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I need one hatch vent. One of these: Anyone got an old one they could part with. I don't care if the mounting pins on the back are intact or not. I'll just glue it on at this point! ☺️

I drove out to a buddy's place today. I've got about 300 miles on him so far. Day five is behind me:

It's a pumpkin (or some kind of squash) seed and a bunch of other small seeds. Apparently that can happen when you store your car for years with the radiator cap off. I don't know what was living in there, but it had quite a comfortable home. Here's some background history... I saw critter evidence junk in the radiator. Flushed out as much as I could with a hose. Drove the car. and the temps started out fine, but started to creep up the longer I drove. Drained the radiator looked in the top, and there was junk in it again. Apparently some debris was now circulating around the cooling system. So I pulled the radiator and dug/flushed/picked out as much debris as I could and put it back in. This time, however,,, No messing around. I installed a "filter" between the head outlet and the inlet of the radiator with the hope that it would catch debris coming out of the block before it got into the radiator. The filter was a metal screen sock that's used on your washing machine outlet so you don't dump lint into your plumbing. And it just so happens it fit's well into the radiator hose. Looks like this: Chain mail condom: Stuff it into the top radiator hose: Drive around for a couple minutes and I catch this debris before it gets back into the radiator: Rinse and repeat. This is the third time I cleaned out the filter. Probably an hour of engine run time. The amount of debris getting caught is decreasing: I've since pulled it a couple more times and it's almost clean. I can probably remove the filter at this point.

I just purchased some parts from UAE and Spain, pre-August 29 tariff effective date. Speedy delivery and low shipping costs via ebay. For obscure parts, identify a ebay seller based overseas who have extensive listings and ask if they have (or can locate) the parts. Keith

I understand "not supposed to be on the road". Where I live, I routinely take my unfinished cars around the block to help get them sorted. It's never been a problem but some areas aren't as flexible...

I have run into this too. Was trying to buy two BMW fuel injectors out of Latvia. Couldn't because of all the unknowns. Looking to buy something out of the UK and sent them an email to see if they'll ship to the US. We'll see what they say...

Excellent example of what I've been calling for the past 12-14 months the "Depressed upper middle class collector car market".

$36,500 bought it. Decent price for a non original paint and upholstery someone bought a few years ago and thought they were going to make big profit on the crazy prices they were bringing. That dead cat didn't bounce but it did move a little. 😄

Thanks guys, in the mid term im going to cap it off with an hps 19mm coolant bypass cap. I think I will pick up a spare 3 way pipe as well and see about having it welded / capped off.

Many thanks for all the constructive comments and suggestions. I've been running the AC Delco Friction Modified transmission lube for some time, great product and it has provided a significant improvement in shifting. I suspect I have a bearing problem, primarily occuring on cold start situations. Anyway, I'll move forward on tracking down components. With the recent change to the de minimus rule, it looks like most offshore shipments are now on hold pending guidance from the feds. ☹️

I have a 280 radiator in mine with a full ZX shroud. Works great except it sits lower but the crossmember sits just as low. Took the drain valve off and put a bolt in. So far so good and that was around 2015. Bought it at Advance for $139 IIRC? What is that, coffee beans and a racoon's condom?

Here's the wiring for the E12-80 and the TachMatch's for 240s. Mine works great with Blue's Tech Tip ZX swap so I've got no issues in this. Blue's ZX swap... TachMatch's diagram. You'll have to open in another window. I couldn't figure out a way to copy/paste for side by comparison. 240ZTachMatchWiring.pdf

Lean misses can cause rich exhaust. And California cars did have 02 sensors and catalytic converters through 1975 and up. Where did you get your car? Does it have a "Catalyst" sticker on the driver side door jamb? Looks like it has the proper AFM. Are the injectors original? Doesn't look like you pulled the vacuum hose the FPR to check for fuel. Pulling and inspection of each spark plug is worth doing, you might have a bad cylinder. Check and set valve lash, it's the first item in the Tuenup chapter. Check that your timing advance mechanisms are working correctly, both vacuum and mechanical. 16 is kind of high for idle RPM, the system is designed to retard timing at idle for cleaner exhaust by using ported vacuum timing advance. Check the charcoal canister to see if it's loaded with fuel, and check the operation of the control valve on top. Maybe somebody modified it and you're pulling intake air through the gas tank. The tiny things add up.

You didn't mention which TachMatch Device you installed? I did a ZX matchbox distributor with removed resistor on my 12/70 car. My tach almost works but doesn't seem to go any higher than about 3500 RPM.

The saving grace for my 78 model that was running extremely rich was changing every connector on the EFI harness. Cleaned all of the male connections. Finger nail file works great and reinstalled the harness. This was after months of trouble shooting. Doesn’t mean you don’t have other issues but you have a good base line to start from.

Do you mean you replaced the Pertronix with the MSD Blast and no resistor? When we replaced the original coil and resistor in my car with a Pertronix and no resistor the tach wouldn't work. I added a TachMatch device. It didn't fix the problem initially, but the entire setup mysteriously began to work almost a year later. It's possible that the tach would have started working again without the TachMatch, but the scenario you've described is one of the use cases for it and mine's continued to work perfectly all summer.

The car is as far as I have seen completely stock with the exception of aftermarket exhaust headers (explains the O2 sensor bung) and a aftermarket cold air intake filter. The crank angle sensor sits on a (I believe) homemade bracket and isn’t connected to anything. The Electrical harness (both car and engine) also aren’t modified so that lead me to the conclusion that the might have been used to “tune” the stock system. I am happy with the aftermarket exhaust headers as they sound good and I can watch the AFR via the O2 sensor and the temporary AFR gauge. I would like to monitor the AFR when driving but unfortunately the car doesn’t have an valid inspection so I can’t drive it on the road. And guess the reason it didn’t pas inspection…. So now I can only try and retune the car while stationary on my driveway, which should work fine enough for now. I did check and adjusted the TPS as the two prongs were a bit too close to each other and there was no middle ground between idle and wot positions. I set the timing to 16 btdc and the idle to 800rpm btw. I also blocked off the fuel supply to the cold start valve to eliminate that as a possible problem (don’t really need it anyway in my case). Only possible options I can think of now is to measure and check the electrical sensors (yes I read the EFI bible) and clean the inside of the AFM unit. Might also clean the injectors while I’m at it.

Here is a complete E88 cylinder head including valve cover. Ran when parked over 30 years ago. Lubed and free spinning. I would take $300 plus shipping for this head from a ClassicZCars member. Ebay Listing Here

Your car should not have a crank angle senser, that is for a turbo car. Your car is also pre 1980 when factory O2 sensers were just coming into play. Someone may have installed the O2 senser to try to adjust the AF ratio, but it is not factory. Have you checked to see if your Throttle Position Switch is adjusted correctly to let the ECU know the engine is at idle? What does the AF ratio do when you drive the car?

I have already ordered some new vacuum lines just in case as some of them seem a bit hard and if one cracks it can cause a lot of problems. But as far as I’ve seen my vacuum should be fine. My AFM unit did seem pretty dirty on the inside so I was thinking of cleaning it in a ultrasonic cleaner with an electronics friendly cleaner. Also somebody did have the AFM open at some point in time but I don’t know if they messed with the gears inside. I do have a pretty good understanding of the 280z EFI system and the inner workings of the components so I’m not afraid to touch the AFM unit but I would still like to ask for some tips and directions to look at. All in all the entire engine needed a tune up as many contacts where slightly corroded or out of spec and I suspect the car was "tuned" at some point as it has an aftermarket O2 and crank angle sensor, neither one hooked up to anything. The car runs way better now but it’s still running too rich. My vacuum lines should come in this week and I’ll do some more component testing and cleaning before I start messing with the AFM itself.

I’ve had amazing success with Amayama. Once you have found the correct/ superceded part number you basically type it in. If there is a chance they can find it they search first and then request payment. Shipping is amazingly fast.

I hit 70 mph today. Seemed to like it just fine. Not sure how it would like it for ten hours, but it seemed to like it for five minutes. Temps started creeping up a little, which is somewhat disconcerting since it was a cool evening. I have previously been through a (critter induced) radiator calamity, but was hoping it was mitigated to the point of being OK. Maybe I still need to do more... Running out of time!!!

Roo, Awesome. Thanks for checking, and I'm pleased that it is flat side up. I've tried both, and it fit's better flat side up. So despite the fact that it may "look better" with the rounded side up, I'm happy that it's actually supposed to be the other way.. Thanks again!!

In our experience it was generally bearings - mainly the one under the reverse idler - and not usually gears or baulk rings - except maybe the reverse idler. Many of the same bearings were used in the "B" transmissions. If you replace baulk rings (which I would avoid unless there's obvious damage to them), lap them to make sure they move freely when cold... Ask me how I know (and how cold does it get in Arizona?).

If the problem is synchros grinding it might be worth a shot to try Pennzoil Synchromesh. If it's bearings that another story. If it's both try the Synchromesh to see if it stops the grinding and put in new bearings if you can't find the synchros. Some thoughts. You did say possibility.