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I had her up on jack stands and stood about a 12" piece of 6x6 up on the jack and lifted her up. But the block and jack wanted to slide out once she was up high enough. I had to hold the jack in place while someone put the cubes under the tires

I dont believe the 510 has a rheostat

My new check valve came in today so I will be seeing how it performs on the car compared to the one I have currently. I suspect it will be identical, but we will see. I was walking the dog the other morning and a thought came to my mind. My brake pedal has great initial bite, but then goes hard as a rock, with no give in the pedal. I also recalled that while the car is in neutral, I cannot roll it. At all. Takes every ounce of strength to push it. When all parts were more 'fresh', I could push it up and down the garage with relative ease with one hand. Just to further flush this out, I am jacked up both sides by the diff adn wanted to see if I could spin the rear tires with the car in neutral. NADA. Drums are darn near seizing up the rear end. How long has this been going on? Not sure, I drove it around town about a month ago. No issues, but again, car did not want to roll without engine help. I now suspect something is amiss with the wheel cylinders / emergency brake adjustment. Perhaps a complete brake overhaul is not needed. Maybe just a refresh of the rear and some better pads would do on all four corners. I think rear disks would be a worthy upgrade. Anybody running around with just a rear disk brake swap.

Yes. I've had the turbo motor sitting here for a decade, and the original plan was to go turbo, but I changed my mind and want to keep it N/A and make it what I might have done back in the day to hop it up for a, "somewhat period-correct street rod" that is clean and simple under the hood, with not a lot of spaghetti or that immediately looks like it has been modded. Of course, I want to keep it easily-returnable to its stock configuration and will be keeping the original, numbers-matching L24 and the rest of the original bits. My plan is to bore to 89mm add flat-top pistons and new rods, L-Spec Datsun-worked head (shaved, ported, new springs, SS valves, valve guides, stage 2 or 3 cam and cam tower shims). I just purchased the A123 electronic ignition distributor, Champion radiator with fans and will be doing the GM alternator conversion, light flywheel, performance damper, turbo oil pump and keeping the dual SU's. More than I bargained for, but I think I will end up with a really nice driver that will satisfy my butt dyno!

I have a vague memory that the ZX pan works in a Z. But, since you have both why not measure to be sure? How much "building" will you be doing on the turbo engine? You know that it has a lower CR than an NA engine, right?

I am near Canada:)

Yes, nice shade of yellow. Looks a lot like mine. This is a Chevrolet color...'Rally Yellow'

$840 (plus shipping) at Motorsport Auto.

I've seen good results achieved by hammering the metal over the long edge of a length of 6" structural I-beam. Use Vise-Grips to clamp the metal to the I-beam. Then hammer from one end to the other, making 3 to 4 passes to get from flat to fully bent.

So, exactly how did you get her up on the cubes? Car looks great, BTW. That's a nice shade of yellow. Will you eventually paint the front spoiler to match?

You can use a p30 oil pan on an f54 block.

And a white picket fence… so American!

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side. For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

He didn't have license plates lights. He found that one. It was an unconnected ground up by the hatch torsion bars. His reverse lights have him stumped. One works; the other doesn't. It shows voltage and continuity but won't light up. He added LED's in the gauge pod but they flash slowly and we don't know why... I told him to text you... He hasn't yet

Last weekend we worked in the shop some Here is a seam in the leather fender covers. I made this with contact adhesive and clamps. I picked the padding out in the seam area so it was just leather to leather. We took Lily down off the cubes. A lot less sketchy than the way I put her up there. Still had to have a 6x6 on the jack saddle at this point Rolled her outside and it promptly rained... My windshield leaks and I will add some sealant under the weatherstripping soon. I also ordered tool covers for behind the seats from Zcardepot. They don't have the hinges. So they may not work for me... Since I don't have the old covers

I don't think it did. However, test and eliminate.

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

Cody continues to make progress on his car. Thanks to SteveJ for helping us sort the engine bay harness @SteveJ He has the harness in and has started sorting out the electrical issues. There are quite a few We think we have a solution for the throttle control. It's loosely based on Ken Firch's cable system. His bracket won't work but we are working on making a heat shiel that will also hold a throttle cable and hooks for the throttle return screws. It will mount to the two lower studs on the SU's. The smaller SU's only have two studs and they are set diagonally. We are planning on using the the mounts at the balance tube to add a different 10mm OD tube with a donor part from a 240z. Which will supply a ball end for the cable to connect to I worked on a template for the heat shield today. I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out. We are leaning towards using 1mm stainless sheet...

I've searched and I've searched. I've read threads that Google linked to on other sites (Hybridz, zcar, etc), but the posts were so poorly written, I am still in need of an answer! You guys here never let me down, so here's my question; I am building an L28 (F54/P90, N/A with dual SU) that I will be swapping into my '71 (12/70) 240Z. The F54 came from a 1981 280ZX Turbo. Will there be any clearance problems with the L28 turbo oil pan? If so, Can I simply use the oil pan from the 240Z on the F54? I plan on running ZStory headers and I think I've heard whispers that there may be interference issues with the L28 pan/heat shield? What is the sage advice from all of you that have walked this path before me........

Will do. Thanks. Still not sure how the yellow/blue wire for the fuel sender's thermistor affected my floor temp light. I checked one of the floor temp sensor's wires for the ground connectivity and there is one.

So test. Make it where you can access the yellow/blue wire. Put the key in ON. Verify the floor temp light is on. Ground the yellow/blue wire. Verify the fuel light comes on. See if the floor temp light turns off.

I am a big fan of Deutsch connectors. I put a 3-wire one to replace the Datsun's one. The yellow wire goes to the positive on the sender's unit, the black - to the sender's ground. The yellow with blue stripe is not being used.

Correlation does not imply causation. What you leave out, though, is how you adapted the harness to go from the Yazaki round terminal plug to the individual wires. What did you do with the yellow/blue wire?

Hi guys, My original fuel sender was leaking around the positive contact. I replaced it with a 2 pole sender from ZCD. Since I lost the 3rd contact for the thermistor (low fuel), I only used 2 wires (pos and ground). The fuel gauge is working (I do need to bend the float's arm - I have 12 gallons there, it is showing barely half full). Now my floor temp light is always on (cranking/driving). My model is CA, I still have the sensor/catalytic converter installed. The sensor used to work. I checked the electrical diagrams - the dash lights for Floor/Fuel Warning are sharing the same wire. I am not sure why the fuel sender's wire would affect the Floor temp sensor's bulb? The only thing I haven't checked is the floor sensor's relay under the passenger seat. I probably can ground the sensor's connector in the back to see if the light goes out - this should verify the relay's operation. Any other ideas? Thanks! Den

There are new dashes available for these cars. You should be able to find them with a search. I think they are around $1k