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Ha ha. This is the world of used car sales we are talking about here. You even presume that the seller knows everything about the car? That's your schtick. Own it. Don't make me laugh. Last week you were dissing the staff and work of S30.World on this thread for all you were worth - whilst demonstrating at the same time that you knew nothing about them ("just seling car parts") - and then when the boss and a few other well-respected 'consultants' show up and post here in reply you're suddenly the wide-mouthed frog adding 'likes' to their posts. How come you didn't ask a few of them whether they had "stock options", a "paying position" or are "on the board"? Anyone with any sense can see how you operate.

Painfull but true

Zed Head- Amen

Naah. It's just about honest disclosure. That's all. As usual, you've twisted something simple in to a mass of convoluted irrationality. To what end, who knows. Again, sorry DC. I imagine that you can see how these things start. It's not a pissing battle. It's just one guy who feels like he can wizz wherever he wants to.

A buyer - or anyone else - might assume anything at all, right or wrong. But you're already on the head of that pin, positing that provenance is either important or unimportant, with no mention of the pragmatism required when dealing with 55 year old cars existing in the huge gap between those two positions. And if changing paint stickers 'removes provenance' then every car with a repro sticker - no matter if it has just the right amount of shine - is a demerit. ...and reductio ad absurdum. Ask zspert about his "alternates created of all the things that collectors usually inspect for originality". Originality is nice, but its not an infinite resource. It is necessary - for the continuation of our hobby - to repair and replace. There are industries dedicated to that end. There's not a car owned by the members of this site that would be an example of total originality. It is an impossibility and your theory is nonsense, even hypothetically.

Sorry, meant immaturity

A buyer mght assume that it came "out of the factory" in red. If "out of the factory" is meaningless then your point is valid. Changing the sticker removes a significant piece of provenance. If provenance is unimportant then your point is valid. Why not leave the green color code sticker? If provenance is unimportant then changing anything on the car is "okay". Replica body panels, paint, engine (just grind and re"stamp" the numbers on the engine or have alternate ID plates created), etc. Originality doesn't matter. Just have alternates created of all of the things that collectors usually inspect for originality. Create an alternative reality Z car. Sorry D.C.

I've got a hunch - just a feeling in my bones - that the paint is not 'Amino Alkyd Enamel' either. "False advertising"? Seriously? The repro paint sticker matches the re-paint and colour change. Do you think they should have used a sticker for the original green instead? Some of the nitpicking here is beyond parody. Not immune to the occasional malapropism, however.

After seeing your battery upgrade you have the 3rd white/blue early car that I have seen. Eiji had one in Atlanta, a guy that lives not too far from me has one dismantled in his garage and even asked me about helping to put it back together but he's been in bad health and I can't get in touch with him. That's one of my favorite color combinations.

No, that's the material it was printed on. Why would you offer a product that is CLEARLY - no pun intended - not accurate? But more to the point, why would such a product be offered for sale? Another reflection - yes, pun intended - of the immunity of our hobby.

😔

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I also made a set of battery cables and swapped out the ratchet strap hold-down for something a little more appropriate. I know it loses some of that road-kill character, but it's much cleaner now. Here's what I started with: And here's what I got now: And I included the ground wire directly from the battery to the firewall now. Didn't have this before:

I swapped out the 160 thermostat for a 180, and here's where the gauge stabilized. Higher than the 160 thermostat (duh), but still lower than I was running with NO thermostat and the old questionable radiator. Good deal! Here's where I am now:

I reported the post above, but still not sure the report function is working. There are other bots I've reported that are not yet nuked so I'm not sure if I'm doing this right.

Hey @Mike , Here's another bot. They are still multiplying.

I think that adhesive is the only way forward. However, you could always try it first without glue and see whether it can adopt to all of the door contours and then stay in position... especially in the areas of tightest bends. I'm pretty sure that it won't.

I have recently fallen in love (metaphorically) with a smoke machine lately. Very good at finding leaks. Used it on gas tanks…. Mine has an internal compressor that build lots of psi in the system of choice. Reasonable affordable. Uses mineral oil. Bit hard to see small amounts of leaking smoke, have to use a bright light and lots of different viewing angles, it doesn’t make the huge volumes of dense smoke I expected, but still very effective. I also envisioned using a thermal imaging camera at the same time to show a visual map of the leak location, will report on that some day.

Hydrocarbon sniffers can be surprisingly effective across different systems, and sometimes combining them with a simple soap test helps confirm the source faster. Hope you track it down soon.

There's so much religion and hearsay around motor oils that I usually don't pay much attention. But I'm glad I watched that video. Guy actually applied science, credible documentable references, and theory*. I'm glad I watched that one. * Not just "Last year, my cousins boyfriend put <oil brand> into his small block and it wiped his cam. And stuff"

Yes, that plastic piece is a travel stop, and you should really have one in there. If that stop is missing, the lever travel could be too much and the rear adjustment system may not work properly.

Looks like a travel stop?

20251008_144110.mp4 We cobbled up some wiring and tested the tach. Now we have to figure out how to integrate it. Most 510's didn't have tachometers

It's former greenness is "clear" now. Seller posted a before picture.

Pretty sure I know the answer, but for confirmation's sake, I'll ask. First, the set-up. Just got a new Precision complete weatherstrip kit for my 1972 240Z. The door strips in the kit are quite a bit different from the OEM ones in that they have a "gripper" channel (see Photo 1) whereas the OEM strips have but a thin U-channel (see Photo 2). I believe this was a design change made for the 280Z. Both of these are meant to attach to the metal weld and quarter window flanges around the door openings. The OEM strip's grip on the flanges is then reinforced with a stiff U-channel (Photo 3) that covers all but a small section of flange along the bottom of the door opening where the inner scuff plate does the job In his book "How to Restore Your Datsun Z-car", author Wick Humble said (page 135) that the factory's 280Z-style weatherstrip comes preloaded with a "non-hardening adhesive/sealant in the "U" of the weld flange trim that was not previously specified." Clearly, the strips I got from Precision do not have such a preloaded material So, my question to you fine folks is this: Should I apply some kind of adhesive/sealant in the U-channel and, if so, what would you recommend? I'm already using 3M Yellow Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive on the rest of the car that needs such a material.