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Had a Champion, worked a bit better than stock I think but found a much better solution with a 240Z KOYO radiator. Been using the KOYO with my intercooled, turbo-swapped, (early) 260Z with factory A/C, here in PHOENIX, Arizona (not name dropping, just emphasizing the HEAT factor...) for a few years. In my estimation it's much better than the Champion I had - or Mishimoto radiators I've seen in some Z's here in Phoenix...

I have a champion 3 row radiator. Its like 15 years old and stock fan clutch. Which auxiliary fan can help reduce the temp when the AC is engaged? Which type and brand?

Oh, and this came today. PTunerz thermostat housing. Had to bolt up a Canadian part in honor of my Canuck brothers…

I believe the success rate here is pretty good with the past history mentioned in earlier posts presented. What puzzles me is the cost of the relay. I’m sure there are folks here on the forum including myself have a factory one available since I converted to OER Carbs.

You need an auxiliary pusher fan or a larger radiator.

It climbs 3/4 but when turning the ac on during traffic.

I've had my 76 280Z for 25 years. Other than headers, it's basically stock. When I got the car, it came with 195 50R 15 tires. With those tires the car pretty much steered itself on the highway and was good on curves at higher speed. On the negative side, the tires seemed way too small in the wheel wells, the speedometer was off by 10% and trying to turn it into a parking space took way too much arm strength so early on I got a set of 14 inch Panasports and 195 70R14 Pirelli P6000's. I'm happy with this setup but find, sometimes in a sharp turn, I get a little sway. The 205 60R 15 setup is almost identical in height, diameter etc to the 195 70R 14. I see from this forum that a number of people use the 205 60R15's and was looking for your advice. I'm not racing or doing anything performance based but I do enjoy a lot of New England 45 mph country roads. Am I apt to see noticeable benefits to the slightly wider tire and reduced sidewall? I still have the 15 inch wheels the car came with so the investment would only be in a set of tires and, of course, I could always go back to the 14's. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks. Dave

Thats not vapor lock. Different issue entirely Depends how high it climbs on whether its an issue or not. Lots of things can contribute to not being able to shed heat.

That's a lot of money in tools!

I wonder what this means -

It's unfortunate so many cool looking concept cars don't get built or the coolness gets lost in the transition to production line

5 days, that's pretty good

It wasn't meant to be a link, just an abbreviation. Something in the browser or forum software does that automatically, I think. ithink.com link.com thislinkwontwork.com

I still believe there is an issue with vapor lock as i turned the ac on and the temp started getting to 3/4 of the gauge.

He retuned the carbs, installed a msd coil and advanced the timing. Guy is 70 years old and works on 8 cyl camaros.

This (F 026 T00 064) was the one I ordered, I got impulsive and this was the first part number I came across from this post here from @SteveJ . I couldnt find any other posts on here with the other part number at the time. The 0 332 514 121 relay has extra pins, this is because the extra pins are for the california vehicles, at least according to Jbugs. I suspect that using that relay is just fine since the car doesnt need those pins. This is the description for bosch relay 0332 514 121 accordinng to Jbugs BTW @Zed Head That CZCC link doesnt work

That's what we did with boats, river racing. Put spray paint marks on the inside of the highway guardrails along the river. 13 hundred and 20 feet, run what you brung was like a Bible verse I'll never forget.

The car in the video reminded me of the old Can-Am days.☺️ It was run what ya brung with few rules.

Rob @ ZCarGarage in San Jose.

I'm ready to buy some Panasport wheels for my '72. 16 x 7 with 0 offset, or perhaps +4. Plan on running 205/55 x 16 tires. Car is totally stock. Any idea's on a preferred dealer? Thanks,

When I searched ebay for the iBooster, I actually looked more at the Hondas because I don't think they have the booster mounted at an angle like the Tesla. I'm still not sure about what reservoir would be best to use in this application.

An ammeter can fail, but that would also cause the car not to run. Bad wires at the ammeter would also cause the car not to run.

The ammeter doesn't really have good resolution, especially the ones that range from -60 to +60. Also I have no idea whether or not the one on @70z4fun's car has been zeroed out properly. Also consider the first test in the FSM for the alternator is to check the voltage. Why not make it easy and use a digital meter in the car? Also, one other thing I just remembered. Sometimes people add additional electrical loads to a Z and connect on the battery side of the ammeter. That could give a false indication of a failing alternator.

EFI/pump relay. Which one did you order? You didn't say. Don't overlook that the pump relay is controlled by the switch in the AFM. And that there is no "prime" like on today's vehicles. The pump relay is energized by the AFM switch or when the key is at Start.

Good point, I may not of noticed the Ammeter reading negative while driving ( operator error ) but as I recall, it was not in the positive area after I jumped started it. I did replace my cigarette lighter many moons ago with a USB charger that had a green hue to it. I think I might replace it with something like this, since I can charge things and see what the battery voltage is. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZRRK7ZZ?smid=A177NFKYPJ1LIQ&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1 I use a similar thing in a boat, nice to see a digital voltage reading. I am correct in thinking that if the wires were bad at the ammeter, the car would not run? I have not seen issues with that gauge in the past, but do they fail?