Ron Tyler Differential Mount

[gnosez]

I ended up installing my stock diff mount at the same time and have had no issues whatsoever. A bit overkill but then I tend to drive it hard...

[Darrel]

From what I have read, the RT mount was designed to move the front of the diffy down when doing a v8 swap.

When they started selling, people found out that you can use the stock mount and a different top mount that cost less than a gm mount. I used a frame bump stop and the stock mount.

The bump stop acts just like the stock strap, except that it doesn't stretch like the strap. You just need to cut or grind the bump stop to fit.

You can leave a little room between the bump stop and the diff, or make the fit snug. Either way you do it the diff is sandwhiched between 2 mounts.

Check the other links below this thread, I am sure there is another thread going into a little more detail.

[jmortensen]

From what I have read, the RT mount was designed to move the front of the diffy down when doing a v8 swap.

When they started selling, people found out that you can use the stock mount and a different top mount that cost less than a gm mount. I used a frame bump stop and the stock mount.

The bump stop acts just like the stock strap, except that it doesn't stretch like the strap. You just need to cut or grind the bump stop to fit.

You can leave a little room between the bump stop and the diff, or make the fit snug. Either way you do it the diff is sandwhiched between 2 mounts.

Check the other links below this thread, I am sure there is another thread going into a little more detail.

I think it's interesting that nobody is reporting pinion angle issues with the R/T mount. If that were a problem, then using a pinion snubber like you've done is a good solution. Strangely, it doesn't seem to be an issue.

[Zs-ondabrain]

So I finally got the R/T mount, Coatd it with POR15, drilled out the exhaust hanger that the 260Z's have in the way of the R/T, pushed the 2 fuel lines and the brake line upwards to clear the R/T, and finally mounted it up there.

All went well, slid right into place with a couple nudges of the plastic mallet, bolted right into place. Lifted the diff onto my shoulder and slid the studs into the mustache bar and got the nuts on there. Then I slid the bolt thru the top of the R/T and let it hand while I loosened the GM Poly Mount to give myself some leeway and it bolted right up. Slid a wrench onto the 19mm nylon lock nuts and tightened the poly back down to the diff and took a few pics for ya.

Here ya go,

Dave

[Zs-ondabrain]

I agree that for a pure street cruiser it probably makes no difference as you said. I was thinking of taking it off because it would make diff swaps SUPER easy, and add room for the exhaust as you said.

And now, with the pics in the post above this one, I totally agree with the theory of "Make Diff swaps SUPER easy" Literally 2 bolts and 2 nuts on the mustache bar with the driveline and shorties and it's out. And the exhaust clearance is phenomenal. Should make for an easy instal on the dual 2" pipes.

The fuel tank should be done by monday. Yeah!!

[Nigel1943]

As a gnarled old rally driver I wonder how much "grief" the R/T mount will take. It's a excellent piece of innovation but as far as I can see relies totally on the integrity of the bond of the GM mount to the mounting plate. Yes, it will stop the diff kicking up under acceleration but under deceleration will test the bond and add to the gravitational pull. Anyone used one for any length of time?

[jmortensen]

As a gnarled old rally driver I wonder how much "grief" the R/T mount will take. It's a excellent piece of innovation but as far as I can see relies totally on the integrity of the bond of the GM mount to the mounting plate. Yes, it will stop the diff kicking up under acceleration but under deceleration will test the bond and add to the gravitational pull. Anyone used one for any length of time?

It has interlocking metal plates inside it so it won't come apart even if the poly were to let go. Ron designed the thing years ago so I'm sure there are people with lots of years on them and no issues.

[gnosez]

As I mentioned earlier you can sandwich the diff between the OEM and RT mounts.

Between Roostmonkey, Z-Ya, my car and the race car we have not had one issue and we drive our cars very, very hard. Two are turbo cars with over 300hp@rws and the race car gets the snot beat out of it 10 times a year.

[Zs-ondabrain]

Can't remember it this has been done or not but here's a link to the R/T Mount Group buy. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=308020#post308020

As of 11/24/09 there are 14 left. You snooze you lose. Not sure if I'll do it again or not.

Dave

[Travel'n Man]

I thought I would add a note to this thread, after 2 years of having my R/T mount and bushings - I have not had any noise of any kind at all - this is the fix for my clunk!

[Diseazd]

Ditto Mitchell.......I've got it in 3 out of 4 of my Z's......works perfect. I need 1 more.....Any chance Dave makes another batch?

[Mike B]

Ditto Mitchell.......I've got it in 3 out of 4 of my Z's......works perfect. I need 1 more.....Any chance Dave makes another batch?

They should still be available. A friend of mine had more of these made and is selling them powdercoated and with a bump stop for $60 + $12 S/H on his website http://www.technoversions.com/DiffMountHome.html

-Mike