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That's why I finally threw in the towel and reskinned my doors. There was soooo much wrong with his doors that it got to the point where I just couldn't go forward. They became a time vampire.

I'd be curious to know if Max has contacted everyone that purchased doors to let them know there is a potential problem or is he just going to let people go through the same hell he put me through. Summit Racing carries the doors and as a long time customer of theirs I contacted them about the problem and directed them to this thread, No clue if it will get any traction but $1400.00 is a lot of money for me to set fire to. If I had purchased the doors through Summit I would be raising holy hell with them. The doors are back in their original boxes so if Max has a change of heart and wants to refund my money I sure would appreciate it.

I ordered a hatch seal from Australia. Here are the profile differences between the PRECISION hatch seal and this one from Australia and their compression. This Australian Hatch seal has the same profile throughout the entire seal, unlike the "molded corner" Precision one. The 2nd hatch seal I tried was ordered from VintageRubber and it is identical to the Precision seal, which is anything but precise. 😆

Go to their website if you haven’t already. I’ve used them and it is ceramic coating. They have a great video. Good People.

I can only speak for myself. But it wasn't but just a few years ago that there wasn't any replacement sheet metal. Tabco pieces were about it. When manufactures start supplying parts, for me, it is very positive. But when you actually purchase and install, that is something completely different. You are risking the entire outcome of a restore based on just a few pieces of sheet metal. That is why tossing them was much less expensive than using them.

How did things get so bad, since this last thread? https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/68334-resurrected-classics-continues-to-impress-with-new-fenders-hatches-and-bumpers/

I thought that "AI" would do that for us. Apparently not -

Like me an expensive lesson. It's a shame that Facebook has basically destroyed the forums. It's impossible to warn people since there are 9 bazillion FB groups that deal with the S30 and I'm not going to go to the trouble of posting on all of them.

Is Jethot coating similar to ceramic coating like they put on exhaust manifolds?

I thought I would add my 2 cents to this. I am not surprised the doors didnt line up. I would certainly reskin doors if I could. If the doors are reskinned correctly, they will be flawless. I would try to stay away from aftermarket panels at all cost. The possible exception is the green classicfab panels. I have used most of them on a combination of 2 different cars. My only complaint about classicfab is to my knowledge, they dont make front fenders but I wish they did. The rockers, floors, the entire rear quarters are very good. The body shop I use until recently, only did classic cars. They were very happy with the classicfabs. I bought new front fenders from resurrected classics a couple of months ago. I thought they were questionable when I pulled up the driveway and saw the box on the porch. "Made in China" was stamped on the side of the box. I test fit them on one of my cars. They didnt fit. Regardless, I took them to the body shop and kept my initial observations to myself assuming they were smarter than me. They test fitted on my other car and they didnt fit. The horror was when they sent me a short video clip of the fender sitting on my car. He was able to press on the top of the fender with his finger. He called it "Oil canning" if you can envision the horror. VERY thin steel. So $700-$800 went in the garbage. Lesson learned.

Glad it helps! I had the whole system Jethot coated, except the NOS black and chrome exhaust tip. All of the hangars are also OEM/NOS.

Recently, a friend and I were working on the 240Z Original R180 differential and we both were not happy with neither the state of the original factory-installed differential strap belt, nor with the replacement options. None of the available replacements look anything close to the original belts. After a b it of research, my friend found this one on AliExpress, which is some sort of V-belt or something: https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006145171328.html make sure to order the 12ribs pk560 type. NOTE: We realized all original belts had different lengths (probably due to wear and tear), so make sure to measure your original one (best done with a piece of tape) before you order. I also cannot guarantee that this will fit perfectly and was not able to install it yet. But so far it looks pretty good: The only problem: the replacement belt has some pretty colorful markings on the outside and is quite shiny. I tried different things, but the best to get rid of it was simply to sand it off with some 80-grit paper: After some manual attempts, I chose the belt-sander to get rid of the rest. Be careful to sand off a minimum only, if you remove too much material, the woven white threads inside the rubber will become visible. Not what you want. And here is the result: Left AliExpress replacement original, Center: Aliexpress sanded down. Right: Original Nissan Belt. I'm quite satisfied, and so far it looks like the most OEM-looking option I have seen so far. Somewhere in future, we'll see how well it fits, too :-)

That's extremely helpful, @AZ-240z! Thank you. Let me know how much $$$ I need to send you to purchase that NOS one from you 😅 @DatsunZGuy @zed2 Thanks so much for these... going to compare to the above and see how it lines up. Will need to powder coat or similar to get the original OEM looking paint on the exhaust tip.

Update: My new alternator came in and when I tested the voltage regulator cap the leads that go to the diode read OL in one direction and when I switched the leads it read 0.597 V. That is what a diode should do. Low and behold the alternator is now outputting voltage. :) Problem solved. Now I have a spare alternator :)

Here's what I did on my hatch emblem. Thanks @Hardway

Maybe drill them and expoxy small sections of thin all thread? Then bolt them to the hubcaps

Yesterday i warned a guy on a bicycle NOT to use his phone (he said for navigating) as it will cost him €480,- if he gets caught.. a few years ago a cycle racer almost drove over me wgen i was crossing the road.. i did this on purpose because i wanted to see if he noticed me.. he didn't and i shouted at him scaring the hell out of him! Personelly i think there must come a law where people have to put all their phones in a special pocket in the boot while driving, so they are not thempted to look at it! And if one still uses a phone while having a steering wheel of just a steer on the bike in hands i think the penalty should be €960,- (In our country cyclists are seen as drivers, and if they come from the right they have the right of way at an intersection of equal status!)

Don’t know if this helps, but here is a photo of the NOS/OEM exhaust system on my 1/71 car to compare with what you find in your search.

ps photo

Back in December I wrote seeking wisdom on chroming and painting '71 240 hubcaps. Got many replies, thanks to all, and the 'caps now look great, with one tiny exception, that being the centre emblem. I have several, although all but one have the plastic mounting studs broken off. I've been trying to find new replacements, but without much luck. Motorsport Datsun lists centre cap emblems, but they are shown as 1 7/8" diameter, while all mine are 2 3/8" . Has anyone else come across this issue? Where we might find original matching pieces,? Or has anyone tried attaching the emblems with tiny screws or some form of crazy glue? With respect to glue, I question whether any fastener would be strong enough to hold in place hitting a bump in the road at highway speed. Would love to hear from anyone with experience on this topic.

On 12/2/24 the seller (Performance Exhaust Nationwide) emailed me: We can send through AUSPOST and that is $145AUD plus the item. Keith

You're of course right. The FS5C71A transmission (from my cars), have the Porshe style Servo synchros. If you look at the mixed bag of synchros you can see there are all kind of synchros (Brass and Steel synchros) So we were hoping that something might fight my transmission, or at least we figure out what car / transmission they belong to.

This is a pretty close match: https://www.performanceexhaust.com.au/p/Universal-Mufflers/1-3-4/Aluminised-Steel/Universal-Muffler-1.75-Centre-Centre-5-x-3-x-12-Lo/A318GP

I am going to check the afm and tps next just to rule those out.

Here's the link - https://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/vacuum/