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Making twin turbo 240Z - need advice


AggieZ

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Come on guys. This is obviously some youngster's pipe dream. The first post in this thread is the last time he posted on this site to date. Not one answer from him on any of the suggestions/opinions etc. Maybe he took the advice and went to HybridZ.

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I'm learning. I'll have more questions down the line as this progreses.

I'm keeping the L24 engine.

I'm a fast learner and a patient builder.

Holy crap. I had no idea the word 'patient' had different meanings until I did a spell check with a defenition.... ironicly, I think both defenitions will apply. :laugh:

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If you do a turbo, try to keep it under 8psi. This motor was not designed with a turbo in mind, and even with a lot of work and money, it still isn't the best designed motor for a turbo. You should be safe under 8psi, but anymore then that and you are going to have some hard times ahead of you extremely fast.

Plus just doing turbo work on this engine, you are going to have to do a lot of custom work, and have access to all kinds of crazy tools.

Plus, I am sure that it would be way hell of cheaper to buy an $4,500 RB26DETT with say a $1,000 installation price.

What I would do is take the current L24 motor out and get it cleaned up at the machine shop. Do a 0.010 bore on the vavles so drop in 280z valves for better air/exhaust flow, stage II cam, tuned S.U. or tripple Webers, and an LB20 (?) diesel crank with a slight overbore for L26 pistons and be able to achieve 2.8/2.9L

I have never seen this done before, motor will run strong, be one of a kind, and should push tons more power then a turbo setup.

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I'd really like to know where this "8 PSI" myth was started from, because its just that a "myth".

I've seen plenty of engines, not the L24 specifically, but many others, with proper tuning run fine with 10, 12 even 15 PSIG of boost pressure.

On the flip side I've seen engines with much less boost blow up due to poor tuning.

Building this set-up can be done for MUCH less than the $5500 price tag of a different engine and install. I've built an engine AND turbocharged it for $2200 CDN (at the time that would have been about $1300 USD), including a new 3 core rad, and some other supporting changes. This engine, with no tuning produced 218 HP and 270 Ft/Lbs at the rear wheels through a manual tranny and 3.73 open diff. With proper tuning it would have been closer to 300 HP at the wheels. If I knew then what I know now I would have been able to make more power.

The most "crazy tool" that is needed is a welder, doesn't even have to be a 'fancy TIG' welder it can be a MIG welder, hell I've seen some people use flux core wire to build turbo systems. Some people use a cheap flux core welder to tack it all together and then have it professionally welded.

Planned out well this can be done for a decent price, planned poorly and it can costs a lot more.

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If you tune the engine right for a turbo, it will be way more pricey then an RB that can double and triple your HP stock.

If everything is done corretly, sure the engine can handle a bit more boost, but even at Hybridz it is only recommened to run a turbo through the turbo block because of thicker walls and a better cooling jacket.

L24 just isn't up for the fight imo, and sure it will take 12pis or whatever but it will not live even with performance and turbo ready internals.

8psi might be a myth, but it seems respectable compared to some outragous number. 8psi done right can add LOADS of power with some engines wouldn't be able to handle.

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If you tune the engine right for a turbo, it will be way more pricey then an RB that can double and triple your HP stock.

Doubtful. I'm sure I could pull off a complete turbo install on an L24 for MUCH less than $5500, tuned properly, Probably closer to the $1500 mark, $2000 if I have to buy some new parts, who knows, maybe even cheaper, depending on the route that I would want to take, max HP, decent driveabilty or some where in between. Hell I'm thinking about doing it on my '73 for this summer (when I get it), I just have to decide if it's worth the effort to mess around with the L24 that's in it now, or just wait and put the effort into the planned engine upgrade with a pair of turbos. I have a turbo from a 6.5L diesel that's just begging to be used. ROFL

If everything is done corretly, sure the engine can handle a bit more boost, but even at Hybridz it is only recommened to run a turbo through the turbo block because of thicker walls and a better cooling jacket.

That may be true, but there is work that can be done to the block to strengthen it.

L24 just isn't up for the fight imo, and sure it will take 12pis or whatever but it will not live even with performance and turbo ready internals.

8psi might be a myth, but it seems respectable compared to some outragous number. 8psi done right can add LOADS of power with some engines wouldn't be able to handle.

I haven't found an engine that can't handle 8 to 10 PSIG tuned properly, not one.

Most people will be happy with even 4 PSIG for a while, but there's always the more bug.

Turbocharging an engine be it single or twin is not that difficult, and doesn't have to be expensive when planned out well.

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Well, if I did a turbo I would rebuild the entire motor, put in 280z vavles which requires a bore for the better air flow, a new performance cam with new parts (rockers, springs, ect.) new pistons, new rods, 280zxt oil pump and a eletric fuel pump.

All that right there will cost well over $1500. Even the cam stuff costs pretty close to $1000.

That is just the way that I would do it. If I am in there, I would want it done good and right the first time with new parts inside and out.

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If you're worried about cooling, use the performance radiator from MSA, and an oil cooler kit, and this will keep the engine way under temp, even turbo'd out. The reasons why you see the "no more than xxpsi for this engine," is because of theoratical values with stock seals blowing out over a certain PSI. If rebuild properly, and use the P90 head for it was made for the higher air flows for turbos, and you could even sleeve the cylinders if you're worried about them blowing out, and you should be fine.

Justin

Yes, I've been doing a little online research for I plan on putting a turbo in my Z, but its a couple of years down the road.

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If you do a turbo, try to keep it under 8psi. This motor was not designed with a turbo in mind, and even with a lot of work and money, it still isn't the best designed motor for a turbo. You should be safe under 8psi, but anymore then that and you are going to have some hard times ahead of you extremely fast.

I have never seen this done before, motor will run strong, be one of a kind, and should push tons more power then a turbo setup.

Please explain to me why i'm running at 17 psi and the only reason i'm not running in the 25psi range is that i have an older Electromotive computer.

No 2.8 N/A L motor will make more power that a 2.4 with a pinwheel.Period.

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Please explain to me why i'm running at 17 psi and the only reason i'm not running in the 25psi range is that i have an older Electromotive computer...

"3.1 Turbo The only thing stock on the car is the doors & roof"

Might have something to do with it.. Last I checked a 3.1 wasn't a stock 2.4...and a 3.1 was a little bigger than a 2.8.

Will

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"3.1 Turbo The only thing stock on the car is the doors & roof"

Might have something to do with it.. Last I checked a 3.1 wasn't a stock 2.4...and a 3.1 was a little bigger than a 2.8.

Will

Will,please tell me exactly what part of"No N/A 2.8 L motor will make more power than a 2.4 with a pinwheel"you didn't understand?

My 3.1 has nothing to do with the equation.

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Bill,

If you look at what I quoted, "Please explain to me why i'm running at 17 psi and the only reason i'm not running in the 25psi range is that i have an older Electromotive computer..." you will see that ""No N/A 2.8 L motor will make more power than a 2.4 with a pinwheel"" had absolutely nothing to do with it. My comment was solely to address exactly what I quoted, as to why you were able to run 17 psi...

My point is you obviously have a modified engine, and the modifications might go a long way to explain how you are able to run higher boost. Try that on an upopened and original 2400 and you will likely have a blown head gasket(if you're lucky)-or worse pretty quickly.

If I were to comment on "No N/A 2.8 L motor will make more power than a 2.4 with a pinwheel" I can prove that to be wrong.

A properly tuned NA L28 could and will make more power than a poorly tuned l24 even with the addition of a turbo, that is to say if you slap a "pinwheel" on a finely tuned L24 with out changing anything else, the engine will go lean and die before it gets above the power curve of a similarly fine tuned L28. Funny thing about making assumptions...

If both engines are properly tuned for their test, I'll agree with you.

Will

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