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I live in arizona... i bought it and it just arived in less than 24 hrs. fastest turn around for a relay i thought i would have to wait 1-2 months for.

I just picked up a 1977 280z with a wiring harness for a "Neutronics" system. It looks like it connects to the o2 sensor on the exhaust and possibly the ignition coil. I cant find a single google search about this system or a wiring diagram. I have a black, red and green wire disconnected. Any help would be greatful. If more infomration is needed this is a EFI car. I am trying to get it started. can get it cranking but thats about it.

I have some OEM, two used and one NOS.

Im in good company!!

It's tough to order things from overseas due to the recent tariff changes. Many postal services will not post to the US currently. As solution is being worked on...

Hello all, Brought my P79 head into a shop yesterday to have some work done. I'm having new SI valves, guides, springs, retainers installed and shave the head 0.080". I asked my machinist if he can get the stem heights the same from exhaust/intake. He told me that they are going to be whatever height they end up at because of the new guides and valves. To get all the heights the same it would require all new seats, which he quoted as 2k+ job alone. I've been given advice on 2 schools of thoughts here from his experience from 2 different professional builders. All stem heights should be the same and there should be a zero variance on all valves in order to have the same size lash pad. It is common to have different stem heights when taking it in for a valve job/guide replacement and you should see varying heights as intake and exhaust valves are different heights. As long as you have the correct size lash pads and the wipe patterns are centered, having different installed heights does not matter. Just curious what everyone elses thoughts are on this? Also, have any of you brought in a head to have new guides/valves installed and had success with stem heights recutting the existing seat or are new valve seats required? Thanks!

What do you think @Mark Maras , Raisin Bran or Chex?

Thanks Matthew for a great write-up =) Here is my tiny contribution to it: You were wondering about the Thermal switch 22110-E8000 and stating that it's probably for the automatic model only. I found information which connects it also with the manual model, with the emission control device (EGR) to be more precise. It can also be found from the -73 wiring diagrams (both manual/auto). Please see pictures below: Keep up the good work!

I can’t believe you chose this frivolous job over installing that fancy hatch vent you recently acquired 😁. Can’t wait to check at your car at the show tomorrow.

Nice work!

Todays event... I put a160 degree thermostat in. Didn't expect it would help anything, and it didn't. But just for completeness, I had to. So cut some gaskets from sheet with the scissors that came from the first aid kit and the hole punch borrowed from the hotel lobby desk. Haha!

They look better wet.😁 Mine has water allergies though. Now for some windshield time.

You're welcome. Verified that it works. I advised someone else to purchase the relay from JBugs after I diagnosed the relay failed in his 77. He slapped in the new relay, and his car ran fine.

Thank you! I was about to order one from Lithuania.

https://www.jbugs.com/product/071906059.html

Replying to this thread a few years later - The Bosch relays have become extrmely hard to find now and are being sold for $200+ if you can even find them. are there any solutions for this? I need to replace this relay to get my engine running but im planning on moving to a megasquirt system in the future.

Of course I think of you every time I wear that shirt. Wish you could have made it to the show. Miss the opportunity to share a beer with you!

No. The tach is connected indirectly.

Wow, road worn! That t-shirt made it back to Tennessee and even looks better than it did in Memphis. Thanks for the pictures, have fun. You just got me good...

Just thinking if he wired it incorrectly could it damage the tachometer?

I got no words... This is right now. Couldn't be more appropriate.

Grab another tach off eBay and go from there.

Changed out fuel filters from 2015 when I did all the work on my 240. Anyone that may be on the fence about Red-Kote fuel tank liner, done the right way it's fantastic from what these filters show or don't show. Heres the G2 right out of the tank. It looked great besides being 10 years old. Fuel came out clear to as I drained out about a gallon before my dumbasss realized the hose on the tank had to be clamped off. Lawnmower gas.😊 I haven't fooled with mine since a knee surgery sidelined me but after @Captain Obvious's heroic adventure got me fired up enough to at least do something. If that beer guzzling rascal can do what he did, ain't nobody got an excuse.😂

Couldn't help you with that, but I doubt either part would keep the tach from operating if it's wired properly (the tach and coil) . And if it's running - and running well - why would you think there might be an issue between the MSD coil and Pertronix module? The distributor module (Pertronix, points, 280ZX "matchbox", whatever) gathers info from the crankshaft and sends a "signal" for the coil to fire. It momentarily asserts a Ground on the coil "-" terminal. The rotor "distributes" the released coil energy to the various spark plugs at the appropriate time. If any of that isn't working properly there would be no well running engine.

Thanks for the continued support guys! The car has a total of 71000 miles. And looking at the condition, it's a true 71000. So it's typical sketchy details when buying something like this used, but it appears the odometer has not rolled over. And of those miles, I've put about 1400 of them on since I got the car on the road. 400 before departing for Nashville, and about 1000 to got here.