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New owner of a very early 240Z


metalmonkey47

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Interesting, is there any benefit of running the later master cylinder? Different bore size maybe? I can't see any reason why someone would go from stock on such an original car, unless the original wasn't availible at the time.

Both the early master cylinder (for use up to Aug '71) and the later one have a 7/8" bore, as far as I know the early one has been harder to find and therefore usually more expensive. The early one P/N 46010-E4602 can still be ordered from Nissan Dealerships, I have one on order right now due for delivery from Japan to western Canada by the end of this month. I went this way both for originality and ease of installation, ie: no brake line modifications required.

Mike

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  • 2 weeks later...

Unless you've now got your heart set on the tinted ones... I've got a set of NOS clear covers from MSA if you're interested. Bought them for a Z a while ago but sold the car before I installed them. Still wrapped up in the box. LMK if you're interested? Save some bucks?

I wouldn't mind having them. I'll shoot you a PM in a little bit when i get a chance, not ready for them quite yet as the car isn't yet on the road, but I'm interested for sure.

Both the early master cylinder (for use up to Aug '71) and the later one have a 7/8" bore, as far as I know the early one has been harder to find and therefore usually more expensive. The early one P/N 46010-E4602 can still be ordered from Nissan Dealerships, I have one on order right now due for delivery from Japan to western Canada by the end of this month. I went this way both for originality and ease of installation, ie: no brake line modifications required.

Mike

Interesting. Thanks for the P/N, I'd like to stay as close to original as possible so I'll check with my local Nissan guy and see if they can get there hands on one for a good price. It is on my replace list, I have no clue how old this thing is.

Also, I've heard a little about using mid 80's Yota 4x4 calipers on a 240z, and that they bolt onto the stock location with no modifications, using a stock rotor. Does this use the standard brake line, or are there modifications required to use this caliper? Also has anyone had fitment issues inside 14'' rims? Anyone that might be able to toss in some words would be great help...

Last but not least, I did get a chance to finally rub some nice Meguires compound on the hood just for a test spot, and man the paint sure clears up nice! It's hard to tell from this poor picture, but there's quite a nice shine, almost mirror-like, and it's not even polished or waxed. Wow I love enamel paint.

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Oh yeah, just for entertainment purposes, a friend I went to high school with and his '76 Celica. It's got a Yota Tacoma motor stock as a rock with a nice HX35 turbo setup, and some piggyback ECM. Not sure what exactly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

You mentioned that the only rust issue you've found are in the floor board areas. It's very likely that you have a leak in the cowl area and the water found it's way down the inside of the firewall and under the sound deadening material. This is a very common problem. The cowl drains clog and water stands in the cowl area and gets into the passenger compartment via some areas inside the cowl that didn't get sealed well from the factory. I would check this soon if I were you. You could have some serious rust issues in the floor board/foot well area that have only just begun to present themselves. Great car. Good luck.

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  • 2 weeks later...
You mentioned that the only rust issue you've found are in the floor board areas. It's very likely that you have a leak in the cowl area and the water found it's way down the inside of the firewall and under the sound deadening material. This is a very common problem. The cowl drains clog and water stands in the cowl area and gets into the passenger compartment via some areas inside the cowl that didn't get sealed well from the factory. I would check this soon if I were you. You could have some serious rust issues in the floor board/foot well area that have only just begun to present themselves. Great car. Good luck.

Thanks for the advice man! There's a good chance that's where it is. The rust looks all to be at the lowest point in the floor so there's a good chance that is what it is. I'll be ripping the wiper motor/linkages out soon so I'll check the cowl drains as soon as I do that. (Obviously)

I got the car home tonight! It runs magnificent. Only issue I see at this point is that the car punishes me for trying to beat on it. Under load/full throttle it chokes and I've gotten a few nice pops from the exhaust. Very same symptoms my LZ22 in the 620 showed after the first drive, which was rectified with a little more advance. I haven't checked the timing yet, but now that I have it at home with all my tools I'll be doing that.

^^any feedback would be great.

So stoked that the car only cost me $67 per month to insure.

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You mentioned that the only rust issue you've found are in the floor board areas. It's very likely that you have a leak in the cowl area and the water found it's way down the inside of the firewall and under the sound deadening material. This is a very common problem. The cowl drains clog and water stands in the cowl area and gets into the passenger compartment via some areas inside the cowl that didn't get sealed well from the factory. I would check this soon if I were you. You could have some serious rust issues in the floor board/foot well area that have only just begun to present themselves. Great car. Good luck.

Where are those troublesome cowl drains? Like under the grille in the exterior cowl?

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Where are those troublesome cowl drains? Like under the grille in the exterior cowl?

If it's anything like my 210 I had, they would exit down in the fenders. The water would drain down the cowl out of the drivers side and passenger side inner fenders, but they clog with dirt and trash, so the water would collect in the cowl.

I got the car home last night! We wrestled the glass into the hatch for about 3 hours until we were able to make it fit. I drove the car this morning to work and it presented a few issues. I have a clunk accelerating that needs to be addressed. We just put good axle shafts in, and the driveshaft joints felt tight when i was under it so I'll have to look at the rear end tomorrow.

The car was running pig rich, so bad it would hurt your eyes and at 4000RPM or under heavy loads (up hill at heavy throttle) it would cut up and billow black smoke from the pipes. I balanced the carbs out by ear and with my hands for the time being, and set the timing and she runs like a top!!

First picture after her bath for now.

post-30371-14150828655648_thumb.jpg

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...I balanced the carbs out by ear and with my hands for the time being, and set the timing and she runs like a top!!...

nothing more satisfying than getting a decent base tune with a couple of hand tools, your eyes and ears :}

she looks great - can't wait to hear the rest of the story as the de-bugging continues

Edited by rossiz
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Update:

The timing has really confused me. At some point someone must have dropped the oil pump, because the distributor is off by quite a bit. I can't get enough advance. It starts to break up at 4000-4500. No more revs under load after that. With my cheap timing light it's WAY off the timing table.... gotta drop the oil pump and get it figured out.

Other then that, I've been happy with it! It has NO dash lights, so I'm a little disappointed by that. I hate electrical gremlins.

A little picture for now.

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