I just recently bought a 76 280z. Im in the process of trying to get it running. The fuel pump is working fine and fuel is getting to the injectors. The injectors are brand new but there is no pulse to them. Most people woud say replace the ECU but there is also no power to the ECU. Ive checked my grounds and Im pretty sure their all good to go. Any ideas?
As far as affordable, lightweight, and fun to drive sports cars.... did the venture between Toyota and Subaru beat Nissan to the punch with their FR-S? This car looks so much like an old Z, I'm beginning to wonder if the rumors around a new 240z are going to show up with a car that looks a lot like the Scion FR-S.
C'mon Nissan, you've got to do something good for this market!
I have 1and 1/2half 1980 280zxâ€™s a 2+2 that is in pieces but runs good and a 80 2 setter w t-tops full car hasnâ€™t turned over yet but havenâ€™t tried2 hard 2 work on it the 2+2 engine purrs both 5 speeds Basically one car 2 engines got turbochargers lying round the shop id like 2 turbo charge one of em and keep one stock!! Can anyone help?
Updated 30 Mar 2014:
Rotating view (click to zoom in):
Front frame rails:
Rear frame rails looking towards front of car:
Sketchup drawing for download:
240Z frame rails whole car 20 Mar 2014.skp.zip
Sketchup drawing viewer can be downloaded here:
Download | SketchUp
2013 Dec- Updated drawing includes holes I noticed in the frame behind the seats. (Holes are now in correct location if you happened to have viewed this drawing the first couple of weeks in November)
There are a total of four holes added to this drawing from the original, two behind each seat. They are in the same location on the floor on a 1/1970 car and on a 1/1972 car where I have seen them. The two holes behind the drivers side seat are in line with each other vertically so that with the plugs out you can look straight down from inside the car and see the street. Same situation for passenger side, trying for clarity here. The holes are 20 mm in diameter. The holes are in the middle of the frame rail that heads back and up towards the floor beside the shock towers.
2014 March 30- Updated drawing to correct the diameter of rear frame holes next to spare tire just forward of the tail lights. Also the rear crossmember in front of the rear bumper is now shown correctly as being open on both ends, before it was shown as closed off.
The attached sketchup drawing is done to scale and includes the front and rear frame for a 240Z. Can be viewed with the free program sketchup, download from Google (Mac or PC, can work with Linux). Can be zoomed in and viewed from any angle. The drawing was made from measurements from my own car and from the chassis dimension drawings to maximize accuracy.
Can be converted to Autocad readable .DXF with Sketchup pro for importing into Autocad. May need an older version of Sketchup pro to make the resulting .DXF work with an earlier version of Autocad.
I found it interesting that the inside frame rail to frame rail measurement on the rear frame rails where the spare tire well is on my car measured about 10 MM further apart than on the chassis dimension drawing. The manufacturer must have made a slight change there unless whoever made the chassis drawings was off a bit in that area. I made my sketchup drawing agree with the dimension on my car.
Drawing does not show narrowed section on both front rails located about 5 inches behind the radiator support. I could not accurately define that narrowing with the tools I have so I left that off for now.
Litecoin QR code for donation:
I made a new engine bay light lens out of an empty nutrition drink tube that looks like a large translucent white test tube with a tube DIA of 33.8 MM, though it does not have to be exactly that to work. The nutrition drink is called Energize and has the words "Hardcore Energize bullet" on it with the word "Energize" much larger than the other words (Thank you to SteveJ for identifying the brand of drink for me since I had thrown away the wrapper). It is sold by Wall Mart here and I have read Walgreens sells it though not in the Walgreens we have (Several Energize offerings are on eBay now 23 Feb 2013). There is a colored shrink wrap covering on the Energize tube but the tube itself is translucent white. Another brand of tube that might work is the Profect brand tube though its color appears more neutral if the color at the top just under the lid isn't from shrink wrap:
Energize Hardcore Bullet:_____Profect Protein Beverage:
******EASY WAY****** (see further down for how I did this the hard way)
1. Cut off the rounded end of the nutrition tube so it is the same length as the original lens (33MM or 1 5/16" or 1.29") and scrape off any plastic burrs.
2. Sand off open end on the side of a bench grinder disk or on a sidewalk to remove irregularities if any.
3. Push into the light housing. You are done.
Pushing the new tube into the housing will take some hand force if you use the same size drink tube I did and will likewise take some force to pull it back out to replace the bulb however the engine bay light bulb will typically last for decades as it isn't often used. This easy approach will result in the best looking light lens as you won't see any cut/grind marks needed to make the new lens twist into place like the old one did if you try the same thing I did (see "hard way" below). Note that I also made two new rubber gaskets out of a truck tire inner tube to be a weather seal between the lens and metal housing as the existing rubber seals in the metal housings I have had deteriorated.
OLD lens/NEW Lens:....................Rubber gaskets:
The three pictures immediately below are also on this related thread:
White translucent tube for new lens material:
DIA of new lens material 33.78 MM:..DIA of original lens 32.52 MM:
******HARD WAY****** (see above for easy way to do this)
The goal of doing this the hard way was to duplicate not only the look of the original but the way it twists on.
1. Be sure any old rubber gasket or freshly made one is in place before doing this. I pushed the new lens into the bay light metal housing after cutting it off from the nutrition tube and put masking tape on it right up to the metal housing.
2. I drew a line across the top of the four tabs and extended this line the width of each tab in a counterclockwise direction from each tab as viewed from the rounded end. Each tab will slide in its own slot as the lens is twisted on. I also put a dot where each side of the four tabs were to be used in the next step.
3. I pulled out the lens and drew a straight line from each dot to the open end of the lens as a guide for grinding with the dremel small cylinder grinding tool.
4. I ground the area down between the three lines for each tab so the tabs will slide over that area easily.
5. Using a dremel thin cutting disk, I cut the slotted line I marked earlier. NOTE: Don't do like I did, take time to cut a little at a time and then test to make sure you didn't cut the slots too deep. You want a firm effort to twist the lens into place so it doesn't come off. If the slots are too deep the lens will be loose and can be cocked over at an angle which doesn't look good.
Dremel tools I used:
As the drink tube is much longer than needed it is possible to practice several times to get the plastic cut/ground off right. I cut off each practice session to give new plastic to practice with before cutting the tube to final length. Plastic slivers from the tube can be melted on with a soldering gun while positioned next to the slot towards the open end of the tube if needed to get rid of any looseness if the slots get cut too deep.
I recieved an email yesterday from Datsun Classifieds that said Happy New Year, and said to watch for news of a new 240z coming in 2014. Is there any truth to this, or is this just a bs rumor about a successor to the 240sx to get more action to the site? I'm a member of Nico also , and we've been talking about the need for a new affordable rwd sport coupe, and Andy Palmer has been ringing in and told us that something is in the works, but the administrator told me that their lineup up to 2016 is already filled. As a potential buyer of one, and speaking for all potential buyers, I think we deserve to know the truth, and people need to stop posting rumors.
After spending five years restoring my 71 240 Z again after being flooded in two feet of sea water, it is back on the road. I am still working out some issues, however the car is road worthy, at least for a while. Anyways, with the engine running, the tach is pegged over to 8K rpm.This is an intermitten issue as it sometimes self corrects. I checked the wire to the coil and to the ballest resistor, and they seem to be fine. Any ideas?
71 240 Z.
My Z is having symptoms. My engine is fairly good it only has around 84000 miles on it but today something weird started happening. First gear was good and so was second at 3rd gear my car wouldn't go over 2500 rpm i would literally have my foot down on the gas and it moves like i just downshifted or something and if i keep it on the gas for to long the muffler sputters like as if a cartoon car just broke down. So i drove home at low speed from the base i work at to look in my engine. I found pieces of a belt but I'm not sure where it came from. Also my gas just start dropping like a rock in water idk if that's connected to do my problem. Can somebody point me in the right direction cause nobody in panama city knows how to work on my car and i would rather get what i need to fix my car and do it myself. My engine right now is the original L28E. Thanks for your help.
My ideas for my 280z to make it a originally awesome...
. RB26DETT engine
. dual 2 or 3 inch straight pipe
. Carbon Fiber 3 piece spoiler that more or less resembles a mustang duck-tail spoiler
. Wide body rear panels
. JEEP CJ5 CJ7 CJ8 7" UNIVERSAL ROUND HALO LED HEADLIGHTS BLACK HEAD LAMP if its possible
. 18 inch Lexani Lust black-machined wheel
. Vertical Lambo doors
. New interior I'm going with black leather
. 110 7200 red paint
. carbon fiber tail light panel
. and more modifications that i cant think off
I plan on putting around 40,000 worth of work into my car. So that way i have a mean looking everyday driver, and a monster drag/racing car! Tell me what you think I'm open to ideas and being told the things i can and can,t do or what will and won,t work before i waste my time.
I am a new car owner plus brand new to Z's. I have a 1977 280z with a restored L28E. i like the engine but its slow for me. I wanted to know if a RB26DeTT swap is A: good for gas mileage B: a more reliable engine C: the best Nissan engine i can put in there. If so are there any details on swapping the motor cause I'm doing it myself. And where can i find one that is in good condition and doesn't look sketchy. I want it to be a brand new engine but i realize that's not possible. Any info would help me Thanks.
everything is new...i just had the motor rebuilt and the guy was suppose to put all new parts ( battery,starter,coil,ect ) on it.when i picked it up it started fine then i had it hauled to a guy to fix the body and paint it.he was taking forever and working on other cars in the same building as my car and it wasnt covered up and had all the sanding and everything else all over it and all over my motor he said he lost my key so we pushed it out and i had it taken to my house.now it wont start there is no fire anywhere.my brother had a friend over here last week but i was gone but he said the guy went to the battery and hooked something up and it started and said it was the fuse box.i replaced the fuse box but still no fire...wont start i have spent almost all my money on this car...i dont know where to start now or how
I got a quartz clock from Michael's (arts and craft store in USA) and replaced the mechanical clock mechanism in my 1970 240Z (my clock face says JECO). There is a thread where someone else used this same clock for their Z, the following is my experience. The easiest way to do this IMO is to use the hands from the new clock and to wrap wires onto the new clock battery connections to remote the battery location to perhaps the fuse box. I didn't install that way as I wanted the clock hands to look stock and I prefer soldered connections.
A Quartz clock from Michael's ($18), see pictures of clock card for model
B Battery holder for AA (or AAA) battery from Radio Shack
C Small wire to run from clock to battery holder
D Epoxy glue
E Glue gun to put a dab of glue on inside of set time knob
F Optional tape to cover three bolt holes in back to keep light in
G Bench grinder, dremel or possibly sand paper (to remove raised edges on back of clock face and hour hand)
H Soldering gun if soldering connections
1. I ran the new clock for 24 hours verifying accuracy. Michael's clock front bezel and final result:
Bezel (not used):___Final result:
Clock card from Michael's:
The existing clock can be taken out through the heater fascia panel or glove box. Thread on removal:
Also see clock threads listed below. I went through the heater panel as it was already open for other work. Per these clock threads some 240Z clocks have a bracket for mounting, mine doesn't seem to have a bracket. My clock was held on with an 8MM bolt that is also a phillips head. I had to use a nut driver for more leverage.
2. On back of the clock I removed the three small nuts. I also removed the 2 screws that hold the two clock halves together. I cut the wires for the motor off the back of the clock.
3. I pulled off the Z clock hands but had to gently use a small screwdriver from the side to persuade them to come off. Screwdrivers can be covered with tape to prevent scratches. Inadvertent scratches can be marked out with a black marks a lot.
4. I covered the 240Z clock face with a ziploc bag I cut a slit in to go around the center hole by taping it on both sides of the thin aluminum face to protect it though thin cardboard might have been better protection however I didn't damage anything. I did not tape directly to the front of the clock face to avoid marks. After removing the hour hand from the 240Z clock to prepare it for re-use I taped the front of it to a piece of cardboard to expose the raised edge to discourage it from taking off while using the bench grinder on it. I ground the raised edge flush on the back of the face and the back of the hour hand. The minute hand didn't need modification.
Front view:............................Raised edges on back to be ground off:
5. I epoxied the new clock movement around its edges onto the back of the face making sure to get the post for the hands centered in the hole on the face. Epoxy wanted to let the new movement slide out of position so I re-centered it a few times as it dried.
6. I wanted to re-use the 240Z hands but they have mounting holes that are too big to fit tightly on the new movement so I epoxied the 240Z clock hands on top of the hands on the new movement from Michael's. To make that possible I cut off about 1/4 inch of the minute hand on the new movement as it was too long and would have been been seen sticking out from under the end of the stock 240Z minute hand.
On both hands on the new movement I ground off part of the sides of the arrow on the ends of the hands as they were wider than the width of the 240Z hands and again would have been visible once the clock was placed into operation. I had to be careful here as the new hands are thin aluminum.
7. For the battery connection I could have wrapped wires onto the existing battery holder which would have been much easier than what I did. An idea here would be to wedge the wires in the battery compartment with a wooden dowel cut to the size of an AAA battery and maybe glued in. Another idea might be to solder the wires to a small piece of flat copper with the flat copper wedged in between the battery connections and the wooden dowel. See * below for how I did the connection to the circuit board.
8. I pressed on the hour hand from the new movement that had been prepared to be physically smaller so it would hide under the 240Z hour hand. Next I epoxied the 240Z hour hand that had had the raised edge removed on top of it. The edge would have raised the hour hand to a height to where it would not have cleared the minute hand I was about to install. The 240Z hour hand wanted to slide off center so I had to recheck it periodically as the glue dried. Five minute epoxy might have worked better.
9. To install the minute hand from the new movement I put it over the already glued on hour hand to check for clearance, I needed to bend the minute hand up and over the hour hand assembly using tweezers for the bending. I applied epoxy to the 240Z minute hand with a toothpick to make sure I didn't get too much that might flow into the second hand mount point (not used) in the center of the new clock post to avoid having it bind. After gluing the stock 240Z minute hand I had to recheck it periodically as the epoxy was setting to check for centering and to make sure it was sitting flat with respect to the face. I put a toothpick across and on top of the minute hand at the post it was on with a small weight on the toothpick with a spoon to hold up one end of the toothpick with the idea of keeping the minute hand flat and centered on the post so it would look right.
10. For the time setting function I put a small dab of glue gun glue on the end of the set knob next to the minute hand (a thread mentions using a glue gun). This was to make the set knob reach further when pushed in to contact the 240Z minute hand that was glued on top of the new movement minute hand. I made sure to get the glue down in the slot at the end of the setting knob to secure the glue better. Too much glue can be trimmed with an ordinary finger nail clipper. I think the end of the glue dab needs to be fairly flat. Not enough glue and the set knob when pushed in won't contact the minute hand making setting the time impossible, too much glue and the knob will bind the minute hand possibly stopping operation of the clock. One other thing I did to further secure the glue dab was to take a toothpick and apply a very tiny amount of epoxy to the junction between the dab and the set knob. I used jeweler's magnifying glasses to make sure I didn't glue the set knob so it wouldn't push in.
11. The end result is that the clock looks great installed in the car and is keeping good time.
Here are threads on fixing Z clocks:
Zclocks good quality:
Keep hands from new clock:
Getting clock out thru glove box (tends to destroy glove box) or heater panel:
Different kinds of clocks described-motor type-pendulum type:
Fixing electric circuit type clocks:
Replace with desktop auto car parts store clock -orange face:
Replacing capacitors on clocks that use them sometimes helps:
Zclocks and Auto Meter clocks discussed:
Clock runs when car runs but then quits a few days after car is parked:
Changing out mechanical movement to quartz discussed, radio shack 12 volt to 1.5 volt regulator mentioned:
Oiling original mechanical clock sometimes works sometimes doesn't:
* I tried to solder to the connections in the battery holder but the solder would not stick. To solder directly to the circuit board I took the movement apart by unscrewing a screw and unsnapping the two plastic latches on the sides. I soldered the new battery wires directly to the circuit board where the existing battery holder connects VIA a spring like action by two prongs (The prongs aren't soldered). I scraped off the two circuit board "pads" with a pocket knife where the two springlike prongs connected and got down to a copper colored metal which my solder gun could solder to. The wires I used are very small 30 gauge, they need to be to make for easy soldering to the small pads and to make it easy to get them to pass out of the movement though a small hole could be drilled in the plastic case of the movement for the wires. I personally feel taking the movement apart and getting it back together properly was not particularly easy as there were several very small plastic gears that kept falling off and I had to remember where they went.
12. **** How to get rid of the AA battery: ****
Schematics below include the 320 ohm resistor needed for quartz clock per spec sheet for minimum load of 4 mA. Be sure to adjust the 5K pot for 1.5V out before connecting clock.
Anyone looking for window stickers mgood can make you just about any year you are looking for and he does a great job and looks just like the originals.
Just had one done for my 1973 and it was just what I was looking for and he will laminate if you want, very fast service too.
Thanks again Michael great service...
BE SURE TO SAVE THE FOLLOWING ZIP FILE PICTURE FOR PRINTING NOT THE ONE VISIBLE ON THE SCREEN (keeps DPI correct to print to original size):
clock face 240Z series 1 scan cleaned.jpg.zip
For viewing but not for printing:
The attached .ZIP file clock face is a scan of a 240Z series 1 clock. The original clock face was removed from the clock and placed on a scanner so there should be no perspective distortion. It could be printed out for a creative project if someone were so inclined and placed on a desk top clock face (might need white hands?) to make the clock look like a 240Z series 1 clock. To do this you could pull the hands off or possibly point all the hands in the same direction and feed the printed face over the desk top clock hands through a hole cut in the middle if one of the hands doesn't stick out in both directions from the post for the hands. Another option is to use a razor blade to cut a slit from the middle to one edge and make a small hole in the middle for the post the desk top clock hands are on. Usually it will look better if printed on photo paper.
To print this the same size as the original clock face select 100% scale in print preview and don't change the resolution from the 600 DPI the .ZIP file image is currently set to. Note that the scan here includes the four curved slots that allowed light through from inside the clock for the night time light for the clock, these curved slots would not normally be seen when the clock is installed in the vehicle and may be cut off.
To change the printout size change the DPI or resolution as it is also called in your print preview. To make the printed face half as big as the original clock face change the DPI to 1200, to double the size change it to 300 DPI.
Hi everyone, I am a new member and was wondering can some help me out with my problem. I have a 1983 280ZX coupe with 239,000 miles. I have a moderate stage II cam and great compression on all cylinders. The problem I am having is that while driving the car during acceleration or normal level driving the car wants to stall and hesitate. I can push in the clutch, rev the engine and then it corrects it self until it happens again moments later. The car runs, cranks great, and idles just fine. I have changed out the fuel regulator, fuel filter, new fuel pump, new fuel dampner, had the air-flow meter re-built, new distributor cap, rotor button, wires, and spark plugs, yet none of those things I have done has helped. I am thinking that I might have to drop the gas tank due to possible rust that might be restricting the fuel pick-up on the fuel sending unit. Can anyone give me any help with this ???
Does anyone know the whereabouts of one Isaih Taylor? Sent him funds through PayPal months ago for the exshaust he supposedly was custom building. He did respond to a blog and left a contact number,however has previously doesn't respond to e-mails and phone numbers are non-working. No product Lost Funds Not Happy Can anyone Help?
Well my original antenna just isn't cutting it anymore. I recently purchased an Harada MX 3 antenna and now see that it wants a DPDT switch and not the original SPDT switch (which basically puts +12V to go up and then reverses +12 V to do down.) Any schematics out there on how to "fool" the wiring so that I can use my original up/down switch with the new MX3 antenna? Also, I want to be able to stop my antenna and not have it go all up or all down like the modern antenna do today.
Hey, I'm a new Z owner....I inherited this car and have no idea of its value???
It seems to be in great looking condition, but it hasn't been started for probably 15 years.
Can anyone give me an approximate value of this car?