tool falls inside block coolant passages

[DeMoore]

How much rust, out of curiosity? And how did you remove it?

[Panamared]

Hey DeMoore.

A lot of flakes of rust maybe 5% of the whole area if not wrong.

Here is the info to remove the plugs. Took me about 5 minutes.

[tlorber]

I just wish I knew what an "injector pintle cap" was.

[pwd]

Hey DeMoore.

A lot of flakes of rust maybe 5% of the whole area if not wrong.

Here is the info to remove the plugs. Took me about 5 minutes.

PR, now you know why it's critical to clean the block! All that crud really reduces cooling efficiency. As mentioned, you should take the block to an automotive machine shop and have them "cook", flush, and replace the freeze plugs.

[ajmcforester]

PR, now you know why it's critical to clean the block! All that crud really reduces cooling efficiency. As mentioned, you should take the block to an automotive machine shop and have them "cook", flush, and replace the freeze plugs.

Just make sure you take all the plugs out before you take it to the shop. My friend is building a Ford 460 to replace the one in his truck and the guy didn't take one out and we used a chisel to remove the rust so we could clean what was missed

[cygnusx1]

I just wish I knew what an "injector pintle cap" was.

It's a cap over the pintle of the injector.

I was about to play Taps but you got the tap out. :stupid: OK I'm tapping out.

[DeMoore]

PR, now you know why it's critical to clean the block! All that crud really reduces cooling efficiency. As mentioned, you should take the block to an automotive machine shop and have them "cook", flush, and replace the freeze plugs.

That's the one thing that makes me worry about the engine. You can replace all the hoses and change the oil and, but the rust in the coolant passage is like a timer on the engine. Is there any way to absolutely prevent any rust from forming after a clean-up? More importantly, what if I don't have the time or money to take the block apart and clean all that rust out? I bought a radiator flush that goes into the coolant before you change it, but I'm not exactly sure what it's supposed to do. I haven't used it yet.

Edited April 21, 2010 by DeMoore

[sblake01]

I just wish I knew what an "injector pintle cap" was.

It's the plastic cap that goes over the injector nozzle.

[ZCurves]

That's the one thing that makes me worry about the engine. You can replace all the hoses and change the oil and, but the rust in the coolant passage is like a timer on the engine. Is there any way to absolutely prevent any rust from forming after a clean-up? More importantly, what if I don't have the time or money to take the block apart and clean all that rust out? I bought a radiator flush that goes into the coolant before you change it, but I'm not exactly sure what it's supposed to do. I haven't used it yet.

The ONLY proper way to clean a block is what PWD mentioned in an earlier post, you have to take it to a machine shop and have them "Cook" it in solvent and power flush it out! Not only does this remove the Pooky in the Water Jackets but also the Sludge in the Oil Galleys.

As for rust prevention after a clean-up, the simplest way is to use WD-40 or similar on the machined surfaces until you rebuild then switch to a Assembly Lube (I like Motor Honey). The Water Jackets should be left alone. Use top quality Antifreeze with Anti-Rust and perform the usual "flush" every couple of years.

For the Budget Minded, If you flush your block until the fluid is no longer rusty or pooky-fied -you'll be fine. The main culprit in a dirty cooling system is a Funky Radiator. Radiators are cheap ($100 - $150) and easy to replace. You can also have them cleaned at a Radiator Shop for half the cost of a new one.

For Coolant, a Clean Radiator = Clean Block. Dirty Oil and Sludge go without saying and should be the topic of another Thread.

Edited April 21, 2010 by ZCurves