All Activity

BTW.. if you really want to put some fuel into a tank of anything/any machine, i use the fuel for 2 and 4 cycle engines used in gardening machines.. they stay good a long time, are more expensive but work the best and keep things not getting clogged up with varnish! The fuel out of the tank i put in the car that i'm driving at that time. (Often the 240z as it's used round the clock and also can run on bad fuel or old fuel.. i always say if i pee in the tank he will probably drive on that as well! 🤣 )

The project farm guy... YES, he's a good guy, always testing stuff BUT.. I can't listen to him for more than a few minutes.. He talks much TOOOO EXITED!! he shouts it out!!! (And keeps on shouting!) Do you know where i can listen to forever??? Tyrrell's classic workshop, Iain can speak to me for hours, and i'm still listening after hours! The P.F.Guy.. i would kill myself after 15 minutes, so he could learn A LOT of the way Iain speaks on youtube! Take a look at his work he's really good! Tyrrell's Classic Workshop - YouTube

Stumbled across an interesting video about zinc. The answer is at about 11:00.

Didn't mean to contradict you directly. There might have been something in the fuel that was left behind as a solid. Crystalline and solid are two separate things in the materials world. A solid can be crystalline but it doesn't have to be. Who knows, it might have been residual fuel stabilizer, left behind when the gasoline evaporated. Most of them are a witch's brew of chemicals designed to save the metals and the fuel. I took some chemistry courses! 🤢 https://www.lucasoil.com/pdf/SDS_Lucas-Fuel-Stabilizer.pdf https://defender.com/assets/pdf/sta-bil/safety_data_sheet_302110.pdf

If you need headlight buckets, I have a few.

My all-time favourite Bondo Queen was a Ferrari 275 GTB that appeared on the FerrariChat website several years ago. It looked so-o-o-o pretty (and cost the new owner about $1.5 Million at the time to make the pivot from 'just shopping' to 'proud new owner'). Nevertheless, he decided to commission a shop to make it 'even better' (including new paint, of course). Unfortunately, when the shop started to prep the body panels for said new paint job, they discovered evidence of filler in places where it shouldn't have been. Digging deeper (literally), they found that the entire nose was nothing more than Bondo. Up to 1" deep in many places. More exploration (excavation?) found deep pockets of damage that made one think that the car had fallen off the top level of an auto hauler and landed on its roof. The shop was stunned by quality of the bondo slinger's work, calling him an artist. When we made the transition from horses to autos a century or so ago, the method of transportation may have changed but the same shysters stayed loyal to the cause and moved from 'horse traders' to car retailers without losing a step.

I believe fuel will crystallize. I have a 56 beetle that was left with fuel in it. The bottom of the tank was full of ruby colored amber. Took a chisel to get it out...

But why do you expect to see detailed photos of a commercial, industrial process over and above the few PR photos that Nissan chose to show us? They gave us plenty of information about the product itself and a fair bit of information about the company and its various operations. As far as Nissan are concerned, anything more than that is really none of our business.

Need as many pics as possible at this point.

Leave it alone and keep keep an eye on the pre & post filters IMO.

Possibly change the system to a higher resistance coil? And get rid of one or both ballasts. Just a thought

I just re-ran the voltage drop test and its currently showing around 12 volts with the LED not blocked and I think 1.5 volts when the LED is blocked. I tried driving it around for 20 minutes to force it to fail but all I managed to do is annoy my neighbors by making a lot of noise. Why are there two ballast resistors? I'm assuming that I have a total resistance of 3.0 ohms with the three terminal resistor providing 1.3 ohms and some fraction of that on the middle terminal.

Interested -- if the price is manageable.

But I thought the inside is stainless steel/aluminum, no? If there's corrosion/rust but its running fine now, should I replace it? The pump is only a couple of years old. This is the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00496VHGC

Would happily pay some money to help the copy and digitization of the compendium along!

Hey! If you remove the screws that indicator light can be removed. Unless the PO glued it on. I get nervous just looking at that picture.

Man this guy wasnt a good welder. Instead of cleaning up the welds he just added 1/2 inch of bondo to smooth over it. Luckily 70% of the welds didn't even penetrate so they were easy to cut off

Corrosion/rust.

If the fuel didn't crystalize, what do you think caused the fuel pump to seize after it sitting that long? The wires were hot to the touch and the pump didn't spin until I smacked it, so something was keeping it from working.

And therein lies the problem and why history ends up getting lost. In the larger scheme of things it probably doesn't matter how our cars are built and the details will be lost to time. Time to close this thread.

Looks like it's another old name sucked up in to a conglomerate. Gold EagleSTA-BIL®STA-BIL®

The Project Farm guy just put out a video about fuel stabilizers. Very interesting. (Let's see if it attracts any bots.) TLDW - Sta-bil was the best.

Gasoline doesn't crystallize. I'd drain some fuel in to a clear container and get a better look at it. Not "clear" what you mean by fouling.

Looks like it still has an engine. Says it's a turbo. Row521982 Datsun 280ZX at PICK-n-PULL Portland South JN1CZ04S1CX623964