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Everything posted by jmortensen

  1. Look at what vintage racers do for some guidance. I think it's the vented front rotor with Toy 4x4 calipers that they're allowed to use. Rear is some combo of ZX parts IIRC. Fits fine under 14s or 15s. I've got 12.2" WIlwoods under 15s, but they're steel rims. You can fit them under a few aluminum wheels, but you'd have to be really careful about fitment.
  2. There are many, many threads on the subject over at hybridz.org. I only became a fan of American cars around the time the C5 Vettes came out. Prior to that they hadn't made anything I would buy for the last 30 or 40 years, so I don't have a whole lot of expertise, but I can say that any of the newer LS based engines will make good power compared to your L6, the T56 transmission is heavy but durable for 300-400 hp, and John's Cars makes a kit that seems like a bolt in deal. Always happy to answer questions if I can, I'm pretty new to all of this though...
  3. Really sorry to hear about this, and hope you figure out a way to keep it. Somebody is going to say this next bit, so it might as well be me. You could swap in an LS engine for less than the cost of another Rebello motor, and if something happened to it a replacement would be comparatively cheap. I have an aluminum 5.3 that I bought for $1100 with 30K miles. 315hp stock, but with cam, headers, rod bolts and I'm hoping to put about 350 to the wheels and I should have over 350 ft/lbs at 2000 rpm. I have less in this motor than I did in my E31 head which I had many many hours into myself, that ended up making ~240whp.
  4. Pretty good video for anyone interested, takes it a little farther than I did with the belt sander:
  5. The source of the problem is that the bushing is wider than the sleeve that goes through it. It might not be when you look at it on your workbench, but when installed in the control arm, the sleeve will be 1/16" or 1/8" shorter than the unloaded bushing. When you tighten down the bolt it squeezes the poly bushing between the control arm and the xmember and its that pressure applied to the bushing that creates the huge amount of friction between the bushing and the sleeve, leaving it unable to rotate easily. John's nylock solution undoubtedly works to reduce the friction and make the suspension work better, but it may also let the sleeve rotate, so essentially the suspension is now pivoting on the control arm bolt itself instead of the bushing moving on the sleeve and the bolt locking the sleeve down securely. I'd fix it a different way: sand the ends of the bushing down - belt sander is great for this - until it is just about the same length as the sleeve that goes through it (when installed in the control arm). Now you can tighten the bolt to spec and the bushing works as intended. Also a good idea to drill a hole and install a zerk in the control arm so that you can grease the bushing later on. One way or the other, it's worth dealing with it. If the control arm is that hard to move, then they won't be reacting as quickly or accurately to smaller bumps on the pavement, nor will they allow the suspension to extend into dips.
  6. My first car sat for years. Somebody told me to use an onion to clean the glass, literally cut it in half and rub on the window. I HATE onions, but it did cut through the nasty film on the glass. Read recently to use Bon Ami cleaner on glass. That worked but it wasn't as fantastic as I was hoping.
  7. Thanks guys. It is A LOT louder and meaner sounding in person. Maybe some of that had to do with the fact that it was inside the shop. Would have pulled it out but it was raining and I have no e-brake. I gotta admit, it's going to be a little intimidating driving it the first time...
  8. Pretty excited. First start up of my 5.3L autocross 240Z http://youtu.be/btKLxaNgG5U
  9. jmortensen


    Here's another one: https://sites.google.com/site/zlalomz/imsagtuz
  10. Put a bunch of small parts from this car and some other stuff I had laying around the garage on ebay. Just added more stuff today: mortensen.jon | eBay
  11. I dove into this thing yesterday, and I think people may have been seeing something in the pics that I wasn't seeing up close. I'd say more than half of the bolts I've tried to remove have sheared off. Started pulling the fenders and rust just poured out from behind them. It's weird. Hardly a bubble on the outside, but the inside is just completely gone. With that in mind I'm scaling back my plans cutting some of the good stuff off (rear quarters)and dumping the shell. The motor had water in 4 and 6 I think it was, so the valves and seats are rusty, but it is looking good in the coolant passages, where the E31 typically corrodes a lot. The head is worth using for sure.
  12. Nobody has even given me a nibble on this thing, so I'm taking it apart. Will try again before it goes to the JY to offer the chassis less the parts I've removed and the short block (#'s match, I verified that) for $200. That's what the JY will give me, and I'd rather it be saved. It will have no suspension on it, so it will need to be dragged onto a trailer. Done that before by screwing a couple 2x4s to the floor on another car, worked fine. Anyway if anyone is interested in parts off of this shell (Blue), email me at mortensenjone AT gmail DOT com. I'm on a bunch of forums and lists and I think email will help to keep everything straight.
  13. Well, here it is: 1970 240Z rolling chassis, 1970, $ 1,000.00 $1000 for the chassis, or $1350 for the chassis with my rotisserie and an engine hoist and load leveler. I also have the hatch, doors, hood and a bunch of other miscellaneous parts from my 70 that weren't used on my race car, so I'd be willing to make a deal to include some of that stuff if interested.
  14. Either of the 280ZX rear disc setups work. I had the early caliper setup on my Z. It was way too weak for the Toy front calipers, but it will actually fit under a 13" rim. I believe the later 280ZX disc also fits 13's, not positive. I'm sure there are other options.
  15. Is his name Ian? He saw the pics and was pretty excited, then when he realized how much was missing the enthusiasm waned. This is a rolling chassis. Good project for a person with a rotted 240/260/early 280 with the parts to swap over and make a whole car.
  16. Update, rust in battery tray, in rear hatch area, and pass side floor just ahead of the seat bracket (decent size hole in the floor).
  17. #6301, just picked it up expecting to strip parts off of it and junk it. Has the original motor (I assume) with E31 which doesn't look like it has been cut. Trans is in the passenger compartment. No interior outside of pedals and the heater. No hood, no hatch, no doors. Sounds great, right. Now for the good part. This thing is really solid! It was kind of rolled up on top of a little tiny hill, and I guess that kept the rain off for the most part. Frame is very straight, just a dent on the passenger's side rail and a dent in the pass floor. Never jacked up on the fenders in front, and they look like they have almost no rust at all. Rear quarters are also surprisingly rust free. There are some bubbles here and there, but when I got it on the trailer I was pretty shocked at how nice it is. Don't know what this would be worth. Never tried to sell a low rust series 1 roller with a sunroof. What do you think?
  18. The FI comparison isn't a good one. Carbs can run pretty much any cam, although the specs on the cam will vary how the car runs in a particular rpm range. Wasn't able to find a "Far 311" cam by googling. I would suspect a carb tuning issue like balance, which causes low rpm issues or maybe a needle and seat misalignment issue or something like that. I ran basically stock SUs with stock, high lift low duration, and a medium sized .490/280 cam and the car ran great with all three on stock 70 needles (which I don't think are available anymore).
  19. If it isn't greaseable, don't grease it. Most greaseable U-joints are weaker because they either have a threaded hole drilled in the cross to mount the zerk or the cross is hollow to get the grease to the bearings. Non-greaseable U-joints are the way to go if you have an option.
  20. A gear set will be next to impossible to find. A 3.70 differential is easy to find. I believe most (all?) Z31 300ZXs came with 3.70s.
  21. To be fair, John, they used to actually have street races right there on the weekends. I don't know if you were ever there at the Rock Store in the 80's. They would hold traffic coming down, two bikes would line up and they would race to the viewsite where the camera was in that Harley video up on top. Wagers, the whole thing. My brother used to take me and we'd watch for a couple hours. Now it's just yuppies on parade. Go back at 3 AM and the cops are gone, BTW. That's when the real stupidity happens, and I say that as a guy who rolled a car off Decker about 1/2 mile from there at 3 AM.
  22. Mulholland is alright. There are much better roads in that area. Stunt, Latigo, Decker, Tuna Cyn, Encinal, etc. I think Mulholland is easy to access from LA, so the street racer kids would run up that way and that's where it got its reputation.
  23. I buy GM trucks because they're powerful and reliable. I wouldn't personally buy a Cobalt, but I've autoxed a turbo one and it was faster than my Miata by a few seconds and was fun to drive too. I wouldn't turn down a new Vette or Camaro either...
  24. Yes, it is common enough to bring a spare. On a 240 you just need 2 14mm wrenches, but I think some of the later cars had the stub that plugs into the diff as part of the halfshaft. Not sure if that applies to 260s or not.
  25. Just to clarify, my company sold driveline parts, we didn't do driveline work. But that shaft came from preith, who built it for use in his race car but never used it.
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