2ManyZs

I was talking about the four wheel vented disc conversion that used Wilwood 4 piston calipers and 11" rotors all around. It was about 1500 bucks for the whole set-up. Or did I see that on another site? I just went back to strictlyz and now I don't see it. Now I'm wondering where I did see it. I was sure I saw it just last month on their site, or did they discontinue it to make me think I'm losing my mind?

If you want to see a great brake upgrade check out the front and rear disc upgrade at www.strictlyz.com It isn't cheap but what a sweet set-up!!

If you can start out at 25hp and work your way up that sounds great. It would be a shame to melt down a perfectly good motor. Just have to watch the plugs to make sure you aren't running to lean on the bottle and checking the spark advance to keep it from detonating.

Darn, if it's turned into varnish I wouldn't put it in the lawnmower.

Mike, it sounds like your pump is shot. It should prime itself, it evidently will pull a siphon but won't pull the gas out of the tank. That is probably why the gas siphoned out when you unhooked it. I have one if you are interested. E-mail me and I'll tell you about it. FWIW, I have been doing business with MSA for almost 20 years and have never had a problem with anything I got from them. By the way, is this for your 280? See the price on the pumps??? OUCH!!!

Ouch! First off, if you have the stock alternator the voltage regulator should be mounted on the inner fender near the strut tower. It's a rectangular box that mounts with 2 screws down near the frame rail. Second, if the wiring harness is burned so badly that it burned wires under the dash you probably will be better off replacing the wiring harness instead of trying to unwrap it and fix what has been burned. You might end up doing it anyway since it may have melted the insulation of the wires it was bundled with. You could end up replacing one wire after another. It is quite a bit of work to do, but it could save you from making one repair after another. Check the Sale Forum here, you may be able to buy the parts you need from someone who is stripping a car. One word of caution, if your car is a 73 make sure the harness you get is for a 73 as there are quite a few differences between each year of car. Some parts can swap from one to another but others can't due to changes in the connectors. I don't know of anyone who sells new wiring harnesses, perhaps someone else does or you could look through the links pages here. Of course when you get the harness changed you should change the regulator and possibly the alternator, as something caused this to begin with.

Good lookin' ride. Are you afraid to lower it because of those famous PA potholes??? Just kidding, but it would be a shame to grind off the bottom of the air dam because of Pittsburg's roads! BTW do you do your flying before or after the expansion joints? .

Sounds interesting, but at the same time it sounds scary. Does anyone make a kit specifically for a Z?? Probably not. So you would be making educated guesses as to how far you can go. You should be able to get away with 100hp or less with little trouble. You would probably have to fit a different fuel pump with a higher volume for sure, then tinker with the timing to get it right. Detonation with nitrous can be deadly to a perfectly good piston. I know a lot of the systems even come with a fuel injector to add even more fuel to the engine to keep it from going lean on the bottle. Of course there still is the issue of compression ratio, whether or not you have too high a compression ratio to begin with. I wonder if there is anyone out there who has already done this that you could get some ideas from. I think I would be a little nervous trying this without some info on to make it work with a Z motor, unless you have an extra short block lying around to test it out on. You do realize that nitrous is addictive don't you?? To your right foot that is!!

Last time I drained old gas out of one of my cars I used it up in the lawnmower with no problem. I just took about 1/2 gallon of old gas and put it into a 5 gallon can of fresh gas. I t didn't bother tha mower and it sure beat what could have happened if one of the neighbors had called in about me dumping gas on the scrub brush along the railroad track out back. Took a while to get rid of it all but it sure beat paying a big fine!

I definately agree that if anyone is not going to build some serious HP an R-200 is probably overkill. I know the ITS racers are putting some pretty good HP numbers through their 180 rears with little or no difficulty. The weakest link then becomes the factory limited slips if they choose to run them. When they run the rears "locked" then the weak link ends up being the u-joints and the stub axles if the stub axles were never serviced. If you are interested did you know the early Nissan 4x4 pickups have the R 180 diff in the front with something like a 4:37 ratio? I think the only thing that needs to be changed is the flanges to bolt them into a 240. Something worth looking into, with a 5 speed a 4:37 would be just about the right ratio for cruising with the overdrive. You are right Royce, I believe the change over to an R-200 is probably not the best thing to do on a street car, not only from all the parts you need to change but they are an anchor. I never looked forward to taking mine out of my 280 while laying on a creeper! I know we've gotton a little off track here but at least greenz can decide how far he wants to go with his project.

I believe the later driveshaft is little longer, perhaps they recommend using the later driveshaft so that the slip yoke is more fully engaged on the output shaft of the trans. I have both driveshafts and the difference is not easy to see, you almost have to measure them. I guess if the splines weren't fully engaged you could possibly end up with a little wobble and it would give the driveshaft a bit of a vibration. Of course if the stock driveshaft works the point would be moot, most people aren't going to thrash a street car enough to notice. I wish I had access to a junkyard that had more older model Z's. It would make for it easier to try different things to see how they work. I'd like to find a diff out of the later model 200sx turbo, as they have a limited slip and I believe about a 3.9 or 4.11 ratio. There weren't a lot of those cars on the street so finding one in a junkyard is not going to be easy. Of course if greenz is going to an R-200 the longer driveshaft would already have the right yoke to bolt right up to the driveshaft. Then all he would have to do is change the mustache bar and the lower suspension crossmember to clear the larger R-200.

I stand corrected. Everything I ever read said when swapping to the 5 speed you needed the driveshaft from the donor car, but if it works without it that's even better. Maybe I shouldn't believe everything I read until I try it, I hadn't done a 5 speed swap into a 240 yet, I have the 240 in pieces so it doesn't need the 5 speed yet. I guess now I will have an extra 280 driveshaft I don't really need.

On the passenger side of the block there is a Y in the transfer line going from the front of the engine to the heater. Take the line off the Y that runs from there around the back of the head (I think it has a clip that bolts on to one of the bellhousing bolts) and unhook it from the back of the intake. You can use a short piece of hose with a bolt in it and clamp it securely or you could put a straight piece of tubing in to do away with the Y. The water returns to the thermostat housing (near the bottom I think) with a very short piece of formed hose. Unhook it and you can use a pipe plug to plug it at the housing, be careful trying to get the hose nipple out, if it won't come out you could use the hose with a bolt in it there. You can plug the ends of the intake with pipe plugs after you get the hose nipples out. You might want to blow out any water out of the intake before you pug it off. If it lays in there long enough it could corrode. I would drain out as much of the block and radaitor before you start doing this as it may be a little messy. Take the bottom radiator hose off the pump to get as much out as you can. Refill the radiator and check for leaks. If this doesn't help the next place you could look is whether your fan clutch is working properly.

Oops, I forgot the zx's. The trans from the 79-83zx will work, just don't get the T-5 trans, you will end up with a lot more work. The yoke should be easy enough to remove, you might check it before you take it off to see if it bolts up to the driveshaft. I don't think the 240 yokes and the 280 yoke are the same, the flange is a little different. All you will need is a socket to fit the pinion nut. If you get the 5 speed and the driveshaft to go with it you will need a yoke off an R-200 from the other car. Of course if you just wanted to put another 4 speed in you won't have to do this. You could look in the For Sale here on the site, you might be able to find another 4 speed to use until you get all the parts together to do a 5 speed swap. A 4 speed should be pretty easy to find, it's the 5 speeds that are a little harder to get since everyone wants to put them in their 240's.

Any four speed should work, the only difference is the shifter linkage. The B model transmission is a little better (stronger), the shifter linkage was changed in about 72 to the B model. One difference is the gear ratio between the 240 B model and the 280 B model. I'd have to look it up but I can give you the gear ratios if you like. The 5 speed would require a little work if you want to go with that. You would need the 280 driveshaft and you would have to change the yoke on the rear.

I see no reason why it wouldn't be a good choice, although I have not seen one done in a Z-car yet. I'm not sure why though. I would be interested in finding out if anyone has done it and what it takes to do the swap.

Sonic, If you have air bubbles in the fuel filter you may have a problem with your electric fuel pump, of course I'm assuming since yours is a 73 that you do have one. All the 73's were recalled to have one installed so yours should have one. Have someone check the output pressure on it with a fuel pressure gauge to start with. I don't remember exactly but I think it should be around 8 pounds. I don't have a service manual here for a 73 so I can't be sure, maybe someone else has one and they can post it for sure. You might also do a visual inspection of the fuel lines to see if the are crimped anywhere, the metal line under car may have been hit at one time or another. As far as the sputtering under load, is your timing set correctly and is your vacuum advance working right? These would be two of the places I would look first. Of course there are quite a few other things that could be causing it but if these don't help cure the problem then you can at least rule out two things, by then there should be quite a few more postings with more things to check.

I had mine plugged off for as long as I owned my 73, the only thing was I had to run with the chokes on a little longer in cold weather. One of the "big" things now days is cold air intakes right? Well it makes sense not to heat the intake with warm or hot water, it just heats the air going to the engine too. Z cars were notoriously cold blooded and only got worse with the added smog equipment so this is one of the main reasons it is there. Try blocking it off and see what happens. It can't hurt, but it may help.

Well, this one is beyond me. It is a shame there is no one with the resources like Galen Govier has with Mopar, to have factory build notes and the like on Datsuns. This one would be the kind of thing that would make their life interesting. I hope someone like Carl Beck can figure this out, because I don't have a clue now. P.S. Yes, it's possible to have 2 many Z's. I built a two car garage for the two I had then bought two more cars, guess I'll have to add some more space to the garage.

In case of the worst, yes the tanks should interchange. I believe the tank will interchange with any Z up to a 280z but not the 77 or 78 models. Anything up to 76 should work. But since it only leaks when it is over half full it will probably be either a vent hose or filler hose. Be sure to check them all carefully, if you have to change one you may need to change the others as they all get hard and brittle. The worst thing that can happen is the long one that goes to the drivers side rear of tank will leak sometimes onto the exhaust or close to it, this happened to me as I filled up once, it is not something I want to have happen again.You can change all of the hose without dropping the tank out all the way, just loosed the straps and let it down as far as you can without taking the straps loose but be sure to have the tank as close to empty as possible, or use the drain and drain it completely.

Do you still have water running to the carbs? It is possible that while sitting still it is trying to vapor lock, sometimes the water control valve will keep water going to the carbs after the engine is up to temp and will overheat the intake. If you still have the crossover line hooked up to the intake try blocking it off and see what it does. If you put the early carbs on the original intake you probably still have it hooked up. I'd also check your fuel pump and filter while you are under the hood along with what everyone else has said.

In my case and evidently in his the switch contact were worn, the barrel of the switch gets worn out, and what happened is it wasn't cutting off the ignition currant. It was as if the key was still in the run position. When you are dealing with cars as old as these weird things are bound to happen, at least they are still simple enough for most anyone to fix, sometimes it just takes a little time to find the cause.

I used to get that too, that's one of the reasons I didn't marry her!! Also got it from my father when I started building an ITS car in the back yard in 89, but he sure did go to every race when I got through with drivers schools.

What they mean by the tool sorage being moved to the deck pockets is this, if you have carpet that is split for the deck, and you pick it up and find two doors in the deck. They are small cubby holes in what was empty space on the series 1 cars. There is one thing I didn't see in Carl's list, and that is the gas door being one that has a latch on the series 1's while the series 2's don't! Please be sure to check out your Vin numbers carefully, we may find the solution yet.

That HAD to hurt!!!!