without looking. All is going to be fine. I explained to him this is not a regular car, but a classic which might need parts that are almost unobtainable. Costly at the least. He finally realized I was not going to be pushed around, and that she needs special treatment. He has assured me that she will get everything in the perfect repair she deserves. And if the body shop finds it is to cost more than the estimate, that they will allow that, and cut a second check if needed. Now all I have to do is say when she is going in. I'm thinking of next Monday.

BTW ..... Deanna went with me today, she loves to ride. At the body shop, she got in my seat. Someone came by and wanted to know if she had her drivers license. Tee hee hee.... So I took her photo "driving". Enjoy!

Thanks for all the help,

Jai

Good to hear that you got a reasonable adjuster.  Sounds like you're back on track.

 

I thought of another possibility last night.  This actually happened to me over the summer, I wrote about it on the site.  The EFI relay could be failing.  This last summer, several times over the course of a week my engine would crank endlessly and not start after a short shopping trip.  I would wait, while thinking and hoping, then try again and it would start.

 

In my case, I also had a switch for the fuel pump and used it to make sure the pump was running, as a test, because I thought that maybe the AFM switch was stuck (it's happened before).  Even with the pump running, it wouldn't start and I could see the tachometer needle moving, indicating spark.  So that led me to the EFI relay, which was actually an extra one that came with the car.  I had always wondered why the PO had an extra relay, and after the no-start I realized it was actually the left-over bad one,which I had swapped back in to test if it was good or not.

 

Anyway, just wanted to add that in there for the record.  After it was out I took it apart and found that the solenoid coil was crispy and brown.  CO said that was a classic sign of an overheated solenoid.  Apparently, a wire in the coil can break and open the circuit occasionally giving random failures.

 

The relay is hard to get to, but it can be unplugged and a replacement plugged in and left hanging, for a test.  It's above the hood release lever in the cabin.

Wow Zed, that is a bunch of information. Thank you so much. I do not know if the guys that have worked on RedBird checked any of that out. But by your posting it, they will see it. I'm sure some replies will come thru after they think about it. This is great. Glad to hear a new slant on her problems. What you describe about your car sounds very much like what she is doing. I'm very excited.

Thank you again,

Jai

Jai, does it die right away or does it cough/choke as if it wants to keep running?

 

Love the pic of Deanna in the drivers seat.

In the last week, at least 13 causes have been proposed for the problems Jai is having with her Z.

 

fusible link

ignition switch

switch for the fuel pump

EFI relay

solenoid coil

could still be fuel related

spraying freon on the TIU

ECU

the auxiliary air regulator

fuel pump

raising the idle speed slightly

potentiometer

valve guide seals

 

They cover a fairly wide spectrum.  Unfortunately many can't be checked without test equipment and will result in the tried and true "remove and replace" method of troubleshooting.

 

I'd like to suggest that Jai check and eliminate the items on the list as possible causes before we add more to the list.  It can get a little overwhelming, especially with the added stress of the accident repair.  Just a FWIW thought.

Dennis

In the last week, at least 13 causes have been proposed for the problems Jai is having with her Z.

 

fusible link

ignition switch

switch for the fuel pump

EFI relay

solenoid coil

could still be fuel related

spraying freon on the TIU

ECU

the auxiliary air regulator

fuel pump

raising the idle speed slightly

potentiometer

valve guide seals

 

They cover a fairly wide spectrum.  Unfortunately many can't be checked without test equipment and will result in the tried and true "remove and replace" method of troubleshooting.

 

I'd like to suggest that Jai check and eliminate the items on the list as possible causes before we add more to the list.  It can get a little overwhelming, especially with the added stress of the accident repair.  Just a FWIW thought.

Dennis

rcb280z,

Both, it depends when.

If dying during being started, she stumbles.

When rolling along, just suddenly dies, no warning. This is rare, only a few times.

Dennis,

Phew, that is a list. There are only a couple that I can take care of myself.

Perhaps some of the gentlemen that have worked on RB, will know if any of these suggestions have been checked out. How about it guys? Can you shorten this list?

As to those that have not been checked out, I'm not sure how I will get them checked.

Like you said Dennis, with the damage to her, this long list kinda sends me into overwhelm. I thought we were closing in on the problem (s).

Thank you for taking the time to prepare this list Dennis. I'm sure it will help to focus on what to do next.

Jai

I'll kick things off with an easy one.  Raise the idle speed slightly.  Just use your ear since the tachometer doesn't work.  If idle speed is too low, the plugs can foul during warmup.  At low idle speed the typical Z car alternator can not meet the demands of the electrical system.  This could be causing low voltage during warmup, which can cause a variety of problems.

 

It's easy and can't harm anything.  The Z EFI system passes through two areas during warmup where idle speed will drop - once when the AAR valve closes and again when the ignition system goes off the second pickup, if it has one.  If it doesn't have the second pickup then it sits in a low RPM area for longer.  

 

Modern EFI systems monitor RPM and change timing to hold a steady idle.

 

In short - turn that screw counterclockwise a 1/2 turn or more and add some idle RPM.  Worst case, your battery lasts longer.

I'll kick things off with an easy one.  Raise the idle speed slightly.  Just use your ear since the tachometer doesn't work.  If idle speed is too low, the plugs can foul during warmup.  At low idle speed the typical Z car alternator can not meet the demands of the electrical system.  This could be causing low voltage during warmup, which can cause a variety of problems.

 

It's easy and can't harm anything.  The Z EFI system passes through two areas during warmup where idle speed will drop - once when the AAR valve closes and again when the ignition system goes off the second pickup, if it has one.  If it doesn't have the second pickup then it sits in a low RPM area for longer.  

 

Modern EFI systems monitor RPM and change timing to hold a steady idle.

 

In short - turn that screw counterclockwise a 1/2 turn or more and add some idle RPM.  Worst case, your battery lasts longer.

Ok will do that tomorrow. It's getting late now and I must feed the dogs and check the hens and goats.

I'm thinking that I will be able to do that one, with no help. Direct and easy. RB has driven well yesterday and today. She had a couple stops yesterday, but restarted quickly, with no stopping today. I'm loving driving again now. I am much less anxious about her dying.

Thank you,

Jai

I do have a like new ignition switch you can have.

Remove yours and install this. Just 2 screws.

Just one more thing to eliminate.

Just PM me with your mailing address.

It sounds like the car is getting better the more you drive it.

I do not think you have a fuel issue like before anymore.

I do have a like new ignition switch you can have.

Remove yours and install this. Just 2 screws.

Just one more thing to eliminate.

Just PM me with your mailing address.

It sounds like the car is getting better the more you drive it.

I do not think you have a fuel issue like before anymore.

Thank you lumens, I have sent you a p.m. Look for it.

RB will be going into the body shop Monday I think, for 4 days for her repair.

I want to get past that.

Thanks again,

Jai

I'll kick things off with an easy one.  Raise the idle speed slightly.  Just use your ear since the tachometer doesn't work.  If idle speed is too low, the plugs can foul during warmup.  At low idle speed the typical Z car alternator can not meet the demands of the electrical system.  This could be causing low voltage during warmup, which can cause a variety of problems.

 

It's easy and can't harm anything.  The Z EFI system passes through two areas during warmup where idle speed will drop - once when the AAR valve closes and again when the ignition system goes off the second pickup, if it has one.  If it doesn't have the second pickup then it sits in a low RPM area for longer.  

 

Modern EFI systems monitor RPM and change timing to hold a steady idle.

 

In short - turn that screw counterclockwise a 1/2 turn or more and add some idle RPM.  Worst case, your battery lasts longer.

ZedHead,

Today I went and changed the idle (counterclockwise) 180 degrees. I could hear it raised the RPM's some, I sat in and raised the rpm's manually. Shortly I took her and Deanna, for a spin. The route covered about 20 miles. She ran beautifully, not a misstep.

I even stopped to talk on the phone, and she restarted perfectly. We shall see if she starts any better tomorrow.

Thank you for all your suggestions and help.

Jai