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Do the half shafts in 1975 have replaceable ujoints or are they stakes like the driveshaft?

The good shops can find the specs or just take measurements. And there are aftermarket propeller shafts out there. Nissan calls the center longitudinal shaft propeller and the two "half-shafts" drive. You need to be aware of one big problem with 1975 though - Nissan used a unique flange bolt pattern on the differental. 76, 77, and 78 won't work on a 75. Motorsport Auto (TheZStore) knows, on their Replacement page. But not on their Performance page. Oops. https://www.thezstore.com/category/935/replacement-driveshafts Don't buy a Performance shaft from MSA. https://www.thezstore.com/category/827/performance-driveshafts

It looks about right. If you pull on the lever that the cable attaches to you'll see how it works. Each time you pull the parking brake lever that arm over the notched/toothed wheel moves over the teeth. As the brake shoes wear eventually the end of the arm catches one of the teeth and rotates the tightening mechanism, making it longer. When it's assembled correctly the end of the arm sits right on the teeth. An illustration of your picture is in the Brakes chapter.

I recently replaced my rear drum brake hardware but forgot to take a picture before disassembling everything. Can someone confirm if this is how the parking brake lever is supposed to be installed? I’m also not entirely sure how the lever functions in the mechanism. It looks like it might not be mounted correctly — should the lever sit on the right side of the cog wheel? When I place it there, it seems to keep slipping off toward the left side. Any clarification or reference photo would really help. This is the drivers side of the car

Hello, everyone. I am also a member of S30 World. I’m very happy to be a member of the team. Thank you Carl. Carl recommended me to Chris’s big project. In addition, I definitely thank Alan for promising to join the team because I am a member. Chris visited my house in 2018. I was very impressed that he was very sincere about all the variations of our car. And his dream was to establish and enrich the museum with cars that have received great restoration work. It’s all because of the Classic Zcar Club. We have been learning a lot from the people here. I’m making a lot of friends here. We are all connected in a simple way. Z. We know that there are no cars that have been restored 100% correctly. The S30 World is trying to restore the car close to 100% correct. Chris’s great passion is outstanding. Many enthusiasts have been involved in his project. It’s like magnets on the fridge. I think all the posts here are worth reading to make our beloved cars more beautiful. I think people who post here are like magnets too. As Florian said, we are simple. We want to enjoy the S30 more and spread the joy of our cars to the world. If you see the car at the S30 World Museum, you will surely like it. We need to correct the “100% correct” word into the appropriate word. But all the black painted floors and other little things are repaired in good faith, so even if we don’t fix it, you’ll like it. Oh, stay tune, I will report an interesting things regarding S30 World soon. Kats

Any of you guys have had a driveshaft made up. I need the name of a shop that does datsun driveshafts.

I don't see anything wrong with your marketing or terminology. 99.9% of people can see the detail and perfection of work that has gone into these cars. No-one expects God-like perfection. When you are king of the hill, you might have to kick a few people in the face as they try to knock you down.

No worries. You know me - I always like a good background story :-) I researched a bit. Ernst Seiler seemed to be a very illustrious person with a long Porsche racing history. I wasn't able to connect the dots between the two names, but it's very well possible. First I thought it was Heiko (Seiler) from Datsun.ch 's parents former Garage. But he confirmed that they only started in the late 70ies and the name was Garage Seiler in BE. The one mentioned in the booklet is from the AG Canton and the booklet is from the late 60ies or early 70ies, so it's possible that you are right. Interesting nevertheless. In Switzerland, during that period, there were many small, independent garages, but also some big names who quickly started to build large holdings based on small garages, gas stations, etc, and then became big names.

I don't really want to chime in here into this discussion, but I have seen the S30.world cars in real life, and talked a lot to the people behind it and all I can say is: - Those are the best restored Z's I have aver seen. And I have seen plenty of them over the years. - They make their own parts, where new ones are not available anymore, and those parts are the best reproduction parts I have seen, with real attention to details. - The team behind it is OBSESSED with small details and correctness. Down to things like the correct color and position of the bolt-marking dots. Everybody is free to have your own opinion, but I really recommend to check out the cars in real life and talk to the people behind it, and then only you can understand how many extra-miles these guys went to build some of the best restored 240Z's out there.

I don't have access to any cars at the moment to work a design out- the challenge would be to get a tight seal. It probably why my mate who has one said keep them out of the rain and if it is outside park it up hill. Think he was being a bit tongue in cheek.

That would be nice, only give me a heads up, the meter uses one big 1,5V battery and the new one that came in the case with it was a bit...empty! Luckely it wasn't IN the battery compartment as it was well rusted haha! The battery contacts have never seen a battery i think as they are flawless! Dit keer lag het wél aan de VARTA! ;-) Translated : This time it WAS the battery from VARTA that was dead! Once there was a commercial in the Netherlands of Varta that said: it can't be the battery because that's a VARTA! ;-) but they don't hold for 40+ years!

Excellent explanation of roof detailing and support. Proper flashing and sealing are key to preventing leaks and structural stress, especially around transitions and rafters.

I bow to you good sir and have no further skepticism. And not only that, but according to the FSM, you clearly followed the recommended test procedures. I am impressed!

The right-hand plastic "pin" that functions at a pivot for the fuse box cover is broken off on BOTH of my 1972 cars. There is a thread in the Interior topic from July 2010 where it was suggested to simply drill out the divot left behind and epoxy in a short section of rod made from either plastic or wood. So far, so good. However, if my memory serves me, there is also some kind of V-shaped spring that goes on that pin to hold the cover open. And, I'm sure the right-hand pin is longer than the left-hand pin. Can someone either confirm or correct my memory of a spring as well as measuring the length of the pin? BTW, that white electrical connector in the photo is for one of the switches controlling my power windows.

Your links are broken. Maybe create a Google Drive photo album and provide a link. Or just copy and paste them in to your post. You can do that on CZCC. And, if you can't get a picture up, a list of the accessories might help. All the way to the AFM, or back to just a water pump? Exhaust manifolds? Alternator? Good luck. Somebody will buy it.

Factory new (not rebuilt) L28 engine with all accessories for sale. It has been stored in a garage for 30 years (surface dirt) . Located in Southern California - Make me an offer.

I'm no expert but in the inertia switches I've installed I've mounted them to a hard point so any energy exerted on the unibody could be picked up by the switch.

To quote a favorite Stars Wars character, "Meesa no lie."

The frame rails (body stiffeners/subframe) are available. A not uncommon problem. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=frame+rail&type=best-selling The car has independent rear suspension. There are two drive shafts in the back and no single axle. The inspection probably identified a misaligned wheel. That could simply be worn control arm (transverse link) bushings. Or even spindle pin bushings. Also readily available. https://zcardepot.com/search?q=bushings&type=product One of the main problems with the AFM swaps is that the EFI system is designed for a certain range of air flow. Once the AFM flap is wide open there's no more control. Nissan adds 27% extra fuel at WOT, probably to compensate for that. Since you changed three/four things at once it might be worthwhile to go back to the original AFM and see how things are. Also, 28 psi at idle is not drastically low. Was the measurement taken with the engine running? There's always more tuning to do with the EFI system after they've sat unused for a while. Good luck.

Hoping someone out there, preferably in the Midwest, has a front & rear type 2 set for the ZX that they'd like to part with. Can be damaged/cracked as well. Would be willing to meet somewhere as well. Thanks.

So i got everything working. I found an issue, i dont know if this was from facotry or the previous owner changed the wiring harness for the headlights but the black/red wire for ground was wired to the center post for the headlights instead of the larger white/red which is how the 1977 wiring diagram shows. I changed everything and put new lights in and it works. However i need new connections because many of the connectors are completely broken and fragile.

Well Mike, you are one of my Masters.

That’s an awesome piece of kit! Once the car has been repair and on the road again I’ll come visit to test it out!

I agree with you, Captain, and patcon that I should avoid the B/W associated with the VR and coil as there will probably be enough issues with the electrics once I get everything back together and try starting the car. Running another 16 AWG wire into the engine bay isn't that big a deal. Excellent advice on an inertia switch, cgsheen1. Do you have a preferred brand and, perhaps more importantly, location for mounting such a device? I was once a passenger in a car that was forced head on into a concrete median barrier by an aggressive driver, thankfully the impact was at low speed, and its inertia switch operated. I recall the driver having to reach down near the E-brake pedal to reset it so we could continue on to our destination.

Route 66 Auctions wich is owned by E&R Classics in Waalwijk (The Netherlands). Honestly I don’t recommend ever buying a car through there auction. The bidding was vague and none transparent as you can’t see who bid on the car. I don’t need to know the bidders name but some reference or time stamped bidding history would have been nice as I strongly suspect the seller was driving the price up. The auction fee was also pretty high (9% + 21% tax on the 9% auction fee) especially for the lack of service and buyers protection the auction company offers. I already had contact with them over the phone, the guy told me to send an email to there administration and hung up on me. That was pretty rude but fine. So I emailed my findings to there administration and this morning I got an email in which they tell me “the condition of a vehicle can be subject to a persons perception”. I get this but then they shouldn’t have claimed the car was free of rust and structural damage. Basically they try and tell me to just get lost. This will be the first and last time I will ever buy a car from or through that company.