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Cannon Manifold and three 40 DCOE 151 (spanish pedigree) weber 151s. I have had these apart and cleaned them but they still need to be gone through and verified. I had them on my Z car running since 2012. Pulled them off and need the space in my garage. Comes with oversized rod ends, and throttle arm mounting bar (less deflection), which is a modification of my own. Carbs are complete. I am pretty sure I have the air horns that came with them. I can ship to anywhere in the CONTIENTAL US, but shipping will be on the purchaser. I will box them up in a protected WEBER carb box individually. For the manifold and carbs I am asking 800 dollars plus shipping. Please give me an email at sdamico555@Gmail.com

As I've been saying for some time now; the upper middle class collector car market has been depressed for at least the past 10 months. Yes, should have taken the 90K.

My 1971 Z didn't Have rubber Bellows type dust cover boots on the strut rod. The manual doesn't show that the car came with that. But it seems like a really good idea to add those before I reassemble the struts Any thoughts on that idea?

I'll post pictures. It takes about two weeks.

I'm installing new KYB's I like the idea of a light coating of lube on the inner walls.

Sold for $101K on BAT in 2019... Adjusted for inflation, to break even it needed to sell for $129K in todays money. Nonetheless in todays market - $90K was a pretty strong offer.

A little doesn’t hurt to prevent rust in the tube.

The VR Z did not reach its reserve. Didn't get to its last sale price either. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1972-datsun-240z-380/

Thanks for replying. From out here, the post reader, the sigh sure does look like a comment. Just couldn't tell what the comment was about.

Post some pictures of the rebuilt damper after you get it back.

The original struts used special oil. Aftermarket strut insert replacements don't need any oil. Not sure what you're working on. p.s. if you click Signature, put stuff in the box, and save it, it will show up at the bottom of your posts. https://www.classiczcars.com/settings/

I was hoping to hear those words. Make sense. Thanks

Any oil will do.

Do I really need to use a special oil in the tube is there any other oils that will serve the purpose? Maybe I have something in my workshop already

I mailed the balancer to the guys in Reading this AM. $300. Thanks for the tip🙋‍♂️

They have a 15mm square socket available on Amazon. Works like a champ with a 1/2” pull bar. I chose the Harfington model. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=15mm+socket

To get my plug out I used a small pipe wrench and a bottle jack to loosen mine. Situated the wrench so I could get the jack under the handle then pumped the jack a few times and it loosened up.

That's the speedometer cable leaking transmission fluid. Here's a thread on the seal that fixed mine and the Nissan P/N. I got mine from the local dealership they did have to overnight order it.

Good information, appreciate your response. Sounds like I need to replace or re-core my original one

Fifty-year-old rubber exposed to heat, cold, vibration and air pollution. Aftermarket replacements are available. Your chances of finding a NOS unit are low. Your chances of finding a good-condition used unit are better, but will require you to rely on the quality of the seller's photos. There are a couple of businesses (Damper Doctor, Winslow Mfg) that will re-core your old unit.

This guy was using an undefined Honda Accord booster. We need to figure it out. It bolted right up!

@cgsheen1 I was going to post in another thread but didn't want to thread jack, I'm hopeful to make it to Zcon in your area next year and check out your cars

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Well, according to the info Zed Head posted above, the longer spring goes on the RH side.