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Sold for $101K on BAT in 2019... Adjusted for inflation, to break even it needed to sell for $129K in todays money. Nonetheless in todays market - $90K was a pretty strong offer.

A little doesn’t hurt to prevent rust in the tube.

The VR Z did not reach its reserve. Didn't get to its last sale price either. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/

Thanks for replying. From out here, the post reader, the sigh sure does look like a comment. Just couldn't tell what the comment was about.

Post some pictures of the rebuilt damper after you get it back.

The original struts used special oil. Aftermarket strut insert replacements don't need any oil. Not sure what you're working on. p.s. if you click Signature, put stuff in the box, and save it, it will show up at the bottom of your posts. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/

I was hoping to hear those words. Make sense. Thanks

Any oil will do.

Do I really need to use a special oil in the tube is there any other oils that will serve the purpose? Maybe I have something in my workshop already

I mailed the balancer to the guys in Reading this AM. $300. Thanks for the tip🙋‍♂️

They have a 15mm square socket available on Amazon. Works like a champ with a 1/2” pull bar. I chose the Harfington model. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=15mm+socket

To get my plug out I used a small pipe wrench and a bottle jack to loosen mine. Situated the wrench so I could get the jack under the handle then pumped the jack a few times and it loosened up.

That's the speedometer cable leaking transmission fluid. Here's a thread on the seal that fixed mine and the Nissan P/N. I got mine from the local dealership they did have to overnight order it.

Good information, appreciate your response. Sounds like I need to replace or re-core my original one

Fifty-year-old rubber exposed to heat, cold, vibration and air pollution. Aftermarket replacements are available. Your chances of finding a NOS unit are low. Your chances of finding a good-condition used unit are better, but will require you to rely on the quality of the seller's photos. There are a couple of businesses (Damper Doctor, Winslow Mfg) that will re-core your old unit.

This guy was using an undefined Honda Accord booster. We need to figure it out. It bolted right up!

@cgsheen1 I was going to post in another thread but didn't want to thread jack, I'm hopeful to make it to Zcon in your area next year and check out your cars

👍

Well, according to the info Zed Head posted above, the longer spring goes on the RH side.

Sigh...

The difference is modern bumpers are TPO (Thermoplastic Polyolefin) and a urethane bumper is different. I routinely plastic weld TPO bumpers for my cars I repair but Urethane bumpers can't be plastic welded. At least not in the traditional meaning. TPO is also stiff and takes paint better because it's more solid and less rubber like than urethane. Some TPO bumpers for 240z's would be very interesting

I’m working on getting my 240 back in road shape and I tried to change the transmission fluid yesterday but the fill plug seemed impossible to remove. I ordered a 17mm square socket to hopefully not round it off and doused it in penetrating oil multiple times. Any other tips and tricks? When is searched around I read that applying heat to the transmission body around the nut can help, is a propane torch sufficient? Also, any guesses on what is causing the oil leak on the rear of the transmission and what the black oil soaked wire running to the rear of the transmission is? Thank you.

With all the plastic on cars today, I would think a good body shop would know how to make it work. I had a plastic bumper on my wife's car repaired and painted about 7 years ago and haven't had any issues.

The painter who painted the loose panels for Lily uses Bulldog adhesion promoter. I will talk to the paint shop too. To try to check all the boxes