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Everything posted by Ptero

  1. Job done. Took a while to get all the parts and to find the time to get everything done. First impressions are good. I may have to adjust the clutch pedal position as per the FSM, but overall everything is working well. In the end I did the following: Replaced the transmission (old one needs to be rebuilt) Replaced rear seal on trans. Replaced the differential from an r180 to r200 to keep the gearing correct for the trans I swapped in. Replaced side seals, front seal & gasket of diff. Replaced rear main seal. Replaced clutch & pressure
  2. Running and driving, no howling of the diff yet. That's not to say it won't, but it just hasn't yet.
  3. If it howls, it howls. It's installed. I'm gonna howl with joy from driving it again.
  4. I was replacing the front seal of the diff. It's real damn tight now and also has red loctite so the nut isn't going anywhere. This diff is coming out of a parts car so I don't even know what it would have sounded like before.
  5. Sooooooo I didn't mark the pinion nut when I took it off. How silly of me. Now I'm reassembling and I see the torque specs for the pinion nut is 137-159 ft-lb. Great! So I torqued it to that and the preload when spinning the companion flange didn't change. I believe it's supposed to be 6.8 to 10.8lb and I've got about 2.5lb. So I torqued it some more. Preload didn't change. I saw in another post on hybridz: https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/129225-r200-pinion-flange-nut-torque/ "That "put it back where it was" suggestion is a bad one even for a diff that has a crush sleeve.
  6. Got around to doing a few things today. Found the right collar to get me to the 92mm sweet spot. Replaced the rear main seal, installed the new pilot bushing, cleaned up and painted the transmission plate and installed the flywheel.
  7. That's something I'm currently looking into. I've got 3 different sized throwout sleeves on my table right now, but I haven't measured them. I measured the new pressure plate when it was flat on the table and it was 1 3/4" from the table to the top of the fingers.
  8. The new one fit perfectly on the clutch alignment tool. Doesn't hurt to try it on the transmission too I suppose.
  9. Well I suppose an update is in order. A smallish fix has got me into the "while I'm here" state of mind and things have ballooned a little bit. Everything out of necessity I'm telling myself. Decided it'd be a good idea to replace the pilot bushing. Clutch kit comes with one after all. I'd say the old one was pretty tired. Wow! Got the flywheel resurfaced. Swapping in a wide ratio 5 speed. Cleaning it up a bit because it was filthy. Due to changing from a short ratio 5 speed to a wide, I am now switching out my r180
  10. I don't think I've got the perfect combination, but that's ok. I'll work with what I've got. L28 & 5 speed wide ratio with one of the following: R180 /w 3.36 gearing (existing diff) R200 /w 3.54 gearing (have all components to install in car) Some highway driving and some city driving, but no track or racing. Is there a preferred combination here? From what I understand, 3.36 might be a bit sluggish in lower gears but better on the highway while the 3.54 would be a bit better for light to light but higher rpms on the highway. Correct me if I'm wrong.
  11. Checked around the shop and I've got 2 possible diff's to use. R180 /w 3.36 gearing (existing diff) R200 /w 3.54 gearing Keeping in mind I'll be using this /w the wide ratio 5 spd from a 77-78 280z I believe. Again, some highway driving and some city driving, but no track or racing. Is there a preferred combination here? Maybe this is a topic for another thread and I'm sure has already been covered (I'll start scouring after this).
  12. Welp, cracked open the diff. Stamped with 37:11 which means it has 3.36 gearing. Not ideal for the wide ratio 5 speed? The car is used for casual driving around town and on the highway. Never taken to the track or raced.
  13. EXEDY GlobalParts (formerly Daikin Clutch USA).
  14. haha, I've been collecting parts for several years. Sometimes I forget what's all stored in my shop. I have 4 spares, but couldn't remember if they were all 4 spd or if there were any 5 speeds. Turns out there was one!
  15. The only marking I could find on it.
  16. Turns out I've got a spare 5 spd wide ratio transmission. I'll be swapping over to that instead of rebuilding the one I just pulled.
  17. Found the culprit. One of the pins holding the pressure plate together broke off and got lodged. Half the pressure plate was pressed in while the other half wasn't. It relaxed after I took it apart, but there is still permanent damage to it. Clutch appears to be in ok shape, but will be replaced anyways. Flywheel also seems to be alright. No grooves. Smooth as far as my fingers can tell.
  18. So, not the most inspiring start to this repair. You guys got any ideas what these metal parts are from?
  19. Yeah, I kind of figured as much. I'll be pulling it this weekend unless I find any other options.
  20. Here's a video of what the pressure plate is/isn't doing. You can see that only a few of the diaphragm springs are actually moving when the clutch is pressed down.
  21. The clutch fork only moves about 20-22mm. I was just bleeding through the slave cylinder which seems to continually produce air. Wondering if there is maybe an air leak somewhere. Looked through the peep hole in the transmission. When the clutch was not pressed in, only some of the forks on the pressure plate were pulled back while others stayed pressed towards the back of the transmission. Not sure if I'm explaining that correctly because I've never actually looked up there before or know how it's normally supposed to work.
  22. "step on it" meant I was stepping on the clutch. I'll take a peek into the glory hole of my transmission to see what I find. Pictures or video to follow.
  23. ooooook, a few updates. -with the car off, tried pushing it while in 1st gear. Rocked it back and forth and the clutch didn't break free (assuming it's seized). -started the car in first gear and drove it in circles in the driveway with the clutch pressed in. Clutch still stuck. -drove down the road in 1st and shifted into 2nd with rev matching so it just popped into second. Drove about a mile or so with the clutch pressed in the entire time, stepping on the brakes then stepping on the gas, again and again. Well... that also didn't break the clutch free.
  24. Shifter bushings are good. I changed them to brass a few years back. It had some gunk in there so I cleaned it all out, greased it and am able to change into all gears with the car off. There must be some sort of reverse lock out from 5th into reverse though. Can't go from 5th to reverse, but can do any other gear into reverse. I can't put the car into gear with the engine running. I haven't pushed crazy hard, but I also shouldn't have to. When trying to go into reverse with the car on, it grinds unlike the other gears where it just won't go.
  25. Ehhhhhhh it's never been GREAT, but it was definitely driveable. I've replaced the master & slave in the past as well as adjusted the clutch pedal assembly which had some good results; however this time is different.
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