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Thanks, Parman. I will be heading out to Menards to get the automotive Goop tube. I don't know what 3M was thinking designing a glue which is black. Clear one makes perfect sense.

I really like this stuff for all adhesive needs: 1 Gal. DAP Weldwood HHR Contact Cement You may have to clean some weatherstrip of its "mold release" before trying to glue it in. A little lacquer thinner on a rag and a few wipes on the surface to be glued is all that is needed. For door weather strips, I use an acid brush, start in the sharp corner at the top, back of the door. You can do it in sections about 18 inches long. Just apply adhesive to both surfaces, wait about 3 minutes, and then press and stick. It is going nowhere after that.

Did you clean the bonding surface of the weatherstrip samples with alcohol (or similar) before applying the adhesive?

Spot The Bot!! ☺️

Totally relatable on the old tube issue — adhesive shelf life can really affect performance, especially with things like 3M that rely on precise chemical reactions.

Hi, I used the automotive version. I cut that precision weatherstrip into short pieces, and did some tests gluing them to a painted license plate. I tried permatex, 3M, and goop. Clamped them down, let sit overnight, the goop was the winner. It could be something in the rubber weatherstrip itself, like silicone or something that did not adhere to the 3M. Or, my tube of 3M was old....but the 3M super weatherstrip adhesive sure adhered to the paint good, I mean really really good, but absolutely did not stick to the rubber. I should have known, the same thing happened to me 6 months earlier when I glued an aftermarket door weatherstrip seal to a 57 ford pickup door I was working on. It fell off the next morning 😆.

Can anyone confirm that this is air filter assembly is from an early 240Z? It looks similar, but is missing some of the inlet/outlet barbs that I think it should have? Could it be from a different Datsun model altogether? I'm looking to purchase these, but want to make sure they are for a Z before pulling the trigger. Thanks in advance for any input!

In all seriousness, I alllllllmost flagged him earlier today before he even ever posted. I think there was about an hour between him joining the forum and his first post. I should have followed my gut and done it. Would have looked like a master bot—spotter. Bonus points for those who see what I did there. Hahaha!

Excellent job reinvigorating a seven year old post!!! You're exactly right, things always come around again!!! Do you have bondo in your roof? How is Jan? Say hello to Dwight!!!

Good point!! 😄😁😆 What kind of car do you drive? Does it have bondo in the roof? ☹️

Nice catch. I read that comment but it was so bland that it was almost invisible. Thought it was a person commenting just to comment.

The flat top fuel rail should be perfectly fine to use with round tops. It has a restrictor orifice in the return line just like the rail used with the round tops. Other than the relocation of the outlet nipples that lead to the carbs, they are interchangeable. The engine uses a small amount of fuel at idle. In fact, if the carbs are tuned properly, the engine should idle for about 30 seconds or so just consuming what is in the bowls. No fuel pump supplying fuel necessary. So you should be fine running off the bowls until the pump turns on. It'll run for a surprisingly long time. First thing I'd do is look for vacuum leaks. A hose you forgot to connect, or a nipple you forgot to block off? If no joy there and you're double dog sure you have no vacuum leaks, I'd drain the bowls (disconnect the tube on the bottom and let the fuel run into a cup) and then refill the carbs with known good fuel. You can easily do that by disconnecting the inlet fuel line and sticking a small funnel into the hose. Pour fresh fuel in from a little cup until the carbs won't take any more. At that point, your bowl levels should be good and you should have 30 seconds of fresh fuel. Maybe disconnect the fuel pump so it doesn't push any more questionable fuel back into the carbs.

Two-fer! LOL!!! @siteunseen

Time to play "Spot The Bot!" @siteunseen It's a two-fer. >> https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58853-if-its-good-enough-for-a-sema-car-then/#comment-680341 I'm totally winning this round! Hahahaha!!!

That’s awesome! Funny how trends come full circle what used to be a hassle is now a highlight. Sounds like your new project car’s sunroof is in great shape, and you get to enjoy that vintage style without extra work. Nice find!

Good looking bird!

Yeah, that definitely sounds risky bondo isn’t meant to strengthen a roof and could cause more issues over time. It’s best to remove it and inspect the metal properly before making any real repairs.

I'm the original owner of a 72 240z, it's on blocks now, I want to get the 260 out of my hair so I can get back to restoring the 240. I'm all ears, been working on cars for a long time but I've forgotten a lot of stuff, I listen to everyone's suggestions. I've known for a long time the hoses can't be too stiff and normal fuel line is too stiff, that's why I used the special plastic tubing made for model air planes, but as it got older, it got more stuff. I have some chores today, when I get back I'll look into the choke linkage and hoses. BTW, the choke lever broke many years ago and was replaced then, it is a weak point, ever since then I would never pull the lever by the end, always at the base of the lever, couldn't believe how much those levers are selling for. I need to step back and look over the mechanism. Keep up the suggestions - Jim

Known to challenge The Hackenthorpe Book Of Lies for top dog status.

That stiff choke could be the hoses on the nozzles. From what I've learned the choke is actually just dropping the nozzles, no closing of the butterflies like most chokes. I bought one a few years ago somebody had put stiff fuel line from float chambers to the nozzles. It was so hard to pull the lever back I broke where the pull handle connects under the console. Lucky for me they make a better bracket that mounts to the sheet metal tunel. Z Car Depot IncChoke Lever Mounting Plate Reinforcement 240ZChoke Lever Mounting Plate Reinforcement 240Z - 800-733 (). Choke and console reinforcement plate for use on Datsun 240Z 1972 to 1973 that use the series 2 console where the choke lever was shifted toAnd I would try clamping off the return and see what that does. At worst the fuel will come out the overflow bungs on the lids. I've seen people run the overflow hoses into a empty drink bottle or a big medicine bottle to keep fuel off your engine. I apologize if I'm confusing your work. I just read the forum a lot and throw stuff out hoping it could help the problem. Cliff

The fuel lines to the nozzles are kind of stiff. They are a plastic material I bought from a hobby shop, made for model airplane fuel. I bought some su rebuild kits, came with new rubber tube's, did not install them. I made the assumption the fuel rails were the same from flat tops to round tops. I'm wondering if I should pinch off the line returning gas to the tank. The electric fuel pump doesn't get electricity until the engine runs, until the engine runs, residual fuel in the bowls is used to start the car, it works that way on my 72 240z. I believe I swapped out the entire intake manifold, not just the carbs. So the linkages were from a 240z, but we know what assume does. I th8nk the choke linkage may be stiff too.

@Captain Obvious do you know if the fuel rail for flat tops work with earlier carbs?

One more thing you should look at as a possible weak link. The hose that goes from the float chamber to the nozzle has to be soft. Off the shelf 3/16 fuel line doesn't work too good. Another thing on the no start is the linkage has to be just right between the carbs. Those flat stops can look right but be out of order.