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Sorry about that but I HAD to take that call. Every part on that car will pass through the hands of the restorer so why not do it correctly. So many times I've casually helped an owner who's doing a lot of the work himself and he'll often put an incorrect finish on a part or subassembly or use an incorrect part. His reply to my comment about the mistake he made or is planning to make is "well, I never plan to put it in a show". WRONG, every time he takes it out it's in a show. OK, what about cost? In the world of today, and it doesn't make a bit of difference what the marque is, it starts @ 80K. Yes, I said 80K. It will very quickly go up from there if rust is prevalent. "But Mike, I just talked to a body shop who quoted me 25K for the works". Be careful, very careful. Another important issue in the case of Zs is parts. Expect to pay a TON for that rare gem you found after shaking the bushes for a while. Last week I had a chat with a Z owner who recently sold an NOS 240 air injection manifold for 2K. Restoration is not for the weak of heart. Next installment "Factory Restoration", "Just off the boat restoration", etc. How to cut through the hype/marketing.

zspect, You describe the correct way to restore a vehicle, however to my knowledge powder coating was not in original finish on the 240Z. This deviation from original may result in a quick slide down a slippery slope of “enhancements”and “improvements”. Keith

RESTORATION Customer excitedly bursts into my now closed shop "Mike, you've gotta check out my 240 - I just had it restored". This is the same chap that wasted a fair amount of my time a few months ago when I explained the restoration process. At that time his only question was "why does it cost so much". That was followed, almost without taking time to breathe, "I don't wanna do all that"! Anyway, I go outside to check out his beauty only to find that it had recently suffered a rather cheap, glass-in, paint job, a new set of incorrect seat covers complimented with mags that are too wide sporting new tires - clearly not a restoration. The industry recognized definition of a restoration is to first reduce the car to a shell with just enough suspension to roll the car around as required. Next it goes to a stripper who removes all of the paint, undercoating, sound deadener and rust to expose what I call the "sins". Sins are the holes in the body that resulted from the rust being removed by the stripping process and or repairs done to the body in the past that, in most cases, were poorly executed. Yes, one may strip the body by applying paint stripper and scraping the layers of old paint off but this takes way too much time and doesn't expose all of the sins. Of course, the chap doing the stripping MUST know his craft and apply the correct media otherwise there could be problems no one wants or needs. The pictured 510 wagon went through the stripping process using 2 different types of media. The fellow who did the job is very experienced and knows his craft. Many, many years ago I restored a 74.5 260 and an 82 ZX which were both stripped using plastic media. I was very happy with the results but plastic seems to have fallen out of favor as I couldn't find anyone to do the 510 with plastic. The next step is body and paint. The body shell may be mounted on a a rotisserie which could make working on the body shell easier - each case is different. All of the unacceptable sheet metal is replaced with new metal which is carefully, and hopefully, done in a way to replicate the original process. Major ripples, dents and or unevenness are treated with hammers/dollies or rivets and pullers. Bondo or plastic filler is used to smooth out minor imperfections. Now we're ready for the paint booth. Interesting to note - about 90% of the dirt that finds its way onto new paint jobs comes off of the painter. Most painters now use a one time use suit and hood. While the car is making its way through the body and paint shop is when all of the stuff you removed to reduce the car to a shell gets the business. Engine and trans rebuild, heater restoration, gauge restoration/repair, fastener replating, suspension powder coating, seat rebuilding, etc. Yes, the list is much longer than I've outlined but each system needs to be addressed and now is the best time to do it. Now is NOT the time to say "well it just costs too much to address X. NO, now is the time. Just got a VERY important call so I'll finish later.

All, Thanks for the info. Dropped the R200 in the car, your are correct, the driver side side axle is shorter than the passenger side. Installed the short axle in the CLSD, engaged flush and installed in the car. never run a clutch diff before. Are there better oils and weights to run in a CLSD? Spent the dollars on Red Line 75-90 w full syn for the open diff but not sure this is correct for the clutch unit? Any help would be welcome. Thanks again.

Missing dovetail on the passenger door, photo 150. Also the rubber weather strip under the door. They weren’t there in 2019 when it was last on BAT. I just remanufactured the early pre 1973 dovetails for my 1970/71 240Z as they were no longer available. Also did the plastic grease reservoir for the steering rack and the plastic cover for the battery. The Vintage Z cars were restored with parts that were available at the time, 1997/98; not always period correct parts but they did the best they could.

I plugged mine off but it doesn't get very cold down here. Less chances off leaking, losing coolant was my main reason. Lots of info in these threads... https://www.google.com/search?q=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&sca_esv=77dc914585b7f4b2&rlz=1C1VDKB_enUS1121US1121&ei=1oETafjINaKHp84P-LudoAw&ved=0ahUKEwj4i8S_3uqQAxWiw8kDHfhdB8QQ4dUDCBM&oq=plugging+water+to+carbs+240z+classiczcars.com&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiLXBsdWdnaW5nIHdhdGVyIHRvIGNhcmJzIDI0MHogY2xhc3NpY3pjYXJzLmNvbTIFEAAY7wUyCBAAGKIEGIkFMgUQABjvBTIIEAAYgAQYogQyBRAAGO8FSJZBUOkFWKcfcAF4AJABAJgBlgGgAcYIqgEDMC45uAEMyAEA-AEBmAIKoALsCMICDhAAGIAEGLADGIYDGIoFwgILEAAYsAMYogQYiQXCAggQABiwAxjvBcICCxAAGIAEGLADGKIEwgIKECEYoAEYwwQYCsICCBAhGKABGMMEmAMAiAYBkAYIkgcDMS45oAfSHLIHAzAuObgH5wjCBwUwLjguMsgHFA&sclient=gws-wiz-serp

Another VRP car. Already sold once for $101,240. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-93/

About rust free section from a series 1 . Not using this so up for sale. Hard to find a clean section like this . I’ll ship anywhere 200$ Email Sfinnerty1018@gmail.com

Thanks! Of course and now that I know I was able to find in shop manual.

Thanks! Not really sure how that would work but more power to Datsun! I think I'll just leave it off and install some sort of standard nipple.

Pete’s slow-to-go-fast car…

Well hell! @Tanker what year was that Honda electrical brake booster? Did you get a hold of the 3D print file? I’m intrigued but I can’t find the Facebook thread! 😫

I was purchasing a complete NOS ignition switch minus any keys. How difficult is to have keys made for it? Should I take it to a locksmith?

@Terrapin Z - you have a PM! @kickstand80 - you have an email.

This one is still in my 82 parts car.

It is a thermostatic switch to close off the manifold coolant line (the tube across the manifolds). A remedy for over heating the fuel, that did not function well. IMHO

Crankcase breather tube, The large hole goes the the PCV valve on the intake manifold.

Blue pipe I'm taking off my emissions and saw this. Seems important but I have no idea how important. It obviously needs to be attached somewhere...

Goes on the intake manifold near the firewall. Mine broke off when I was trying to remove the short hose that attaches to this doohickey.

Parts are located in North Dakota. If you want pix I can do that for you. I have been around this forum for a while and I make and sell Datsun Distributor parts that are NLA so there should be a few members that will vouch for me. You can DM me, email me at chaug@bis.midco.net or text me at seven zero one - 471 - Fifteen Thirty four. If you google search Matchbox distributor breaker plate repair kit you will find me.

@preith I have a HVAC housing with a broken mounting ear that I would be willing to part out. Do you have everything else needed? I have several complete manual HVAC setups and one Auto setup.

In the process of accumulating parts to convert from the dreaded "auto" HVAC system to something manual. In need of a used manual "water ****" valve assembly along with with associated air-mix door linkage pictured below. The valve need not be operational, I'm only interested in the linkage assembly and housing that bolts to the airbox - hoping someone can pull it off a parts car or something. Thanks!

Another reason to look @ a car before bidding/purchasing

Should have put it on BaT so we could pick it apart!

That seller 911r has legions of bat followers who droolover their driving videos and art pics. I haven't looked at the listing but I would guess no one has pointed out any of the issues beyond the mismatched paint work. Good from far...