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Hello, everyone. I am also a member of S30 World. I’m very happy to be a member of the team. Thank you Carl. Carl recommended me to Chris’s big project. In addition, I definitely thank Alan for promising to join the team because I am a member. Chris visited my house in 2018. I was very impressed that he was very sincere about all the variations of our car. And his dream was to establish and enrich the museum with cars that have received great restoration work. It’s all because of the Classic Zcar Club. We have been learning a lot from the people here. I’m making a lot of friends here. We are all connected in a simple way. Z. We know that there are no cars that have been restored 100% correctly. The S30 World is trying to restore the car close to 100% correct. Chris’s great passion is outstanding. Many enthusiasts have been involved in his project. It’s like magnets on the fridge. I think all the posts here are worth reading to make our beloved cars more beautiful. I think people who post here are like magnets too. As Florian said, we are simple. We want to enjoy the S30 more and spread the joy of our cars to the world. If you see the car at the S30 World Museum, you will surely like it. We need to correct the “100% correct” word into the appropriate word. But all the black painted floors and other little things are repaired in good faith, so even if we don’t fix it, you’ll like it. Oh, stay tune, I will report an interesting things regarding S30 World soon. Kats

Any of you guys have had a driveshaft made up. I need the name of a shop that does datsun driveshafts.

I don't see anything wrong with your marketing or terminology. 99.9% of people can see the detail and perfection of work that has gone into these cars. No-one expects God-like perfection. When you are king of the hill, you might have to kick a few people in the face as they try to knock you down.

No worries. You know me - I always like a good background story :-) I researched a bit. Ernst Seiler seemed to be a very illustrious person with a long Porsche racing history. I wasn't able to connect the dots between the two names, but it's very well possible. First I thought it was Heiko (Seiler) from Datsun.ch 's parents former Garage. But he confirmed that they only started in the late 70ies and the name was Garage Seiler in BE. The one mentioned in the booklet is from the AG Canton and the booklet is from the late 60ies or early 70ies, so it's possible that you are right. Interesting nevertheless. In Switzerland, during that period, there were many small, independent garages, but also some big names who quickly started to build large holdings based on small garages, gas stations, etc, and then became big names.

I don't really want to chime in here into this discussion, but I have seen the S30.world cars in real life, and talked a lot to the people behind it and all I can say is: - Those are the best restored Z's I have aver seen. And I have seen plenty of them over the years. - They make their own parts, where new ones are not available anymore, and those parts are the best reproduction parts I have seen, with real attention to details. - The team behind it is OBSESSED with small details and correctness. Down to things like the correct color and position of the bolt-marking dots. Everybody is free to have your own opinion, but I really recommend to check out the cars in real life and talk to the people behind it, and then only you can understand how many extra-miles these guys went to build some of the best restored 240Z's out there.

I don't have access to any cars at the moment to work a design out- the challenge would be to get a tight seal. It probably why my mate who has one said keep them out of the rain and if it is outside park it up hill. Think he was being a bit tongue in cheek.

That would be nice, only give me a heads up, the meter uses one big 1,5V battery and the new one that came in the case with it was a bit...empty! Luckely it wasn't IN the battery compartment as it was well rusted haha! The battery contacts have never seen a battery i think as they are flawless! Dit keer lag het wél aan de VARTA! ;-) Translated : This time it WAS the battery from VARTA that was dead! Once there was a commercial in the Netherlands of Varta that said: it can't be the battery because that's a VARTA! ;-) but they don't hold for 40+ years!

Excellent explanation of roof detailing and support. Proper flashing and sealing are key to preventing leaks and structural stress, especially around transitions and rafters.

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.

Your links are broken. Maybe create a Google Drive photo album and provide a link. Or just copy and paste them in to your post. You can do that on CZCC. And, if you can't get a picture up, a list of the accessories might help. All the way to the AFM, or back to just a water pump? Exhaust manifolds? Alternator? Good luck. Somebody will buy it.

Factory new (not rebuilt) L28 engine with all accessories for sale. It has been stored in a garage for 30 years (surface dirt) . Located in Southern California - Make me an offer.

I'm no expert but in the inertia switches I've installed I've mounted them to a hard point so any energy exerted on the unibody could be picked up by the switch.

To quote a favorite Stars Wars character, "Meesa no lie."

The frame rails (body stiffeners/subframe) are available. A not uncommon problem. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=frame+rail&type=best-selling The car has independent rear suspension. There are two drive shafts in the back and no single axle. The inspection probably identified a misaligned wheel. That could simply be worn control arm (transverse link) bushings. Or even spindle pin bushings. Also readily available. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=bushings&type=product One of the main problems with the AFM swaps is that the EFI system is designed for a certain range of air flow. Once the AFM flap is wide open there's no more control. Nissan adds 27% extra fuel at WOT, probably to compensate for that. Since you changed three/four things at once it might be worthwhile to go back to the original AFM and see how things are. Also, 28 psi at idle is not drastically low. Was the measurement taken with the engine running? There's always more tuning to do with the EFI system after they've sat unused for a while. Good luck.

Hoping someone out there, preferably in the Midwest, has a front & rear type 2 set for the ZX that they'd like to part with. Can be damaged/cracked as well. Would be willing to meet somewhere as well. Thanks.

So i got everything working. I found an issue, i dont know if this was from facotry or the previous owner changed the wiring harness for the headlights but the black/red wire for ground was wired to the center post for the headlights instead of the larger white/red which is how the 1977 wiring diagram shows. I changed everything and put new lights in and it works. However i need new connections because many of the connectors are completely broken and fragile.

Well Mike, you are one of my Masters.

That’s an awesome piece of kit! Once the car has been repair and on the road again I’ll come visit to test it out!

I agree with you, Captain, and patcon that I should avoid the B/W associated with the VR and coil as there will probably be enough issues with the electrics once I get everything back together and try starting the car. Running another 16 AWG wire into the engine bay isn't that big a deal. Excellent advice on an inertia switch, cgsheen1. Do you have a preferred brand and, perhaps more importantly, location for mounting such a device? I was once a passenger in a car that was forced head on into a concrete median barrier by an aggressive driver, thankfully the impact was at low speed, and its inertia switch operated. I recall the driver having to reach down near the E-brake pedal to reset it so we could continue on to our destination.

Route 66 Auctions wich is owned by E&R Classics in Waalwijk (The Netherlands). Honestly I don’t recommend ever buying a car through there auction. The bidding was vague and none transparent as you can’t see who bid on the car. I don’t need to know the bidders name but some reference or time stamped bidding history would have been nice as I strongly suspect the seller was driving the price up. The auction fee was also pretty high (9% + 21% tax on the 9% auction fee) especially for the lack of service and buyers protection the auction company offers. I already had contact with them over the phone, the guy told me to send an email to there administration and hung up on me. That was pretty rude but fine. So I emailed my findings to there administration and this morning I got an email in which they tell me “the condition of a vehicle can be subject to a persons perception”. I get this but then they shouldn’t have claimed the car was free of rust and structural damage. Basically they try and tell me to just get lost. This will be the first and last time I will ever buy a car from or through that company.

The special meter.. (Never used? and 40+ years old..)

Happy ending on the 280z injection, well done Mitchel! Repair on these injection systems can be opening a big can of worms! I hope to put my engine back into the car in the next 1-2 years and hopefully it wil still run as good as it came out but one never knows for sure.. I got myself a injection test meter for these systems original from Nissan/Datsun! So if you want to test your system with this special tool we can do that some time. Which auction house screwed you with the rustfree nonsens? Greetings from Limburg, Mart.

Good news! First off, the Ford/Mazda/Toyota (and so on) AFM actually works! In my opinion this is a huge win for everybody that wants to keep these cars alive. I started of by opening up the new AFM and having a look inside. To open the new AFM was a bit more difficult than the Datsun AFM as they used a ton of silicon sealant and plugged the idle air screw from factory. The sealant can be carefully removed with a knife and the plug can be drilled out to access the idle air screw. Inside the AFM looks a lot like the Datsun unit with the exact same functionality. The resistance values between pin 6-8 and 8-9 where higher then the Datsun AFM but I still hooked the AFM up to a 12 volt battery to check for the voltage outputs as that actually matters for the stock Datsun ECU. In stock configuration from the junkyard Ford (USA) Probe the AFM gave a reverse logarithmic signal range from 1,42 to 7,77 volt. Starting at 1,42 volts when the AFM is closed and then rising quickly to around 5 volts before slowly climbing up to 7,77 volts. This is within range of what I was expecting so I decided to try and install the AFM into the car to test it out and try and dial it in. The new AFM is significantly larger than the old Datsun AFM. To install the new AFM, the intake booth and the rubber booth between the AFM and throttle body, needed to strech over the larger AFM unit. Luckly both where flexible enough and didn’t tear. The stock electrical connector just plugs right in so that was great. The new AFM unit unfortunately doesn’t have bolt holes in the bottom like the Datsun unit but mounting can be fixed by a custom 3D printed or metal bracket. I just left mine loos as I just needed to test it for now and drive to the inspection station. I had to tighten the spring (clockwise) a bit more than the 3 teeth described in the Australian forum post but that may be due to my engine having other issues causing the car to run rich. After installing the car fired straight up and with a bit of tightening and loosening of the spring I got the car to run way better than before. One nice thing about the new AFM is that you can adjust the spring gear a lot easier. Just carefully lift the little arm to the left and use your finger or a flathead screwdriver to adjust the gear. Then just let the little arm go and make sure is seated properly (rotate the gear anti clockwise a bit to properly seat it). The blue mark was the original tooth position but in the picture I rotated the gear the wrong way. As a side note I did clean my injectors and replace the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. I also found out my AAR was faulty and leaking a lot of air past the valve so I disconnected that and plugged both sides of the hose. The cheap meter I installed said about 28psi which is low but as the car is running rich and not lean I will exclude the FPR and fuel pump as a problem for now. My injector are probably just bad which sucks but the car still runs good enough for now. I also replaced my Bosch spark plugs for NGK BR6ES with 1,05mm gap and a replaced my 1,5 Ohm ignition coil with a 0,6 Ohm one just in case. I had the car inspected yesterday and the CO gas values where down to 2,4% (4,5% allowed) and all other values where good so I’m happy. Although the car ended up failing due to rusted thru frame rails and a crooked rear axle probably caused by a twisted chassis. I started a legal dispute with the auction company and previous owner as the both sold the car as “without rust and free from structural damage” but that is something for another thread. This probably the end of this thread. Although feel free to revive it if somebody has any questions and I’ll try to help out. I believe that posting information like this will help massively to understand these cars and keep them alive .

Hi Nils, A name on that Swiss dealer list jumped straight out at me. I believe Rudolf Seiler of Fischbach was the brother of Ernst 'Hunter' Seiler of Romanshorn, a well-known Porsche dealer and racing driver from the late 1940s through to the late 60s. I guess car sales concessions ran in the family. Sorry for the digression!