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[2012] What did you do to/with your S30 today?


Arne

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After installing the TechnoToy LCAs, I drove the 240 to the alignment shop and back, before go off to work.

Camber 2.3, caster 3.4, toe 1/16 front with 2.1 camber and 1/16 toe in the rear.

After work, I spend a few hours drilling holes (tranny, oil pan, diff drain plugs, etc.) in the 240 race car to attach safety wire (tomorrow's chore)

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I installed new weatherstripping in the windows for the doors. (there was none in there)

Installed new rear interior panels as a previous owner cut out the speaker grills leaving a large hole.

Fixed ebrake.

Replaced starter.

Removed front valance in preparation for installing a new air dam.

Removed steering wheel and test fit the original steering wheel to see how I like it. Still can't decide what I'll use

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Wire wheeled misc. brackets and pieces under the hood, and gave them a clear coat.

Got bored and moved onto the interior.

Ripped out old vinyl and carpet, seats and seat belts.

Test fit new carpet kit

Hammered out mystery floorpan dents, someone did some serious offroading.

Vacuumed and wirebrushed the dried mud and sand from under the driver's seat carpet... I think this car spent some time in a river, or mud-bogging, hense the substantial floor-pan damage, rot and river mud?

Wondered how I'm going to fix the rusted out hole under the driver's seat on the subframe

Drilled out shift pin hole and ran bolt through to reduce play in stick... Serious engineering fail on the inevitable wear on tear on the fork.

Installed clutch fork and slave cylinder

Clear-coated finished engine

Went to Canadian Tire and bought two cheap door mirrors that look suprising better than expected

Test fit new-to-me rusty headlight bucket after throwing out MSA headlight bucket becuase a piece of dried mud would fit better than that crap.

Satisfied enough with the fit, ground of old studs and welded in new ones. Gave up on that for now.

Greased passenger's side window tracks and rollers, window now works!

Noticed locks and latch mechanism on both doors does not work and broken...

Came here to investigate replacing entire locking assemblies

Wondered why popular Zcar part supplier sent a shift pin and snap ring when the shift pin requires a pin and not a snap ring. Furthermore had the shift pin they sent been the one that required a snap ring, the snap ring they sent is the wrong size...

Wondered why other popular Zcar part supplier is always out of stock of their outsourced parts...

Wondered who the suppliers are so I can dodge the middle man, pay less and get my shipments to my door weeks sooner.

Wondered how this car ever passed an out of country inspection to get into my hands when it's clearly broken everywhere, doesn't have legal seatbelts, doesn't have door locks and the driver's side window track is broken.

Had two beers and went back and sat in the car, on the floor, not in that order.

Pulled steering wheel

Removed brutal leather wrap from wheel.

Sanded the **** out of the wheel and wondered what finish would work best while matching the shift knob.

Removed door weatherstripping from door frames, and stared at door lock....

Came back in house and again researched door locks...

Found this thread.

Anyone got a link to good how to on door lock replacement? By lock I mean everything.

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I added brake cooling ducts to direct air from the inlets that came on the "spook" more toward the brake calipers. This isn't a high end professional job. I used 3" hard dryer duct from a local discount hardware store and attached it to the inner fender with stainless steel band clamps that are pop-riveted to the unit-body.

I posted pictures in the photo gallery. Search for "brake cooling duct" and they should pop to the surface.

I have no idea if this actually accomplishes anything as far as brake cooling, but at least I plugged up the vent holes in the air dam.

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Having pulled the center dash finisher, the heater control panel, the heater & blower motor out last week - I disassembled, cleaned, sanded, Ospho'd then primed & painted the heater box assembly. Today I'll be putting new seals in and re-assembling it. Heater core and heater control valve are in excellent condition!! Now all I have to do is find the new heater hoses I bought last year!

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Spent two hours scrubbing black tar glue from vapor barrier on doors on my 78.

What a mess that stuff is i saw it dripping down when warm for the two years that i drove the car.

Did the 240 have that black mess applied.

NISSAN must have got it cheap.

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Sounds like acoustic sealant. There really is nothing that works better for sealing vapour barrier, but it is messy and terrible stuff. For a while one wall in my garage, and my tool chest was covered in it, after the ceiling vapour barrier started to fall down... nasty, nasty. Brake cleaner seems to help with clean up a little.

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Today I opened up a box from Ztherapy... Suddenly I felt a kick in the pants to get the engine in!

I need to cut out a section of floor and replace it, but apparently local code says it needs to overlap 1.5" and be welded AND riveted... They can't be serious. If I grind everything clean, and spot weld a perfect fitting piece to replace the one I cut out, prime and seal it, whats the problem? I bet I could POR 15 that area to match the rest of my floor and they wouldn't have a clue. The factory floor plans are essentially held in place the same way, are they not?

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