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Like me an expensive lesson. It's a shame that Facebook has basically destroyed the forums. It's impossible to warn people since there are 9 bazillion FB groups that deal with the S30 and I'm not going to go to the trouble of posting on all of them.

Is Jethot coating similar to ceramic coating like they put on exhaust manifolds?

I thought I would add my 2 cents to this. I am not surprised the doors didnt line up. I would certainly reskin doors if I could. If the doors are reskinned correctly, they will be flawless. I would try to stay away from aftermarket panels at all cost. The possible exception is the green classicfab panels. I have used most of them on a combination of 2 different cars. My only complaint about classicfab is to my knowledge, they dont make front fenders but I wish they did. The rockers, floors, the entire rear quarters are very good. The body shop I use until recently, only did classic cars. They were very happy with the classicfabs. I bought new front fenders from resurrected classics a couple of months ago. I thought they were questionable when I pulled up the driveway and saw the box on the porch. "Made in China" was stamped on the side of the box. I test fit them on one of my cars. They didnt fit. Regardless, I took them to the body shop and kept my initial observations to myself assuming they were smarter than me. They test fitted on my other car and they didnt fit. The horror was when they sent me a short video clip of the fender sitting on my car. He was able to press on the top of the fender with his finger. He called it "Oil canning" if you can envision the horror. VERY thin steel. So $700-$800 went in the garbage. Lesson learned.

Glad it helps! I had the whole system Jethot coated, except the NOS black and chrome exhaust tip. All of the hangars are also OEM/NOS.

Recently, a friend and I were working on the 240Z Original R180 differential and we both were not happy with neither the state of the original factory-installed differential strap belt, nor with the replacement options. None of the available replacements look anything close to the original belts. After a b it of research, my friend found this one on AliExpress, which is some sort of V-belt or something: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006145171328.html make sure to order the 12ribs pk560 type. NOTE: We realized all original belts had different lengths (probably due to wear and tear), so make sure to measure your original one (best done with a piece of tape) before you order. I also cannot guarantee that this will fit perfectly and was not able to install it yet. But so far it looks pretty good: The only problem: the replacement belt has some pretty colorful markings on the outside and is quite shiny. I tried different things, but the best to get rid of it was simply to sand it off with some 80-grit paper: After some manual attempts, I chose the belt-sander to get rid of the rest. Be careful to sand off a minimum only, if you remove too much material, the woven white threads inside the rubber will become visible. Not what you want. And here is the result: Left AliExpress replacement original, Center: Aliexpress sanded down. Right: Original Nissan Belt. I'm quite satisfied, and so far it looks like the most OEM-looking option I have seen so far. Somewhere in future, we'll see how well it fits, too :-)

That's extremely helpful, @AZ-240z! Thank you. Let me know how much $$$ I need to send you to purchase that NOS one from you 😅 @DatsunZGuy @zed2 Thanks so much for these... going to compare to the above and see how it lines up. Will need to powder coat or similar to get the original OEM looking paint on the exhaust tip.

Update: My new alternator came in and when I tested the voltage regulator cap the leads that go to the diode read OL in one direction and when I switched the leads it read 0.597 V. That is what a diode should do. Low and behold the alternator is now outputting voltage. :) Problem solved. Now I have a spare alternator :)

Here's what I did on my hatch emblem. Thanks @Hardway

Maybe drill them and expoxy small sections of thin all thread? Then bolt them to the hubcaps

Yesterday i warned a guy on a bicycle NOT to use his phone (he said for navigating) as it will cost him €480,- if he gets caught.. a few years ago a cycle racer almost drove over me wgen i was crossing the road.. i did this on purpose because i wanted to see if he noticed me.. he didn't and i shouted at him scaring the hell out of him! Personelly i think there must come a law where people have to put all their phones in a special pocket in the boot while driving, so they are not thempted to look at it! And if one still uses a phone while having a steering wheel of just a steer on the bike in hands i think the penalty should be €960,- (In our country cyclists are seen as drivers, and if they come from the right they have the right of way at an intersection of equal status!)

Don’t know if this helps, but here is a photo of the NOS/OEM exhaust system on my 1/71 car to compare with what you find in your search.

ps photo

Back in December I wrote seeking wisdom on chroming and painting '71 240 hubcaps. Got many replies, thanks to all, and the 'caps now look great, with one tiny exception, that being the centre emblem. I have several, although all but one have the plastic mounting studs broken off. I've been trying to find new replacements, but without much luck. Motorsport Datsun lists centre cap emblems, but they are shown as 1 7/8" diameter, while all mine are 2 3/8" . Has anyone else come across this issue? Where we might find original matching pieces,? Or has anyone tried attaching the emblems with tiny screws or some form of crazy glue? With respect to glue, I question whether any fastener would be strong enough to hold in place hitting a bump in the road at highway speed. Would love to hear from anyone with experience on this topic.

On 12/2/24 the seller (Performance Exhaust Nationwide) emailed me: We can send through AUSPOST and that is $145AUD plus the item. Keith

You're of course right. The FS5C71A transmission (from my cars), have the Porshe style Servo synchros. If you look at the mixed bag of synchros you can see there are all kind of synchros (Brass and Steel synchros) So we were hoping that something might fight my transmission, or at least we figure out what car / transmission they belong to.

This is a pretty close match: https://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/p/Universal-Mufflers/1-3-4/Aluminised-Steel/Universal-Muffler-1.75-Centre-Centre-5-x-3-x-12-Lo/A318GP

I am going to check the afm and tps next just to rule those out.

Here's the link - https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/

This normal. It also shows (edit) pretty good intake system vacuum. 30 psi or below at idle is normal. Have you adjusted the valves recently? If I had this problem I would check the TVS (aka TPS). Make sure it's working right at open throttle. It's what adds the extra fuel. Your fuel pressure looks good.

IMO I don’t think so. Others will chime in. Pressure doesn’t change under load. I think you have issues you haven’t looked into yet.

Could it still be a pressure issue when there is a load on the engine?

https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/ https://www.facebook.com/share/1BaR4fHeds/

There is no load on the engine

Still need to identify a resonator that mimics the OEM. Please post any links you uncover. Keith

I don’t think there is a correlation just letting everyone know I checked the transmission and then I moved on to the fuel pressure. I am just confused that I can not recreate the issue when not driving