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Update: My new reg came in and when I tested the voltage regulator cap the leads that go to the diode read OL in one direction and when I switched the leads it read 0.597 V. That is what a diode should do. Low and behold the regulator is now outputting voltage. :) Problem solved. Now I have a spare alternator :)

Here's what I did on my hatch emblem. Thanks @Hardway

Maybe drill them and expoxy small sections of thin all thread? Then bolt them to the hubcaps

Yesterday i warned a guy on a bicycle NOT to use his phone (he said for navigating) as it will cost him €480,- if he gets caught.. a few years ago a cycle racer almost drove over me wgen i was crossing the road.. i did this on purpose because i wanted to see if he noticed me.. he didn't and i shouted at him scaring the hell out of him! Personelly i think there must come a law where people have to put all their phones in a special pocket in the boot while driving, so they are not thempted to look at it! And if one still uses a phone while having a steering wheel of just a steer on the bike in hands i think the penalty should be €960,- (In our country cyclists are seen as drivers, and if they come from the right they have the right of way at an intersection of equal status!)

Don’t know if this helps, but here is a photo of the NOS/OEM exhaust system on my 1/71 car to compare with what you find in your search.

ps photo

Back in December I wrote seeking wisdom on chroming and painting '71 240 hubcaps. Got many replies, thanks to all, and the 'caps now look great, with one tiny exception, that being the centre emblem. I have several, although all but one have the plastic mounting studs broken off. I've been trying to find new replacements, but without much luck. Motorsport Datsun lists centre cap emblems, but they are shown as 1 7/8" diameter, while all mine are 2 3/8" . Has anyone else come across this issue? Where we might find original matching pieces,? Or has anyone tried attaching the emblems with tiny screws or some form of crazy glue? With respect to glue, I question whether any fastener would be strong enough to hold in place hitting a bump in the road at highway speed. Would love to hear from anyone with experience on this topic.

On 12/2/24 the seller (Performance Exhaust Nationwide) emailed me: We can send through AUSPOST and that is $145AUD plus the item. Keith

You're of course right. The FS5C71A transmission (from my cars), have the Porshe style Servo synchros. If you look at the mixed bag of synchros you can see there are all kind of synchros (Brass and Steel synchros) So we were hoping that something might fight my transmission, or at least we figure out what car / transmission they belong to.

This is a pretty close match: https://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/p/Universal-Mufflers/1-3-4/Aluminised-Steel/Universal-Muffler-1.75-Centre-Centre-5-x-3-x-12-Lo/A318GP

I am going to check the afm and tps next just to rule those out.

Here's the link - https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/

This normal. It also shows (edit) pretty good intake system vacuum. 30 psi or below at idle is normal. Have you adjusted the valves recently? If I had this problem I would check the TVS (aka TPS). Make sure it's working right at open throttle. It's what adds the extra fuel. Your fuel pressure looks good.

IMO I don’t think so. Others will chime in. Pressure doesn’t change under load. I think you have issues you haven’t looked into yet.

Could it still be a pressure issue when there is a load on the engine?

https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/ https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/

There is no load on the engine

Still need to identify a resonator that mimics the OEM. Please post any links you uncover. Keith

I don’t think there is a correlation just letting everyone know I checked the transmission and then I moved on to the fuel pressure. I am just confused that I can not recreate the issue when not driving

Not sure of the correlation between your transmission and fuel pressure for what you’re experiencing

I connected a fuel pressure tester between the fuel filter and the fuel rail. At idle, the pressure reads 32 psi. When I manually move the throttle, it increases to about 38 psi. However, I’m unable to replicate the issue while the car is parked — I can’t drive it out of the garage right now to test it under load. Given that I can’t reproduce the issue when not driving could this point to something other than fuel pressure. My first thought before all of this was that it was a transmission issue. But I took it to a transmission guy who said everything was fine.

https://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-240z-original-stock-style-muffler

I bought mine from this guy... 1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for...1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) for sale1971 Utah (Single) (#19335) license plate for sale at the Tag Dr. black is dull

Forgot to mention that vehicles registered as vintage 1982 and older do not require emissions. Vehicles 1973 and older are allowed to use license plates issued for the year of the vehicle if you can find them.

W = Wide Ratio (uses Warner-type brass synchro’s) C = Close Ratio (uses Porsche-type steel ‘servo’ synchro’s)