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I also used an electric knife on my seat foam and it worked just fine.

Thank you. I don't have a website. But I do have a switch with a repaired circuit board that I can shoot close up pix of and detail the repair process so folks at home can attempt the repair themselves. I wouldn't dream of trying to capitalize on something I am passing along for the fun of it. Stay tuned.

You can put your web site link in your sig. Probably help your advertising if you posted a picture of a repaired circuit board. We all like to look at stuff like that. Go to account Settings and Signature and put some stuff in the box. Click Save and it shows up underneath all of your posts.

Man, I should have kept my bucket of bolts from years of salvage yard parts picking. Prices are ridiculous. Forgot to say also that we've all been so trained to go directly to an internet search engine that we've forgotten about the local dealership parts department (no offense intended, I just know that's how I've been retrained). If you get the right guy, someone whose been around a while, they will know how to search nationwide inventory and get it sent. On the other hand, if you get some fresh rookie you'll have to guide them through how to search using a part number. I went through this recently with a different brand of car. Worth a call or two. Courtesy Nissan used to be the go-to place for old Nissan parts but they have faded away. Worthless today, their web site doesn't even work correctly.

Z Car Depot has done a good job if building his parts variety. Looks like they have what you need. Looks like you can spend a bundle by the time you get all of the bolts, washers, and nuts. I'd look around for used if it was mine. The Nissan parts are very durable. Z Car Depot IncAxle Driveshaft Half Shaft Bolt Special 240Z 260Z 280ZAxle Driveshaft Half Shaft Bolt Special 240Z 260Z 280Z New half shaft axle bolt. Will fit Datsun 240Z, 260Z and 280Z, 1970-78. These are bolts for the axle shaft to the outer stub axle at the wheel. T

Here's another site I've used before: https://www.nissanparts.cc/search?search_str=39628-E4100

There isn't a clickable link. NissanPartsDeal.com might be a better choice: https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-bolt-driveshaft~39628-e4100.html

Clean the turkey off and cut the seats up. I used one on my boat seats years ago.

I've seen people use an electric knife for cutting foam. I've not tried it, but it looked like it worked well.

Automotive upholster... I think the best tool for cutting foam is a hotwire cutter but that isn't for the faint of heart.

I swapped the seats in my 12/70 car for some seats I scored from a 77 280Z. I did the new foam from MSA and also did leather from Interior Innovation. The big reason was so I could have the extended tilt forward and back like I had in my 73 240Z. This makes access to the tools which are on the floor behind the seats in the early cars before they did the tool bins in the rear deck floor. When I was done I did find that I sat maybe an inch or so higher but I'm now used to it and I can see a little further down the hood. I'm only about 5'9" so I have no issue with my head clearance to the roof. Bottom line is I'm pleased with the swap and would do it again.

Has anybody gone on this website Vintage Datsun and Nissan parts and tried to purchase something recently. They have parts listed but no way to add them to my cart. I've sent them 3 emails since Sunday. No response.

Both the original tensioner and the new one have rubber type washers between the tensioner pad and it's housing.

Yes, I set mine as tight as possible end of the slot. My slot is on the top side pivots from the bottom. My original bolt had a flat washer to cover the slot. The oil Slinger is sitting in position same as your picture. I'm going to attempt to put the cover on today without removing the oil pan. Not sure if that's possible but I'm going to give it a whirl.

I made mine as tight as I could on the slack side, the one that curves. I pushed the tensioner in all the way and put a zip-tye on it then pushed the curved guide as tight as I could and tightened it down. For some reason I'm thinking there's a white plastic washer that goes on the tensioner between the housing and the pad but it's not visible in my picture. Maybe you can confirm that and don't forget the oil slinger that goes on the crank nose.

The timing chain Guide bar has a slot for adjusting tension. Is there an ideal tension to Set the guide at?

I completely agree that the quality of stainless steel makes a big difference, especially when it comes to durability. I’ve been researching different types of stainless steel for car parts, and I wanted to share a helpful resource. If you're interested in learning more about stainless steel, its types, and how it can affect the longevity of car parts, feel free to check out my website: [Stainless Steel ].

Seek and ye shall find! I was able to find it and jumper the connection. It was really burried at the back. For others coming to this thread, when looking at the two wire bundles from the passenger side it's connected to the one on the right. It splits off from that. (see pic with finger pointing to it) Just grab the smaller taped up bit coming off it and start pulling. The Nismo pump is a bit noisier than I'd like but I'm really happy none the less. Initial pressure on start up is around 6psi and then once it warmed up it dropped to 4 to 4.5psi. I've moved the red wire from the + side of the coil to the ballast and it runs. But, I've currently got a intermittent misfire on two cylinders. Number 2 and 5. I found them by attaching the timing light plug wire connector to them and the light flash wasn't consistent. I've ordered new NGK plug wires, plugs, cap and rotor. I'm not sure of the cap and rotor though. I went ahead and assumed they're for an L28 though I could be wrong. How can I identify the difference between a L24 distributor and one for an L28? I'm guessing they're not identical. I know the 240Z had points and the 280Z didn't. As the car has a L28 from 2000 I'm assuming they also threw in a later distributor with the Pertronix. I pulled the plugs and they were really sooty. I cleaned them with a wire brush and that didn't really help. I'm wondering if it's my ignition or if I'm just running super rich. Both of those are on the most direct line from the carbs and I'm assuming would be getting a more fuel than the other cylinders to their sides. Brakes also need to be fully bled as I've installed the 8.5" booster upgrade from JDM-Car-Parts and new master cylinder as well. So it drives and stops and can be driven around a parking lot or paint shop if need be.

OK. Just got the last of the plugs in. I like the M16 x 1.5 low headed plugs to fill the inside ports of the intake when one has removed the water heating. Purchased them from Belmetric.

I was thinking on buying that msa kit but now you are mentioning a problem with the molded seat!

I really appreciate that thank you. I was certain I did everything right I just didn't get to number (11) eleven. I saw your 2019 post and your mathematical computations Cheers

Now get some sleep. 🙂

And the magic number is 11 rotations of the cam, or 22 rotations of the crank. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/62752-bright-links-on-timing-chain-line-up-every-11-rotations/

The timing chain has the two-silver links and the top sprocket & the bottom of sprocket has little marks on them, and they need to line up, and I believe there's 42 links in between those two points. I did that & was 100 percent certain I was on top dead center # 1 and the crank wood drift key was pointing up; I assembled the new Sprockets guides and tensioner. One of the books I read said to rotate the motor two times making sure nothing's hitting which I rotated it multiple times got it back to top dead center, but I never did get my two-silver chain links to line up the way it did when I set it up originally. My guess is that's normal, but my intuition is confusing my thought process at the moment. Anybody can help me out so I can sleep tonight that would be appreciated.