2ManyZs

I have all the old issues of Z-car magazine except for one. I'll look through the pile and see if I can find out anything. I'll try to post something tomorrow on what it said.

Most people go for the 5 speed swap when they plan on changing the rear end ratio to something quite a bit lower than the stock 3:36. The fourth gear ratios of the 4 and 5 speeds are 1:1, and fifth is around .86:1 I believe. So, if you think you might want to go for the rear end swap in the future you might want to go ahead with the tranny swap now, if it's already apart you won't have to pull it later. The biggest benefit of swapping the 5 speed is with a lower rear gear you get quicker acceleration in the first 4 and have overdrive to cruise on the highway. It's isn't the most difficult swap so if you are so inclined go ahead and do it. But with the stock rear it is going to be a bit sluggish in fifth gear. Your final drive ratio would besomewhere between 2.90:1 and 3:10:1 in fifth ( I'm just guessing, I'd have to find the formula to figure it out exactly) so there is my 2 cents worth.

Yep, that is one of the biggest problems with a Z-car. There isn't a seam on any car that is sealed. The reason? SPOT WELDS. Ever really look at your car? Ever open the hood and look down the inner fender at the weld flange on the frame rails? Notice how many waves and gaps that are there? Guess what goes into those gaps. Yup, water and dirt. I doubt if there has ever been a frame rail that truly rusted through from the outside. They always rust out from the inside out! Rocker panels, quarter panels they all rust from the inside out. By the time you start to see the rust on the outside the little "metal maggots" have got a big head start on turning your car into junk. What to do about it? Well, since it's not likely anyone is going to completely dissasemble their car, clean every nook and cranny, then butt weld every panel back together. The only solution is to try to get as much of the crap out using whatever means you can think of, (however EScanlon's idea sounds pretty ingenious) and after letting it sit to dry for a couple days invest in a little seam sealer. It isn't expensive, it's easy to use and best of all it might just keep your car from becoming a rust bucket parts car before the really nice paint job you just spent so much time and money on starts to lose a little of its shine.

What about building small speaker boxes in place of the kick panels under the dash? Could easily be done with a little bit of plywood and you won't have to cut anything up. You might lose a little leg room but they shouldn't have to stick out too far, of course it all depends on the size speaker you choose. Just my thoughts.....

Eastwood's also has a tank re-sealer kit that is quite inexpensive, but you will have to buy acid at the hardware store to use with the kit. Hopefully you can find someone to repair yours or find anothe one in a junkyard somewhere of off someones parts car they may be selling here in the For Sale forum. They are one of those parts that the aftermarket sometimes has and sometimes can't get. I would say you should be able to pick up one pretty cheap off a parts car that may be in better shape so check out the For Sale forum. Only one problem with a fuel cell is the price. By the time you buy a 16 gallon cell (or something close to 16) and buy a fuel sending unit and get it all hooked up you will be looking at a significant investment. Over $500 easily, so if you don't want to spend that much try to find a used one or possibly try to have yours fixed. You could check the web-links area to double check if any new ones are available, but they will probably cost in the 500 or so category.

Franklin, if you don't mind a little advice from someone who's already been there, done that. If you decide to get into any kind of racing and do it seriously (read many modifications to the car) I strongly urge you to look at cars that are already built. If you start with one that has the basics you can add your own touches later. I spent twice as much building an ITS car from a car I had than what I could have bought a decent one already to go. Just something to think about.....

We learned the way you are, by asking people who have done it already. Why? So WE didn't make the same mistakes THEY made when THEY were trying to figure it out. One of the first rules of mechanics in my opinion. BTW, I would have to agree with Daniel on his point about the one advantage of having points instead of electronic. Unless it is a dual point like what was in the later cars and the automatics, they were a major PITA! The early distributors were the best by far. If and when I ever get to the engine on mine I am going to give the electronic ignition unit in the old distributor a try. It's been in my drawer out there for 5 or 6 years, might as well use it. I think mine is the Crane set-up from MSA. It's been so long since I was in that drawer I don't even remember what kind I have.

I can't answer question number one. I know they are a countersunk head but what size? I'd have to go dig thru all the jars of nuts and bolts and find the ones out of mine. Anyone else?? 2. I bought the speaker panel from MSA to put 6x9's in the back of mine so that I didn't have to cut any panels. It is a bit expensive to buy one, unless you are better at wood working than I am ( I can't saw a board straight with a table saw) it wouldn't be too hard to make something out of plywood so that you don't have to cut up the car. 3. Yes they had the ventilation holes in the backrest, I think there are 6 if I remember right. 4. Try to adjust the striker plate on the door post, they have a little adjustment built into them, if that doesn't help try the latch on the door itself. It may be rusted or just full of crud. A little WD40 on that and a little adjustment may be all you need. Try to loosen the bolts on the striker just a very little bit, then close your door. Then open the door easily and tighten the plate back up. It may put itself into alignment that way. 5. The decklid may take a little work. I would say to check the rubber bumpers on each side to make sure one of them isn't missing, then you should be able to loosen the hinge bolts (again, only very slightly) and close your hatch. See if you can move it into alignment, then carefully raise the hatch enough to tighten the bolts back up. This may take a few tries, especially if you are by yourself, or lossened the bolts just alittle too much.

I have used the Motorsport springs and the Suspension Techniques. They are both quite stiff, especially when you combine them with stiffer sway bars. If ride is an issue you might want to look into the Eibach progressive rate springs. They are a little more expensive, but may give you a better ride on the street if you go with stiffer bars. They all usually lower the car about the same amount but your ride will suffer. I am planning on the progrssive springs for my 71 since it is going to be a street car, I just want it a little lower, and I may leave the sway bar in the front alone and go without the rear bar. I don't think there is much difference in the spring rates between the springs you mentioned.

I'm just taking this off the top of my head, but I think it should be in the 170-180psi range. I can't seem to find it in my pile of books right now, but I think I'm pretty close. Hard to say about one with 93,00 miles. Could be in the 140's or 150's. I think if it would be much lower you would be looking at a ring job. Anyone else that can find what I can't seem to??

Franklin, Which class are you planning on running?? There are so many and the prep rules so broad we would need to know which class you want to run. There are quite a few auto xr's here but just need to know what mods you plan on doing, if any.

I don't know about anyone else, but after reading Alphadog's I want to sit down and cry. Oh, to be 17 again. And have a 70 240z as my first car!!

I hope you let us know, I will need to know how it is done when I get the motor back in my 71. BTW Royce, I had my faux-pas with the LSD slip-up the other day, so none of us are perfect. Darn it!! I knew I had heard it could be done, but unfortunately I have never seen or heard exactly how it is done. Unless I want to go through the old try it and if it doesn't work, try something else.

Bill, I asked that question a few weeks ago. I guess we just live in the wrong place. Or maybe we need to get a few of them and bring them back east! Between that car and that darn 280 convertible conversion, I'd almost be tempted to take a trip out west. I guess when I was driving over the road I should have found a way to get "lost" with an empty trailer.:tapemouth

Might as well let people know who the "the mouth of the south" is. My name is Keith. I just hit the big 4-0, never been married, no kids (yes, I'm quite sure of that) and have one very spoiled Sussex Spaniel as my favorite companion. I bought my first Z-car about 1982 or 83 (a while ago), it was a 73 240 that I sold to a friend of mine who raced it in ITS will he totalled it. I bought his wife's old 1975 280 in 87 and started racing it in ITS in 89. I retired the car in 94 when my father was diagnosed with cancer and haven't raced since he passed away in 95. He always said I had too d--n many Z's around here so hence my username. Right now I have a 1971 series 1 that I am restoring, and I still have my old 280 sitting here. I also have a 72 240 ITS car (wrecked, but may be fixable) and a 72 240 parts car. I think I still have an old 76 280 out in the woods behind a friends house I bought for parts too. So I guess that means I have had 8 Z-cars total and still have 5, more or less. I drive tractor trailer for a US mail contractor, and have driven in 39 states and 2 provinces of Canada in the last 18 years. My daily driver is a 2001 Dodge Ram 2500. What else would a truck driver have but a diesel?

Sounds like it might be worth a second look. Unless it is difficult to register a car with a salvage title in Ca. I know in Va. sometimes the DMV can give you a run-around trying to re-register a car.

She would probably "cost" a lot more in the long run. But I think I'm on your side. Maybe if they hadn't put those triangular lights on it would look a lot better.

I've got a 72 that looks a lot worse than that. Wanna trade?? Just kidding, at least you have something to start with!

Me thinks the price has gone up too much. Guess I'll forget that idea, unless I can get that box from a scrapyard in the UK! I'd rather have used ones, than to pay that much for new ones.:tapemouth

Oops, forgot your mileage question. 20 mpg would be right around average, everything depends on your driving style, car mods if any and where you drive. I have had cars that got 24 with no problem, and one that could never get 20.

A 240 tank holds 16 gallons. The later 280 tanks hold 16.7 gallons, but they won't fit a 240. Of course you may be able to squeeze in a couple more tenths in the filler neck but figure 16 as your baseline.

Probably the best feedback you can get would be at www.hybridz.com These are guys that do nothing but V-8 conversions in Z-cars. Yes, MSA has a kit but it's not the only one out there. Jags That Run has a kit which seems to get all the accolades. Just thought you might want to check it out to get the best responses.

The series 1's have the vents on the hatch lid instead of on the C-pillar, that is the most easily identifying difference. There are quite a few others, the tool storage is behind the seats instead of in the rear floor, small differences in the center console to name a couple more. If you look for the thread What year do I have and what emblems do I need, you will find a full list of the differences. I'm partial to the early cars too, just want one "topless". This car might need more than a couple hundred to get going, if it was really donated to a charity it may need quite a bit of mechanical work before it is road ready. So be sure to check it over carefully before you make your final decision. I'm not trying to scare you away from the car, just be prepared for most anything. If your dad has had Z-cars make sure he looks it over good for any "hidden" surprises. There can be quite a few. Good luck.

I just went to ebay and saw the 280 convertible. If you want a nice car that doesn't need too much work you might want to look into that one. If I lived in So.Cal I know I'd love to have that one. I've been thinking about doing a convertible kit for years! The only problem is not having a top, but the people that make that kit have a removable fiberglass hardtop that isn't too expensive. Just something for you to think about. That convertible was on there back in December I think, it evidently didn't sell. If I had a way to get it here then it probably would be in my garage.

I saw the car you are talking about. If the price doesn't get too high it looks like a good deal. Main thing is check the floor pans, frame rails, inner fenders behind the front struts, under the battery tray on the fender and inside the hatch above the taillights for any evidence of serious rust or repairs. It looks like a car that might be worth saving since it is a series 1 car. They are getting quite scarce, since they only made them up to about December 71. The blue stripe on the hood is definately added on. The interior is also not stock. I think only black and tan were available on the series 1 cars. Perhaps someone has recovered the seats and door panels in blue. It might take a considerable investment in time and money to make this car right, but if the selling price stays within reason it could turn out to be a good investment. I don't think I would go much more than 2500 unless it turns out the car is in really in better shape than it looks in the pics. If you are on a limited budget this car may need more body work than your budget allows. There are some better looking cars for more money, but will require a lot less time and money. I guess you will have to decide how big a project you can take on.