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I have already ordered some new vacuum lines just in case as some of them seem a bit hard and if one cracks it can cause a lot of problems. But as far as I’ve seen my vacuum should be fine. My AFM unit did seem pretty dirty on the inside so I was thinking of cleaning it in a ultrasonic cleaner with an electronics friendly cleaner. Also somebody did have the AFM open at some point in time but I don’t know if they messed with the gears inside. I do have a pretty good understanding of the 280z EFI system and the inner workings of the components so I’m not afraid to touch the AFM unit but I would still like to ask for some tips and directions to look at. All in all the entire engine needed a tune up as many contacts where slightly corroded or out of spec and I suspect the car was "tuned" at some point as it has an aftermarket O2 and crank angle sensor, neither one hooked up to anything. The car runs way better now but it’s still running too rich. My vacuum lines should come in this week and I’ll do some more component testing and cleaning before I start messing with the AFM itself.

I’ve had amazing success with Amayama. Once you have found the correct/ superceded part number you basically type it in. If there is a chance they can find it they search first and then request payment. Shipping is amazingly fast.

I hit 70 mph today. Seemed to like it just fine. Not sure how it would like it for ten hours, but it seemed to like it for five minutes. Temps started creeping up a little, which is somewhat disconcerting since it was a cool evening. I have previously been through a (critter induced) radiator calamity, but was hoping it was mitigated to the point of being OK. Maybe I still need to do more... Running out of time!!!

Roo, Awesome. Thanks for checking, and I'm pleased that it is flat side up. I've tried both, and it fit's better flat side up. So despite the fact that it may "look better" with the rounded side up, I'm happy that it's actually supposed to be the other way.. Thanks again!!

In our experience it was generally bearings - mainly the one under the reverse idler - and not usually gears or baulk rings - except maybe the reverse idler. Many of the same bearings were used in the "B" transmissions. If you replace baulk rings (which I would avoid unless there's obvious damage to them), lap them to make sure they move freely when cold... Ask me how I know (and how cold does it get in Arizona?).

If the problem is synchros grinding it might be worth a shot to try Pennzoil Synchromesh. If it's bearings that another story. If it's both try the Synchromesh to see if it stops the grinding and put in new bearings if you can't find the synchros. Some thoughts. You did say possibility.

@jfa.series1 I've had good luck getting all the parts through amayama, partsouq or nissan parts deal. You'll have to assemble the kit yourself, that's what I did.

Something's wrong with the first listing. Broken link. The $589 is "Buy it now" and the other is an auction, with three bids to $56. I don't know if EBay auctions have a reserve or not. I'd guess maybe the seller can just not complete the deal? From what I've seen, the way to set a reserve on eBay is to set the reserve as the minimum bid to beat. Maybe he forgot or doesn't know to do that. The $589 is $539 with a coupon.

http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/IMG_9860.jpg WE LOVE RACING! Classic Sports Racing Group (CSRG) is hosting the Sears Point Challenge at Sonoma Raceway, October 3-5. Z Car Garage is participating and supporting several client’s Datsun 510 race cars running in B-Sedan Group. This vintage racing event is totally FREE to spectators so please join us! Bring the family, enjoy cool cars and charity rides around the track. Attention DRIVERS: there is still time to register to race! Sign up HERE. http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/09/510255373-1272423368226503-5578166857124943186-n_orig.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/06/IMG_2779.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0067-1-e1665112285742-1024x614.jpg Again, admission is FREE for this event and you will have access to all spectator areas on track, race cars and drivers. You can see our report from the 2024 Charity Challenge HERE Z Car Garage Supports Five Datsun 510s! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/IMG_5585-1024x768.jpg It is our pleasure to bring more enthusiasts into the world of vintage racing. Our services do include full race support and car-preparation to help make client’s race days seamless and worry-free so they can focus on driving. One of our specialties is dyno tuning. Before a race weekend we confirm that your car is running well and make necessary adjustments while on the chassis dyno: #88 Todd Rueppel Todd enjoyed his Z Car Garage trackside support experience with us at the Laps For Laguna event! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/IMG_0094-1024x768.jpg #7 Kelvin Tse Kelvin and his brother Kenny are regular ZCG trackside support clients… http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/IMG_9853-1024x683.jpeg #64 Kenny Tse http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/D42_7601-1024x682.jpghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/IMG_5796-1024x768.jpeg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/IMG_5739-1024x768.jpeg #6 Noah’s Bluebird Coupe #72 Tom Dockery We have helped Tom build and prepare his Ex-Norm Balzer/Koobation 510 for several years. You can view his race report below: http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/dockery_Seca2025.jpg #68 and #30 Noah’s 510 and BMW 2002 http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/IMG_1245-1024x700.jpeghttp://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/IMG_1242-1-1024x950.jpg #7 Rob Fuller ZCG owner Rob Fuller, Bay Area Datsun Dealers tribute car http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/194911938_10223470558583364_3451851388398014914_n-1024x684.jpg Photo by Jim Rose http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/IMG_7351-683x1024.jpg http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/08/IMG_0618.jpeg Vintage Spec Miata http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/VSM-Welcome-1024x831.jpg We will also be supporting Vintage Spec Miata! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/08/IMG_2834.jpg Join us for the 2025 Vintage Racing Season! http://www.zcarblog.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/04/IMG_5896-1-1024x687.jpeg The Classic Sports Racing Group (CSRG) is excited to welcome Vintage Spec Miata (1990-1997) to all of their events! This is a fun, affordable way to get into vintage racing. If you have any questions regarding prep and presentation, reach out to Rob Fuller: rob@zcargarage.com. Z Car Garage is amped for more racing this year. Please check the CSRG website and zcarblog.com for upcoming race events. View the full article

Something monkey going on here, ebay made a mistake? They're $56 on one link and $589 on another??? https://ebay.us/m/p2pa92 https://ebay.us/m/DMgyJZ

EuroDat has written a bunch about rebuilding transmissions. Here's one link from Tech Articles. The Resources area is really hard to get through, can't figure out where things are. Really just need a long clean list of every title in the area. Had to use Google to find it. There might be more out there. Search EuroDat's name.

There is a possibility my original 4-speed may need a rebuild. It is my understanding that rebuild kits for the type "A" transmission are NLA, at least in the US. Some questions for our talented membership: Are any of the components of the "B" kit usable in the "A" transmission? Has anyone identified susbstitute components - bearings, bushings, synchros, ...etc.? Roadster parts? Any thoughts on where else to search for a type "A" rebuild kit? I really want to keep my driveline orignal. Swappng to a type "B" transmission is undesireable due to the potential for damage to the console and underlying body to accomodate the change in the shift rod location. I'm open and welcoming to any comments, suggestions and recommendations. Thanks, Jim

Quite a blast from the past. Filling in the "rest of the story".

Still in original packaging, braided steel brake lines. $100 retail - I'll sell at $50 U.S.

Don't forget about the bronze valve seats that came OE in the E31. They're not good with the gas we use now but you can have them updated to steel for not much money if you're not currently running the head.

Those are extremely hard to get. You can sell them easily if someone is going for a high end build.

Thanks for the update. I learn something new every time I comment on this site. Cheers

Random aside that might be relevant - there is also an N42 from the Maxima L24's. Some people call them MN42's. They have a cylinder head temperature sensor hole tapped in below and between the 5 and 6 spark plug holes. Still not correct for your car but could factor in to selling. Desirable for people looking to raise compression ratio on an L28.

Thanks Jim, In that case I have two N 42s for sale. Cheers,

Looks like they are also for sale for $1000 BIN with free shipping. eBayAuthentic OEM Nissan Fairlady Z/Euro 70-78 Datsun 240z S3...A once in a lifetime find here! Original OEM Nissan headlight covers originally designed for JDM/Euro Fairlady Z cars. The OEM trim here looks 100 times better than the flat bar $800 reproduction trim

@Captain Obvious Just had a look on my October 1970 240Z that hasn't been touched since built. It has the flat side up.

Edited after coffee kicked in...strikethrough does not show in the snippet. The idle air screw only adjusts idle RPM, not the fuel-air ratio. It's difficult to lean out the mixture on the EFI engines. Hope that you find something wrong somewhere. Edit - sorry, just looked at your picture and see that you meant the AFM screw. One possible reason for a rich mixture is a leaking fuel pressure regulator. The diaphragm can crack and let fuel directly in to the intake manifold through the vacuum reference hose. Another possibility is a lack of the vacuum on the FPR vacuum port. A disconnected or cracked hose or a connection to the wrong vacuum port. The FPR reduces fuel pressure in proportion to intake vacuum. Check the hose for fuel to see if the FPR is leaking, and make sure it's connected directly to an intake vacuum source. Sticking injectors is a possibilty. A maladjusted AFM is a possibilty. Generally, the AFM spring should not be messed with. But sometimes it's too tempting. See if the glue blob on the adjustment wheel is intact. I had also found that my aftermarket AFM was set to run rich. I had to use an old original AFM to pass emissions inspection in Oregon.

At $660 with like 6 days to go, I think they will go higher than $750. Possibly double that...

Try Amayama in Japan

I'm chucking ideas here, Nissan did make a cap to blank off heater size pipes (1/2" ex dia), 14058-14600 was originally for the Datsun SP311, but it's a correct Nissan part for such a job. Whether you can find one in the US is another matter, I got mine direct from Japan.