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I'm a couple of hours away from the Z until Saturday so I need to check this list of potential problems this weekend. I was using the following procedure to test the uniLite: chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://documents.holley.com/a605_test.pdf I think the last time it failed with the voltage at 12 V with or without the LED blocked. Once it cooled, the voltage would drop and the car started right up. From an internet search it looks like the Mallory coil should have the following values: primary: 0.6ohms secondary: 11.3kohmf

Technics or tactics . They can be a MFers . I use the spot weld cutters you can buy cheaply anywhere . Predrill small hole for center pin and saw away . I did buy a pneumatic drill just for spot weld but it’s limited where it can be used . Finding the center of the spot weld helps to get all of the weld

I couldn’t close the gap but I could fill it . The reason I made the sleeves was to give me adjustment . Ideally it would have been the perfect gap for a bead of weld . Since the sleeves are close to 3” long I was able to weld it strongly and then cosmetically fill the gaps . I had left over A pillar material which I used to fill that .250” gap .

Well im going to send it to Power brake exchange. I do have this kind of symptoms om revs going up and down during traffic jams. Any way to check this before shipping it to Washington? Maybe a pressure suck gun?

Also: Please discuss your technique(s) for separating spot welds.

How did you close that .25" gap?

My Zed club had it's last group drive for the year, yesterday. My car gal girlfriend was my navigator, as we drove the twisty roads thru Glen Valley in North Langley. Great day.

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Never heard of s30 world collection, i saw some door seals earlier from them though, just thought they where selling parts. Seems they are close to me. Will take a look when I have some free time.

Hi all! I'm finally getting back to my motor swap and I picked up a 5 speed. It looked like the close ratio I was looking for (same case), but the ratios are wonky, so that sent me on a deep dive and discovered it is likely from a 720 with a 240 bell housing. The ratios are as follows: 1st - 3.592;1 2nd - 2.246;1 3rd - 1.415;1 4th - 1.000;1 5th - .813;1 My question is this; Anyone know of a source for the gearsets I would need to convert it to a true close-ratio? I am keeping my eyes open for a close-ratio, but they aren't as easy to find as they once were! I wish I had just bought one many years ago when they were more available! Thanks for any leads you guys might provide! Jeff

Here is an interesting one...... (12) Marketplace - 1970 Datsun 240z | Facebook

Yeah, I don’t think my 240Z bracket would work since the carb spacing is closer together on the L20. I need to hunt down someone near me with a 510 to prototype a kit.

It occurred to me today as I was reinstalling the dashboard (after 17 years) that because I have completely separate wiring for the Vintage Air HVAC system, I mighty just take the power intended for the OEM heater/blower and use that instead of finding a KEY-ON wire. Yes, I know that circuit is activated in the ig-switch's ACC position but because I don't have adolescents who will want to listen to the radio when the car is not running, that might be a good option.

Is it failing closed or open? Some voltage or no voltage? The ballast resistor has a coil of wire that adds the resistance. Might be failing open somewhere. Probably at a connection. Details of the test procedure might give some clues.

Not hard as I recall. Except for the clock, the overlays would slide over or under the needles to .get into position. I think I had to pull the hands off the clock bu they went back on easily. Because there is a reputable supplier offering them - Z Car Depot - you could email or call them for information. They've been very good getting back to me with my questions.

Just a (probably unnecessary) precaution. It's the same wire that runs to the voltage regulator, but it probably has more electrical noise the closer you get to the coil. Even though it's the same wire, there's some filtering that will occur as a result of the natural inductance and capacitance that will exist in the length of wire over on the other side of the engine compartment. I wouldn't be surprised if the voltage dips more (when the points are closed) over by the coil than it would over at the regulator. And the voltage will blip higher when the points open closer to the coil than by the regulator. Even though it's the same wire. Again, probably doesn't really matter if you're just hanging a relay on it, but if given a choice, I'd tap in as far from the coil as would be convenient.

That's a nice neat repair

Were the overlays hard to do? Problems with bubbles or wrinkles? Get needles on or off?

I have the 1972 body and engine FSMs, which I've had since 1972 (purchased from BRE and now installed in 3-ring binders with each page lovingly protected), but the body one doesn't have anywhere near the level of detail as some of the illustrations that have been presented in this thread. I'll check out what's on the site.

First project after getting the roof attached was the passenger front fender support . I had cut up two 240z’s years ago and had a whole front clip left. No easy way to do this either .I was tempted to buy the sections from KF so I wouldn’t have to disassemble the front clip . In the end it worked out .

I got those on eBay back in December of 2010 from a fellow named Jason Ellis (jasmaster1@yahoo.com). I don't know if he is still active there but here is a currently active listing there for the gauge overlays (https://www.ebay.com/itm/116754738195?_skw=240Z+gauges&itmmeta=01K6VECE8NHA8V1JRWG7KECTFX&hash=item1b2f1fec13:g:HYIAAeSw8fdosIdf&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1f7RDWuP4ip3L0xi8Epcs3MGzRnIDxeRpwRTiJTFo%2FyXhMMsfddLn9Ap%2BvCn%2FGIN7AmIPoYfEWRqx3LB%2Fb6vtgs1LiOt5M%2FxbtHCoHbKvaiVhw88gQ%2FXqNsLGyyDOluqQraCdGuUIvEXpINFE6kLubse8%2BlZzyix9Z0uWrrXO5tkWb9pzBDEuh0sjE%2FAYFzMlq8Eno8bfz8eo23vQRsM6D91r88a95CHj9SIRMV4k31WB5gT629KVQ75UisBeYw%2FCU%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9zkse62Zg). I just saw that Z Car Depot also has these overlays on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/333353236584?_skw=240Z+gauge+overlays&itmmeta=01K6VERGB27HD9RGDN98R029CQ&hash=item4d9d66b868:g:IT0AAOSwKA5bx61X&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA0FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e7wRbXJooQ7dodz55p%2FpfL3%2FDnI4KnIpEfg3F3lVeIRyEHeGgeVSHLqgbLDNDlk6GrqecMFTnyKkJMHxl2%2B5udEItKajJaOrn%2FBoiCSmcgSJn4Z6nYMS7V4iBywuzLaKtHbfHwXjdriTm7vfNRE4B4%2FIozubXeyBv1%2FUg%2By1bjHqNT4EMrXUYBymvBGdZxGrJ5CgNM8HF7LJ7MMqeYqRiTSXWaimnbZLBgGt%2BIsW5Uic4skEvPTSgm69RN3BRwRm0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-CF4u62Zg). I hope that helps you.

And the ballast resistor might have a short. It's part of the total resistance on the primary circuit, that passes through the module to ground.

Temp choke cables New problem, taller motor means the mechanical throttle linkage won't work I was wondering if the 240z cable conversion would work @KenFirch

Have you measured resistance through the coil? Too much current through the module might be overheating it. Might have a bad coil.

More random pics after running the 911