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And a white picket fence… so American!

Make sure the reverse lights have continuity on the ground side. For the gauge lights, make sure the rheostat is at full bright.

He didn't have license plates lights. He found that one. It was an unconnected ground up by the hatch torsion bars. His reverse lights have him stumped. One works; the other doesn't. It shows voltage and continuity but won't light up. He added LED's in the gauge pod but they flash slowly and we don't know why... I told him to text you... He hasn't yet

Last weekend we worked in the shop some Here is a seam in the leather fender covers. I made this with contact adhesive and clamps. I picked the padding out in the seam area so it was just leather to leather. We took Lily down off the cubes. A lot less sketchy than the way I put her up there. Still had to have a 6x6 on the jack saddle at this point Rolled her outside and it promptly rained... My windshield leaks and I will add some sealant under the weatherstripping soon. I also ordered tool covers for behind the seats from Zcardepot. They don't have the hinges. So they may not work for me... Since I don't have the old covers

I don't think it did. However, test and eliminate.

I have a 30" Harborfreight brake. What kinds of electrical issues are you finding?

Cody continues to make progress on his car. Thanks to SteveJ for helping us sort the engine bay harness @SteveJ He has the harness in and has started sorting out the electrical issues. There are quite a few We think we have a solution for the throttle control. It's loosely based on Ken Firch's cable system. His bracket won't work but we are working on making a heat shiel that will also hold a throttle cable and hooks for the throttle return screws. It will mount to the two lower studs on the SU's. The smaller SU's only have two studs and they are set diagonally. We are planning on using the the mounts at the balance tube to add a different 10mm OD tube with a donor part from a 240z. Which will supply a ball end for the cable to connect to I worked on a template for the heat shield today. I don't have a good way to brake the sheet metal so we will need to sort that out. We are leaning towards using 1mm stainless sheet...

I've searched and I've searched. I've read threads that Google linked to on other sites (Hybridz, zcar, etc), but the posts were so poorly written, I am still in need of an answer! You guys here never let me down, so here's my question; I am building an L28 (F54/P90, N/A with dual SU) that I will be swapping into my '71 (12/70) 240Z. The F54 came from a 1981 280ZX Turbo. Will there be any clearance problems with the L28 turbo oil pan? If so, Can I simply use the oil pan from the 240Z on the F54? I plan on running ZStory headers and I think I've heard whispers that there may be interference issues with the L28 pan/heat shield? What is the sage advice from all of you that have walked this path before me........

Will do. Thanks. Still not sure how the yellow/blue wire for the fuel sender's thermistor affected my floor temp light. I checked one of the floor temp sensor's wires for the ground connectivity and there is one.

So test. Make it where you can access the yellow/blue wire. Put the key in ON. Verify the floor temp light is on. Ground the yellow/blue wire. Verify the fuel light comes on. See if the floor temp light turns off.

I am a big fan of Deutsch connectors. I put a 3-wire one to replace the Datsun's one. The yellow wire goes to the positive on the sender's unit, the black - to the sender's ground. The yellow with blue stripe is not being used.

Correlation does not imply causation. What you leave out, though, is how you adapted the harness to go from the Yazaki round terminal plug to the individual wires. What did you do with the yellow/blue wire?

Hi guys, My original fuel sender was leaking around the positive contact. I replaced it with a 2 pole sender from ZCD. Since I lost the 3rd contact for the thermistor (low fuel), I only used 2 wires (pos and ground). The fuel gauge is working (I do need to bend the float's arm - I have 12 gallons there, it is showing barely half full). Now my floor temp light is always on (cranking/driving). My model is CA, I still have the sensor/catalytic converter installed. The sensor used to work. I checked the electrical diagrams - the dash lights for Floor/Fuel Warning are sharing the same wire. I am not sure why the fuel sender's wire would affect the Floor temp sensor's bulb? The only thing I haven't checked is the floor sensor's relay under the passenger seat. I probably can ground the sensor's connector in the back to see if the light goes out - this should verify the relay's operation. Any other ideas? Thanks! Den

There are new dashes available for these cars. You should be able to find them with a search. I think they are around $1k

I appreciate the clarification. The articles I read did not provide that information.

I have no idea what "bait" you are imagining you see. I made a couple of - I judge, having sat in front of the very people who came up with the parts in question, listened to their reasoning and their answers to sensible questions - informed comments on the topic. Contrast this with your finger-in-the-air type ruminations (yes, maybe they have indeed "considered" the transmission issue...) and you're talking about "bait"? Thanks for the grammar lesson (LOL, is that all you've got?). I'm English - more specifically a Londoner - and that's how we tend to say it over here. You might as well be advising Miles Davis to stick to the melody. But if you're suddenly volunteering to be this site's speeling and grammer policeman then by all means go for it. Citizens will demand fair and equal treatment of all cases. Good luck with that.

This one’s got four wheels!

So close. I almost went for it. You even left an ellipsis to draw people in. Well done, again. You are a master at baiting people... p.s. proper grammar would use the word "directly", I believe, not direct.

This is a NISMO project, intended as part of an anniversary of their founding year. THAT is the timing context. I very much doubt that NISMO (it's not a NISSAN product) paid too much attention to what's "already out there". Most of the people carping and whining about the NISMO kit didn't buy an OSG or Datsunworks head either.

I attended a presentation on the new kit at NISMO's Omori HQ last week, and the bellhousing/transmission question was brought up. NISMO's staff said that the FJ20 engine's bellhousing can be used (it's pretty much the same as the one used on the LY crossflow) allowing the 71-B family transmissions to be used, but they expect the aftermarket to step up and adapt 71-C family and NISMO 6-speed transmissions in the way that, for example, ESCORT have done for the L6 family. One thing that strikes me is that people are talking as though individuals will be able to purchase these kits/parts for their own home builds. That's not how NISMO told us they intend to release them. They are going to appoint known, recommended and trusted engine building companies as authorised buyers and they will be given technical assistance with the builds. It will be up to these authorised builders to deal with customers who want to purchase finished engines/drivetrains/complete packages. NISMO won't be selling these parts direct to civilians...

I wasn't there when they made the exhaust manifolds, but my assumption would be the same. I would expect they were raw uncoated cast iron. Maybe a thin coat of oil so they didn't flash rust in the parts bin, but that would burn off in the first few minutes of engine running.

Glad to help. Hope you make good progress and get things working well soon!

Twin cam cross flow does sound fun though!

I don't think so. Les likes powdercoat. He always did the air cleaner housing in powdercoat also as they seem to always get scratched and exposed to fuel. It's a durable finish, but not technically correct.

Did Nissan use powdercoating during original production of the 240Z? Keith