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@SteveJ Are you suggesting the sensor connections aren’t needed because abs etc is not a factor?

To share a YT video, there should be buttons underneath it, one of those being share. Click on the Share button, click on the Copy button, and paste the link in a post here. If it's an embedded video, right click on it, and choose Copy video URL I'm not sure what is causing the confusion with the wiring. It seems straightforward to me. I said to take the power for Pin 1 from the alternator so if your Z has an ammeter, it doesn't indicate a drain when the booster is boosting. The black/white wire should be the one that goes to the ballast resistor (pre 78). Am I missing something?

Might have to consult @SteveJ . The sensors involved is what worries me a bit.

Installing KYB Struts with KYB dust cover and bump stop. I noticed a fairly significant gap between the housing tube and the bellow. I thought it needed to be sealed to the housing. Is that not true?

Oops! Hurt some feelings. So, the @Yarbinator will tell us where the three wires go. One is battery +, one is battery -. But I just can’t figure out what to do with the third wire??? John? Can you help? 🤓 This thing apparently boosts effort by 500#! Which makes sense. It’s made to stop 5000# cars and trucks. You’ll hear it referred to as a Tesla booster. It’s not. Tesla buys it from Bosch. Other ICE cars were using it two years before Tesla. It would be interesting to see what this booster could do with stock calipers… physics tells us not to put too much weight close to the dancing shoes.

And, as I noted in 2023, that NAPA kit seems to be NLA. But do your own checks. You might just get lucky and find one sitting on some NAPA shop's shelves. I just re-checked my old files. The NAPA kit (PN 6601000) was described as a 'RANCO HTR-100' rebuild kit. It was evidently applicable to the heaters used in the Studebaker Avanti, so it's conceivable that it was used across the entire Studebaker line (Lark, Hawk, etc). A little snooping around a Studebaker owners club website might turn up a lead. RANCO appears to have been swallowed up by Robertshaw. Most of the focus for the RANCO product line these days appears to be in electronic temperature controllers used for commercial/industrial heating systems. I suspect that the 'RANCO' of 2025 may be nothing more than a brand name (i.e. it's unlikely you'll find a RANCO factory with a parts desk). Just one thing, though: I see that NAPA Canada lists something called a 'URO Parts Heater Valve Repair Kit'. A little checking indicates that URO Parts is a brand marketed by A.P.A. Industries (Simi Valley, CA). A.P.A. provides aftermarket parts (incl. cooling system parts) for a variety of European, Asian and North American cars and trucks. In their website, they say: "A.P.A. specializes in accurate reproduction parts for classic vehicles, including a wide variety of items that are no longer available from the dealer". Maybe there might be some leads there. The heater control valve design used in the 510 and Z probably wasn't unique to Nissan. In fact, the Nissan heater design bears certain resemblances to the British 'Smiths' unit that was used in so many UK cars back in the 1950's and 60's. A little investigation along these lines might turn up a British shop that specializes in heater restorations and has a back room filled with obscure parts like a little rubber washer that will fit your 510's control valve. Try this link for a starting point... The MG Experience - Smith's Heater Restoration

Namerow has a pdf from Palladin on rebuilding a ZX valve with a NAPA kit.

It was just due to the shoes pushing outward and me unable to find the gear to bring the shoes in. That said, after looking at the gear's position and the hole location in the drums, they don't line up at all so I'm not sure how people are accessing the gear...

@siteunseen The infamous Librarian. Please do your due diligence and bail Charles out of the issue at hand. You Da Best!!

A friend of mine has a smoke machine, good for finding air and vacuum leaks, if my intake gasket is not leaking, I'm not going to touch it. Jim

Could the braided hoss that goes to the brake booster have a leak? How do you check for leaks? Carb cleaner?

What he said. Just cap off the brake booster and the transmission vacuum lines for now. As for the intake/exhaust gasket, yes they are cheap and readily available. Only problem is in order to replace it, you need to pull both the intake and the exhaust off the head. And that extra trouble step is why sometimes people try to reuse the old gasket. If yours was in good enough condition to maybe reuse, then some silicone would probably make it leak free. But if half of your old gasket peeled off the head and stayed with you original flat top intake manifolds.... Well then, you're asking for trouble.

Oh, that was no accident. That was desperation and frustration right there!! Cutting wheel on a 4 1/2 angle grinder, and then a BFH to crack through the center portion that I only cut through partway (so I didn't cut into the axle flanges).

Glad you got it off. Now that it's off, can you tell why it wouldn't come off in the first place? In the past, I've encountered a thin "unswept" ridge of friction surface on the inside of the drums that would catch the edge of the brake shoes. Is that what was happening with yours?

Cap the booster line for now. The booster is probably ruined from the fluid. It'll need a rebuild. Pretty common problem...

I recall somebody found a person to rebuild heater valves. Does anyone recall who that rebuilder was? 510 valves are costly

Well, I gave up trying to find it and just yanked it off with a puller lol

Probably a vacuum leak

The next thing to attack is the firewalls . I can’t finish the passenger upper frame because I need access to spot weld the firewall panel . The firewall is sandwiched between the inner fender wall and outer . I also have an issue with the passenger side firewall panel from KF . The drivers side worked out pretty sweet and I should be able to do a decent job welding it in . The biggest obstacle is that I wanted to preserve the vin# that’s stamped on the wall so I had to cut around it . The passenger side doesn’t line up right as you can see but the pics . They said they will send me a new one . I think the panel wasn’t square on their stamping machine . KF has been really good supporting their products . I’ll also add that their drivers firewall panel does not include the doubler for the inside

Brake booster arrive. Already installed. Car is stopping much better however when stuck in traffic rpms start to oscillate from 800 to 600 rpms. Should i retune my carbs?

This was solved today by retarding time! Thanks

Whichever one is closer. You can try rolling it on the ground but if don't have the original steelies with the windows all around your gonna have to jack it up and pull the tire off. Then get a straight steel something, l think I used a crow bar, wedge it in between the wheel studs the lugs go on and try to turn it to line up. It's a pain if they're stuck nice and tight. Probably be best to put the lugnuts on so as to not bugger up the threads. I'm using my phone so I can't help as well with pics like with my laptop. I can in the morning if you hadn't done it yet. Sorry. And I hope you can figure out what I'm trying to get across. Saturday is beer and football. LOL

I was considering a master vac leak, pumped on brakes, pedal went to floor, resivor for rear brakes was dry, filled up, fluid going somewhere. Rebuilt cylinder, now other issues. Should put that on hold and get back to vac leak problem.

I can't remember on the gasket, swapped carbs years ago. Going down another rabbit hole now with brake problems. Can we still get the gasket?

Ok, cancel the Yarbinator. I found a video on YouTube and it only takes three wires. Frankly, the video is one of the best produced car vids I’ve ever seen on YT. If I knew how to link it…