'77 280z mustache bar removal ?

[kjphilippona]

I have searched for directions on removal of the mustache bar on a '77 280z and found none. All i found are for older 240z's and my bar will not come off using those instructions. Looking at the bar, i thought it would come off easy without having to disassemble the rear suspension and exhaust :disappoin

[gnosez]

I'm sure someone must have gotten one out without removing the diff, but I'm not one of them.

I am in the process of doing a complete suspension, bushing and bearing job on a '76 at the shop and to get the bar out the diff had to come out ( I needed it out for other reasons) but where the bar bolts to the body of the car doesn't allow you to just remove the 2 bolts that hold it to the diff and then just muscle it off.

You could support the diff, lower the back end of the driveshaft and loosen the diff and RCAs carrier. Then you can move the diff forward a bit to allow you to get it past the diff bolts and then drop the bar itself.

If you haven't replaced your diff insulator mount, now would be a good time.

I'm sure someone has a better approach......

[mgood]

You should (or can) be able to remove it without dropping the trany. I say this because the 2 nuts sticking out of the back of the trany on the mustache bar are studs. When I took those nuts off of mine, one nut came off and one nut removed the stud with it.

You might have to lower the trany, that means disconnecting the front mount member.

Look for threads in the search area for replacing the bushings.

[gnosez]

I was just going to edit my post with the thought that you might and I mean might be able to get the bolts off the diff with the nuts attached. My estimate your odds at less than 30%. Worth a try...

[kjphilippona]

I was able to remove all 4 nut holding the bar to the frame and diff housing. I then was able to slip the bar over the studs by raising the diff housing. This is as far as i got, the bar would hit against the suspension before clearing the studs out of the frame. No amount of prying and #@$ing did any good, even if i were able to remove it with the deteriorated bushings on the bar, when i replaced them it would be tighter. When you are by your self working on the ground in the backyard it can be a pain.

Edited January 19, 2010 by kjphilippona

[gnosez]

Seems like you are back to my earlier suggestion re: removing or moving the diff.

As to being on your back behind the house that would mean clearing a foot of snow. I've sent the day draining all the fluids, replacing them, and checking for loose nuts and bolts under the car. Mine is in my garage on jack stands and I don't have clearance for me and the creeper and even on my back it's tight. I understand your problem.

The bar is a spring so you can't pry it off using household equipment.

[gnosez]

Meant to say I like your model and have attached pics of mine.

[Jeff G 78]

I removed my '78's mustache bar without removing the diff. I believe I pried the bar rearward past the studs and then jacked the diff up until the studs cleared the top of the bar. At that point I was able to work the bar down off the body studs. It wasn't easy or pretty, but I got it. I used poly bushings, so installing it was a bit easier since they are two piece. The bar can be twisted quite a bit without the bottom half of the poly bushing in place. If I were using OE rubber bushings, then I would have removed the front diff mount.

After a bunch of diff R&Rs on my LeMons 260, I can now remove a front mount in only a few minutes. It used to take me several hours to swap a front mount. The trick is body position. Lay on your back with your feet hanging straight out the back of the car and reach the opposite arm from the bolt you are working on up over the diff to remove the bolt. It's hard to describe, but it works great. To remove the passenger side front vertical bolt, reach your right hand with a 1/2" drive ratchet through the suspension and above the diff. With your left hand, hold the nut with a wrench. Repeat using the other arms for the driver's side bolt. If you try to reach the same side bolts, your arm will be too long and will be in an awkward position. Likewise, laying sideways or forwards doesn't allow any room for your arms and hands.

BTW, I am a BRE fan too. Here is my LeMons 260.

[kjphilippona]

Nice cars :classic: I can only afford the model :disappoin I will give that bar another try this weekend, if no rain.